DoubleZero4x4

Today I installed my Goodridge SS Brake lines on my 3rd Gen. The stuff you will need is pretty simple and most of us already have these tools...

1 - Set of Goodridge SS brake lines (part # 21183)
1 - 10mm Open End Wrench
1 - 13mm Open End Wrench
1 - 17mm Open End Wrench
1 - flathead screwdriver
1 - pair vice grips
1 - Brake Bleeding kit (I use a vacuum pump one - $30 at Autozone)
1 - Large bottle of new brake fluid
1 - set of wheel removal stuff (jack, jack stands, lug wrench, etc)

First you should probably drop your spare. Trust me, I didn't do this and I wished I had. Next open up your hood and remove the cap to your brake resovoir. Open up the new bottle of brake fluid and have it standing by to top off your resovoir as needed.

Next loosen your front lug nuts and then jack up the front of your truck using your favorite bottle or floor jack and support the vehicle on jack stands and remove both front wheels. With the wheels off you now have access to your brake lines.

Don't yet remove the retaining clips that hold the brake lines to the body and the wheel assembly. Next loosen the brake lines and remove the upper connection (closest to the body) first. Use the finger of a latex glove to cap off the line lest you will have fluid dripping. Remove the lower connector (closest to the caliper) and now you can remove the retaining clips and remove your old brake line. Once the old line is out install the new line and install the retaining clips. Re-attach the lower connection and then re-attach the upper connection.

Once these are re-attached, hook up your brake bleeding kit and pump it up. Once you have a vacuum loosen up the bleeder valve and drain out about 3oz of fluid. Be sure to keep a vacuum the whole time including when you tighten the bleeder valve. Top off your brake resovoir and repeat the bleeding process again draining out about another 3oz of fluid.

Repeat the last 2 paragraphs for the other wheel.

For the rear you will have to loosen the top connection to the brake line first because the brake line screws into the mount at the differential; the line must be free to loosen and tighten it. With the top connection off, you can cap off the line and remove the body side retaining clip. Here is where it gets tricky...

You will need the 17mm wrench to loosen the lower part of the brake line and now you can unscrew it. When you get the brake line off you will need to retrieve a C-clip off the top part of the old brake line and attach it to top mounting point of the new brake line. The C-clip will keep the new line from pushing through. Now you will attach the differential side of the new brake line and tighten it down with your 13mm wrench. Yes - its a smaller wrench for the Goodridge lines. Once its tight you can now attach the upper part of the brake line. Re-attach the body side retaining clip and now re-attach the hard brake line.

With the brake lines re-attached you should now bleed the rear wheels as well. Hook up your brake bleeding kit and pump it up. Once you have a vacuum loosen up the bleeder valve and drain out about 3oz of fluid. Be sure to keep a vacuum the whole time including when you tighten the bleeder valve. Top off your brake resovoir and repeat the bleeding process again draining out about another 3oz of fluid.

If you are so inclined just repeat this step on all the wheels until the fluid is clear and now you have just flushed your brake system.

You should now be done - put your front wheels on, torque them down. Put the spare back and enjoy your new Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines.

The Pro's: It does seem to me that the pedal has a bit more stiffness to it. The pedal travel is about the same but with the Tundra upgrade I did last weekend my brakes are a dream now.

The Cons: I hate messes made with brake fluid. Fluid will drip, get used to it. This was an all around easy mod.

Overall: I would rate this at a 2.5 out of 5 on the difficulty scale and 3 out of 5 on the "cool mod" level. In other words I don't regret doing the mod.