Robinhood150

Low Profile Bumpstops Installed On A 2nd Gen 4Runner
12/23/2002
Mike (Cebby on the forums) shows you how he installed some low profile bumpstops on his 2nd gen 4Runner.

Tools Required:
(3) Energy Suspension 9.9102_ (each package includes two stops with nuts)
WD40
14mm deep well socket
9/16” deep well socket
Various Socket extensions
Breaker Bar
Large Pipe Wrench or Vise-Grips

Time Required: Two hours

We’ve all been there: an obstacle that, with a little extra articulation, would be easily passable. But Toyota’s torsion bar IFS front suspension is limited in the flex department. With the notion that “every little bit helps”, you can replace the stock bumpstops with low profile models available from Energy Suspension through parts dealers. These are available online as well as at your local 4x4 store. My total cost was under $24 at a local 4x4 store and my time investment was 2 hours.

The units I selected for my use were model 9.9102. They are available in both red (9.9102R) and black (9.9102G) and are packaged in pairs. Yellow and blue were previously available, but have been discontinued. I would have liked yellow to go with my other yellow suspension components, but I settled on black.



This is a universal model with dimensions of 11/16” tall x 2” diameter. The stock models are a great deal bigger at approximately 1 1/2” tall.



There are 3 bumpstops on each side of the front suspension. There are two lower stops that are a rounded over rubber shape with a metal flange at the base and one upper stop that is a rectangular block of rubber.

Two days prior to performing this swap, soak the studs of the existing bumpstops with penetrating oil like WD40. Do this at least twice, since the most difficult part of this project is removing the old units.

After you’ve given these a good soaking, it’s time to use the muscles. If your vehicle has spent significant time in a snow/rust belt like mine has, you’ll have your work cut out for you.

It’s best to have you vehicle on a flat surface for this project. Do not use a jack or a lift of any sort, as you will diminish the amount of space you’ll have to get the old stops out and the new ones in. Start by turning the wheels full lock to one side or the other. This makes it easy to get in there and wrench.

There is no right or wrong order in which to remove and replace these. I started on the rear of the passenger side after cranking the wheels full left.



From behind the front wheel is where you can access one lower and the upper stop. Use a deep well 14mm socket and be sure it is completely seated by giving it a few good raps your socket or a BHP. A normal socket almost makes it, but you run the risk of rounding over the nut. Use the appropriate socket extension to get the socket handle in an area where you can get some travel. Slip your breaker bar over the end of the socket and start to loosen. Remember “rightie tightie, leftie loosie”. Have the pipe wrench handy, since once you get the nut started, the whole stop will want to spin.

My first one was the most difficult since the stub threads were severely rusted. This one just wouldn’t give until I snapped the stud off. This worked out well, since the stop then just fell off. Installing the new stop was almost anticlimactic, taking a minute or two.
The new stop comes with a nyloc insert nut. I found that I could hold the new stop (with a glove) in my hand while cranking it down with a 9/16” deep well socket. The other lower stops were uneventful, however it was necessary to hold the lower stops by using a large pipe wrench on the metal flange at the bottom of the stop.



The upper stops are also removed from the rear and are little different in construction, making them just a little more difficult to get off. For adequate socket/breaker bar clearance, I used a couple of extensions to get the socket wrench handle below the suspension components.

Using a pipe wrench to hold this stop proved to be awkward, but doable. In hindsight, large vise grips are probably a much better solution for holding the stop – I used what I had handy. The upper stop does not have any exposed metal flange like the lower stops. However, there is a rectangular piece of metal attached to the end of the stud that is molded inside the stop. I know this because when I did the first one, it tore apart from the force of the breaker bar. Your tool to hold the stop will need to be right against the metal that it is mounted to avoid this. Since the stop is rectangular, it is more conducive to holding on to.

Here’s the new stops installed.





These are definitely an improvement over stock as tested through the “seat of the pants”. An obstacle that normally would cause me to lift a rear wheel, no longer takes the tire airborne. This is a welcome improvement since I’m currently driving with open differentials.
I’ve experienced no binding of the suspension components and have given it a few decent workouts since the installation. This is a great low buck modification.

Disclaimer:
This write-up is for informational purposes only. The author, Energy Suspension and Yotatech.com assumes no liability should you decide to modify your vehicle based on these instructions. We are not responsible for any damage or harm to yourself or others as a result of this modification. Any use of this information is at your own risk.

If you choose to do this mod good luck, and if you have any questions contact Cebby on the Yotatech Forum.