jmnees

I have a 93 T100 4WD with 105k miles that’s having some serious problems. The CV boots on both sides are torn and I have an oil leak(s). I really need some advice on how to best approach these repairs, I thought this might be the place to ask some questions.

CV Joints
I never checked the CV boots when I bought this truck (didn’t know to at the time), I imagine the boots were probably torn when I bought it at 81k miles. Here are my questions:

1. Is it best to replace the entire axle assemblies and not just the CV joints? I was told that buying new axle assemblies would be best long term since both sides have been exposed to the elements, even though only the driver side is currently in question.
2. Would there be any cost savings in having the ADD switched to locking hubs?
3. The dealership of course says to use only OEM axles. Is an axle an axle or should I look for a specific manufacturer?
4. What type of number am I looking at? I have quotes for axle replacement from $625 at an independent shop up to $1,400 from a Toyota dealership.

Oil leak
The truck had both head gaskets replaced by a Toyota dealership at 81k miles, less than 25k miles later and 13k miles out of warranty, I have an oil leak. A local shop used some die and took a look. They told me it appears to be leaking in several places; valve covers, plenum, oil pan, rear cam seals, and possibly rear main seal. Here are my questions:

1. Any common oil leak issues I should know about with the 3.0L? I was told that the rear cam seal failing was a common problem with this engine. I’m painfully aware of the head gasket issue, but never heard of any issues with the cam seals or common oil leaks.
2. I realize that oil leaks can be difficult to diagnose. If I have to go with the process of elimination, where would be the best place to start?


Any help would be appreciated, I'm not ready to let my truck go.

Greasygreg

If it were my truck, I'd replace both axleshafts with aftermarket ones(myself)and call that job done.Its not a hard job,but depends on your mechanical abilities.As far as the oil leaks go on your 3.0,valve covers arent hard,so start with them since their on top and oil leaks go down. Then try some stop leak and a good de-greasing ,then look underneath after a days drive and see how bad the other leaks really are

mt_goat

My 3.0 went 116,000 miles over 13 years and never leaked a drop of oil., so I'd say no.

If the cv boots have been leaking for a while I'd be worried about there being dirt inside now. So I guess I'd replace the whole thing or make that decision after it's apart and see how it looks.

mt_goat

Saving as far as fuel economy, not noticable in my case. Savings as far as less cv repairs could be significant in the long run.

paxil4x4

My suggestion for the oil leak find another shop or do it yourself. Any shop who leaves open guesses to where an oil leak can be coming from without pressure washing the motor, and then looking for the leak is not a shop worth giving business to.

Froggy93

If your going to do the valve cover gaskets yourself, make sure you order upper intake gaskets when you get the valve cover gaskets. The upper intake has to be removed to pull the pass. side valve cover off. AS far as your cv boots go, I would replace the whole shaft since you don't know how long they have been torn. i just replaced my cv boots today and it wasn't that hard. however, rust makes everything a pain in the butt. If you do decide to do them yourself, make sure the sway bar end links aren't rusted too bad. i had to remove the link to get the axle out and I am pretty sure you will to. Mine snapped when I tried to unbolt it so be ready to replace those as well. I work at a toyota dealer so I had access to a lift, factory manuals, and compressed air which made pulling the bolts off easier as well as snapping sway bar end links easier As far as oil leaks go, my truck has a slight valve cover leak but is otherwise bone dry.

Toy-SkiTzo

when doing the valve cover gasket make shur you take some pics befor. that way if you forget where somthing goes you have somthing to look at

bruzer

Like everyone else has said, replace the entire half shaft assembly. This way you know that everything is good, and it's alot easier than trying to rebuild the one's you have, and the headache isn't as bad either.
As far as your oil leaks are concerned, I would also have to agree with the valve cover's, and hopefully it's not the rear main seal. That's the problem with mine right now, and I much rather just add a quart of oil every-other week instead of dishing out a ton of money just because it leaks a little (but thats just me).
The manual hubs are nice, but I didn't see any noticable gain in my MPG's.
And like mt_goat stated, there may be less cv repairs in the long run. I would have to agree with that do to the fact that there not spinning all the time. One other benifit to the manual hub is that if you break something in your front drive train like a cv-joint, ring or pinion gears, ect.., all you have to do is unlock your hubs, take it out of 4wheel drive, and drive home. With out that option you may end up stuck on the trail tearing your rig apart, just to make it so you can drive it home with out everything binding up on you.
Anyways, good luck with the oil leaks, they can be a pain in the a$$.

t100

i had to replace my entire assembly.. cost bout 5 bills for both.. i would take it to a good mechanic or do it myself..

jmnees

I had both axle assemblies and the oil pan gasket replaced. The oil pan was where the majority of the oil was coming from, the other leaks are pretty small. The mechanic recommended pennzoil high mileage oil, he's had success stopping small leaks within a couple of oil changes. If nothing else I'm hoping it buys me some time.

Thanks for all the advice.