PirateFins

I started having a vibration out of no where the other day and it kept getting worse, so I parked the truck. Looked at the drive shaft and I definitly need new u-joints because the front (by the trans case) is toast. Might as well replace them all. Took some spray paint and marked the entire setup before I removed it so nothing gets put back wrong.

While I had it up I decided to look at my fluids, pulled the rear diff fill plug and . Foaming chocolate milk comes dripping out. So I proceded to drain the rear diff. I have left the plugs out to let all off that crap come out. I put a magnet through the fluid and there wasn't any sizable metal pieces, just shavings like would be expected.
How should I go about cleaning this thing out without dis-assembling the entire pumpkin? I sprayed a can of cleaner in the fill plug hole while rotating the tires to clean some out but I know there is more in there. Give me some suggestions. If I fill it up with some cheapo brand gear oil and run it, drain it, and fill with good stuff, will that do a good enough job of cleaning it out?

Also I am concerned as to how the water got in there to begin with. I haven't done any water crossings or anything for that matter since I changed the fluid last. I have driven through some heavy rains, which left alot of water on the road. Could that have caused it. Should I extend and clean the breather? My axel seals are not leaking out, could they be leaking in with out leaking out?

thanks

jimbo74

chocolate milk... sounds like classic oil in the water....

it would be a good idea to extend the breather, however i have heard that although many people use the regular vent, that on extended this is bad becasue the vent acts differntly on top of the axle as it would on a 3 foot long pice of tubing.... an open air fliter would be better as long as it is high up..... www.4crawler.com has a good write-up

Ironmike4x4

You can just take the cover off and spray brake clean all inside then replace the gasket on the cover then bolt it on. Do the diff breather mod, add synthetic gear lube and hit the road.

PirateFins

How hard is it to remove the cover? Is it just unbolt and pull? Or is there something else that needs to be taken off, so it can pull out? I read in another post about removing the axles in order to pull the 3rd out?

jimbo74

yup the axles need to be removed... or at least pulled out partially and supported...

Albuquerque Jim

No offense: Have you ever looked a Toyota Rear End? There is no diff cover like a Dana product. You have to completely remove both axles and the 3rd member to "get inside" the housing.

I am not going to theorize how the water go in there. To remove it I suggest removing both axles and the 3rd member to flush out the contaminated lube.

Sorry, it's not easy, but it will save your diff unless it's already damaged. If you are replacing the U joints then it's just the axles (4 nuts, brakes cable and brake line) and a ring of bolts around the 3rd member.

Good luck!

PirateFins

Thanks Jim. I will be removing the axles and third this weekend and cleaning it out. Any suggestions on what to clean it with? Or will a case of brake clean and a bottle of tylenol for the fumes take care of it?

Also I don't want to start another thread for this so if you guys read this. How in the name of Sam, do you remove the u-joints from the Double Cardan joint? Any tricks tips advise. I searched here, the Wire and red up some tech but no one really talks about it, they touch on standard u-joints. Which I have apart already, but that double cardan looks like it is going to be fun.

Albuquerque Jim

Sounds good to clean it out. Sorry don't know about the joint though. I'd probably take it to someone.

PirateFins

Ok I got the double cardan joint apart. It actually was easier than it looked, and the u-joints were in better shape so they came out easier then the destroyed ones.

Back to the diff. I talked to the local trusted (by several neighbors) mom and pop lube place. This is not a chain but an independant. They said they can do a flush on the diff for me, and while they are at it will do all of the other drive system components while they are at it (transmission, transfer, front diff). He said they hook it up to a machine with the wheels off the ground and run clean fluid through everything while running the truck. So everything is moving and being flushed with new clean fluid. All for the low price of $75. He said to put some fluid in the diff when I am ready and drive it up about 1 mile from my house. I reminded him I had a manual and he said no problem (do it all off the time).
Does it sound like it will work. Flush the systems and new fluid (of my choice), for $75?
I need to get this thing back on the road. If I blow up the 3rd then I can get a set new gears approved from the boss (wife), and if it works then it was $75 well spent.

Ironmike4x4

Thanks for pointing out my stupidity I've done plenty of work under my own 4Runner and have not actually noticed it. I was thinking of the GM axles and not Toyota. Sorry to mislead anyone. Again thanks for correcting me.

Albuquerque Jim

No biggie, I just didn't want Pirate to go looking for a cover and there is no cover.

Pirate: that sounds like a good deal. Although, I would certainly have the diff lube changed again in like 100 miles or so, just to be safe.

DrummerDaveB

What if he were to put some Kerosene in there, put the plug back in, and just turn the wheels a bit.
That might circulate around a bit and clean out the crap, then drain the kerosene, and refill?
Just an idea.

bamachem

dude, just refill w/ cheap stuff and drive it a few miles, then drain and refill again w/ some good stuff. that will get 99.9% of the water out of there.

CynicX

thats what i'd do....