When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I've been trying to get my trailer lights working properly, but to no avail.
I've been messing with a few things, but I'm pretty sure its vehicle side.
I've been using a test light on the 4-way connector, getting a light from running lights(brown) and turn signal lights on left(yellow) and green(right), but get no light from either yellow or green when checking brake lights.
We hooked up another vehicle and got brake lights on the trailer, but not with my vehicle. I also checked all the fuses I could think of.
SO......whats my next step?
Is there some hidden fuse for the towing package for an 87 4runner?
I've also heard of a converter box that's hidden away some where, but no idea where to check to find this thing?
If anyone could provide any insight on the issue, or any of the questions I'm pondering then it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
look for the converter box (it converts the toyota separate brake/tail(red) & turn (amber)signal to the single tail light system used on trailers.
Sometimes tucked into the rear corner near the brake light housing on either side or taped/zipped tied to the hitch area.
to be honest I wasn't aware of a factory tow 'package' back then. When i bought my 86 4runner new off the lot, there was no suck animal.
How long have you had this truck? my guess is you are dealing with some previous owner's hack job wiring. You need to pull the tail light housing and start tracing wires/
Find the brake light, tail light and turn signal wires and also the ground.
if some genious used these idiotic wire splice hacks you probably have wires that have been pulled out or just plain cut.
Now if you find that you have a powered trailer taillight converter it is possible you have a blown fuse.
So it would appear there was never a converter kit, and instead this thing was just hacked. At least this little plastic pieces look like the picture you posted. From this point I haven't a clue as to what to do. I found the brake wire going to each light down both sides of the vehicle. It's green & white. Here are some pictures of the back of each housing, from here I really haven't a clue.
This is the left side, you can see that the sections coming from the break bulb have been soldered
Remove the wire splices and solder, heat shrink, and wrap electrical tape around your repairs.
I worked on an 88 pickup that had a wiring kit installed on it and it did have Toyota labels on it. First one I have ever seen. It was junk and basically was spliced into the wiring as your picture. I am guessing it was a dealer installed item.
The white/black wire is the ground. Underneath that tape, is a factory crimp that Toyota used. I also repair that the same way. Another poor design of Toyota.
I got my tail light conversion kit. I do alot of pulling. Its PN# 43315. I get mine at Oriellys. I am sure other stores can get it. All plug and play other then mounting the ground wire.
I'm sorry but I haven't really an idea as where to begin after removing the splices. Do I reconnect the wires? Or is there something in particular I need to rewire in there. Each side appears to have wires running to different areas on each light. I'm assuming the conversion kit would then have pretty forward instructions as to what needs to be done.
I should only have to connect to a brake light on one side when it comes to the conversion kit correct?
Thanks for the help so far
I would remove the blue wire splices. They cut into the wire and connect the wire that the previous owner was wanting to apply power to the wire to the component that they are wanting to power up. From your picture, the brown wire is most likely the added wire that did not come from the factory. You will need to see where it goes to which is most likely the wire to the trailer towing lights. Those splices tend to get wet and corrode and do damage to the wiring.
If it did not cut the wire the wire in two, you could just wrap it good with electrical tape. If you come across a cut wire, it would be best to strip the wire on both ends and then solder, heat shrink and then wrap with electrical tape.
A solder gun is cheap and with some practice on some scrap wire and watch a few Youtube videos, you will get the hang of it in no time. Other wise you could just twist the broken wire together and wrap with electrical tape. That could last for a long time or just a short period of time depending on the climate you live in and if you get the tape wrapped good. Soldering almost brings the connection to nearly as good as it was before being cut.
As far as I am aware of Toyota never used just a solid color wire. All of them will be one color with a stripe. Example like the red wire with the purple stripe showing in the picture below. You are dealing with so few wires in the tail light assembly that you really dont need to worry about getting them mixed up.
There may be two green wires in the tail light. Just make sure they are striped the same or different. One could be green with a white stripe and the other green may have a red stripe. If they are the same, they will go to the same circuit. If they have a different stripe, they go to a seperate circuit.
The white wire with the black stripe is the standard ground wire in Toyotas and you will find it everywhere. That crimp inside it is just a wire combining two wire together. They can corrode and not allow signal flow. That one I would remove the crimp and solder or at the very least cut the wire crimp out and reconnect and wrap with electrical tape.
The wiring kit is designed well. It tells you which side each plug goes to. It is male/female connectors so you cant mess it up. There is a little power box that I just zip tie to my reciever hitch. When you first connect up your trailer lights, it will take a few seconds for the trailer lights to start working. I think it is basically charging some little capacitors in side the box. It is a great system.
Your light sockets look great from the outside. I have seen some really rusted ones and yours are in great shape. Check and see if there is any corrosion or rust where the bulb sets in the socket.
I would remove the blue wire splices. They cut into the wire and connect the wire that the previous owner was wanting to apply power to the wire to the component that they are wanting to power up. From your picture, the brown wire is most likely the added wire that did not come from the factory. You will need to see where it goes to which is most likely the wire to the trailer towing lights. Those splices tend to get wet and corrode and do damage to the wiring.
If it did not cut the wire the wire in two, you could just wrap it good with electrical tape. If you come across a cut wire, it would be best to strip the wire on both ends and then solder, heat shrink and then wrap with electrical tape.
A solder gun is cheap and with some practice on some scrap wire and watch a few Youtube videos, you will get the hang of it in no time. Other wise you could just twist the broken wire together and wrap with electrical tape. That could last for a long time or just a short period of time depending on the climate you live in and if you get the tape wrapped good. Soldering almost brings the connection to nearly as good as it was before being cut.
As far as I am aware of Toyota never used just a solid color wire. All of them will be one color with a stripe. Example like the red wire with the purple stripe showing in the picture below. You are dealing with so few wires in the tail light assembly that you really dont need to worry about getting them mixed up.
There may be two green wires in the tail light. Just make sure they are striped the same or different. One could be green with a white stripe and the other green may have a red stripe. If they are the same, they will go to the same circuit. If they have a different stripe, they go to a seperate circuit.
The white wire with the black stripe is the standard ground wire in Toyotas and you will find it everywhere. That crimp inside it is just a wire combining two wire together. They can corrode and not allow signal flow. That one I would remove the crimp and solder or at the very least cut the wire crimp out and reconnect and wrap with electrical tape.
The wiring kit is designed well. It tells you which side each plug goes to. It is male/female connectors so you cant mess it up. There is a little power box that I just zip tie to my reciever hitch. When you first connect up your trailer lights, it will take a few seconds for the trailer lights to start working. I think it is basically charging some little capacitors in side the box. It is a great system.
Your light sockets look great from the outside. I have seen some really rusted ones and yours are in great shape. Check and see if there is any corrosion or rust where the bulb sets in the socket.
Terry! Thank you so much for the in depth instructions. I'm heading to get a converter now. I'll let ya know how it goes. As per the crimped ground wire in the light, would faulty wires running between lights create an issue on the trailer? All my vehicle lights work just fine.
I would suspect the connector at the truck or the trailer then. If the signal cant pass from the truck to the trailer it would seem to me that the faulty wire could cause your issue.
There is also a trailer light kit you can buy and replace the entire light system on the trailer as well.How is the condition of the wiring on the trailer? Wires do get chaffed and get damaged on them. Last month I replaced the entire light kit for one of my trailers. They are exposed to the weather and about every 5 years or so I end up replacing them. I replace from the connector all the way to and including the tail lights. If you have trailer brakes on your trailer, I am unaware of a kit for those. But just the lights, it is better off just to replace the entire assembly in my opinion.
The trailer is actually brand new, just built. It was towed with a uhaul and everything worked on it prior....Well, not the left turn signal/brake light, but pretty sure that's an issue somewhere in the trailer. Was still getting right brake lights with a friends vehicle hooked up.
That is some great fab skills on the trailer. I think it would be some issue in the trailer wiring as well. I wonder if it is in the light assembly on the trailer.
I have seen that color runner in pictures but never in person. I always liked that color. More of a maroon or burgundy.
That is some great fab skills on the trailer. I think it would be some issue in the trailer wiring as well. I wonder if it is in the light assembly on the trailer.
I have seen that color runner in pictures but never in person. I always liked that color. More of a maroon or burgundy.
VOILA!
It all works great. Converter was easy to install, and replaced any cut connection I found on the lights, which was a lot.
Ended up finding a separated turn signal wire on the trailer, but the vehicle side was cold as well. This fixed the brakes and turn signal, and everything is helluva lot brighter now.
Many thanks!
Everything is red from the exterior --> dash --> carpet. I love old ruby, who is starting to get a whole lot more love after I've been browsing this site. These things are so simple to work on, everything seems to be plug n play. Just turned over 200k mi and I bet it's got a lot to go.
Last edited by Scatterbrain; 08-12-2015 at 01:19 PM.
It all works great. Converter was easy to install, and replaced any cut connection I found on the lights, which was a lot.
Ended up finding a separated turn signal wire on the trailer, but the vehicle side was cold as well. This fixed the brakes and turn signal, and everything is helluva lot brighter now.
Many thanks!
.
Glad you got it worked out.
Your wiring disaster looks like the same scientist that worked on my truck worked on yours
i wouldn't say converters work great. they work, but they quite often fail. they are transistor/diode packs, basically *(i think like pand gates) but either way , i haven't seen them last, as they are operating even without a trailer attached. i know the uhaul ones are junk, and i think the cheap shelf ones as well. i'm about to post a 4-relay hack for toyotas that will work longer-term. just have to make a schematic for them on the computer.
08-11-2015, 01:44 PM
