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Zerk fittings on u-joint body impossible to reach? (Pic)
So i've tried fitting the grease gun at every angle of the driveshaft rotation to hit the zerk on the body. The grease gun simply will not fit. Did they expect is to take off the driveshaft to grease these things?
Also, places like Advance Auto Parts sell different style U-joints based on the location on the driveshaft. Would there be any reason for me to not switch to a U-joint with the zerk on the cap?
I thought this was going to be another case of the Autozone u-joint misplaced impossible to reach zerk. But to my surprise it wasn't. That looks like an OEM style u-joint zerk location(in the center of the cross). And you should be able to use it just fine as it is. What I'm getting at is it's your gun. Not the zerk location. Because no, they do not expect you to remove the driveshaft.
But then again, it could be that the pic is misleading me due to the angle it was taken at. It looks weird for another reason, if not that, too. Like how the hell do you remove that u-joint from the slip yoke?
On the other question, no. There's no reason other than the zerk is more exposed and more easily broken off.
Really pisses me off this default double line spacing thing that's happened on this site. Have to keep editting my posts to fix it every time. Who's dumbass idea was that? At least they fixed the automatic log out and delete your post before you get to post it after a few minutes BS. That was way worse. Sorry. Off topic.
There is so much gunk that you cannot see the u joint cap sticking out of the slip yoke in the pic.
This is your typical grease gun. There is simply no way for it to reach the zerk fitting, regardless of the position of the driveshaft.
Typical in your book maybe. But I can tell from a quick 2 second glance it looks like it's got a non-typical/slightly fatter than usual tip on it.
Here's one I've got with a flexible tube. See how it's nearly the same size as the fitting it's screwed onto? It's actually just a hair skinnier than the fitting.
I could be wrong. It could be the angle of the pic again.
Answer me this though. Is that zerk screwed into the middle of the cross on an angled fitting? It kind of looks like it's more towards the corner/edge, and without an angled fitting. Which I've seen before. But isn't stock. And is probably why you're having trouble with it.
EDIT: I can tell just by the type of rubber seals it's not stock/OEM. They don't have those.
Not knowing the trucks year I am only able to tell you what I have on my 83 and 04. On the early trucks (79 to 84) a needle adapter came in the tool bag for the jack to grease the U joints. The fittings were right in the centre of the cross on a small square right angle adapter. Absolute pigs to get at and grease, you'll end up with a handful of grease for every pump that goes into the U joint. My guess is they were put there to protect them from damage. Second photo I'll guess is the Carden joint at the transfer, if so those are definitely non-factory fittings (or someone has rebuilt the joint...badly...the FSM says you cant rebuild it but any driveline shop that employs higher primates can!). The fittings should go straight out and there was a guard over the joint at least on 83's which you removed to more easily grease it. On 04 and 97 Tacos the joints were redesigned so no adapter was required. IMO looking at the pics you need the grease gun adapter for the presumably diff U joint and someone has messed with the fittings on the Carden joint at the transfer. If I can figure out how to post pics I'll do one of the adapter or at very least see if there is a Toyota part# on mine and post it. I don't see any reason you couldn't switch to a fitting on the cap, it may slightly throw out the drive shaft balance and you slight risk knocking it off.
AND...
That double Carden joint should be greased with one which has Molybdenum Disulphate additives (as well as the steering knuckles/birfield joints if you have a solid axle rig)
And one more thing...
And I don't mean to criticise, but for the sake of your U joints please clean the crap off the end of the grease gun. If you have a solid axle rig that filthy end goes right into the knuckle housing. You're better off not greasing the U joints than greasing them and getting dirt in them. When I was the Maintenance Supervisor at a foundry I fired the guy who greased the machinery because he just wouldn't clean the end of the grease gun off before greasing bearings!
Last edited by Old83@pincher; 04-22-2016 at 04:06 PM.
Thanks for bringing my sanity back. It is an 85 4runner.
I am being as clean as I can and brushing off the zerk and wiping the gun clean.
What is the downside of not using molybdenum disulfide additives as you mentioned? This must be what the FSM was referring to when it said to use a different grease for a few fittings...
What is the downside of not using molybdenum disulfide additives as you mentioned? This must be what the FSM was referring to when it said to use a different grease for a few fittings...
The moly additive makes the grease more "sticky" so it stays on bearing surfaces and doesn't get "washed off" as easily. Think of it the same as powdered graphite or anti-seize, once its on something it's a pig to get it off. Yes it will mix with any lithium EP grease without caking, so don't freak out that you're going to mix bases, and in fact its base will be lithium. The grease will be a medium grey colour. Now its downside is that it is somewhat prone to separation...that is the term for when the actual oil lubricant will separate from the soap base. Not a serious issue if you keep up with the scheduled maintenance. This separation issue has caused many 1st gen owners to think the half shaft seals in the front axle were blown when in fact it was just separated grease dripping from the knuckles, but that's a whole different can of worms, and I'm not going there!
The dirty grease gun end just puts a cold shiver up my back. After nearly 35 years of industrial maintenance and seeing the results of well meaning people thinking they were doing good when they actually were doing more harm, you gota say something!
I could go into a long treatise about grease and lubrication but watching paint dry would be more interesting to the average Joe.
This is the exact adapter you're looking for. I Googled "grease gun adapter for Toyota U joints" and found this and some other useful images.
Last edited by Old83@pincher; 04-23-2016 at 05:31 PM.
Molybdenum is not a tackifier. It's an EP additive. Or dry lubricant on its own. Please do refrain from that treatise. I'd hate to have to spend all day correcting your mistakes. Thanks!
BTW, you're wrong about just about everything else you've stated so far in this thread too. But like I said. I don't have all day. And it's a good thing you don't work for me. Because you're fired. Pick up your last check on the way out the door.
Don't worry about firing me, I wouldnt work for a guy who keeps the lubrication equipment in that state. Is that dirt, rust or some other organic fertilizer on the end of that grease gun?
For the record, in laymen's terms, Molybdenum additives in grease generally are not intended as an EP additive even though on its own it can be. As you know when it is put under pressure it forms a tough slippery layer which prevents metal to metal contact. I believe if I recall correctly the Latin term in-suti describes its action best. Caution must be used in its application as rolling elements can skid rather then turn. In case you don't know what that means, the balls and rollers in bearings will not turn and flat spot.
Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is used as a solid lubricant and a high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) antiwear agent. It forms strong films on metallic surfaces and is a common additive to HPHT greases — in the event of a catastrophic grease failure, a thin layer of molybdenum prevents contact of the lubricated parts.
EP = Extreme Pressure = High pressure = yes it is an EP additive. Not only that it's the most common EP additive there is.
The roller bearing thing is purely hypothetical. Generally speaking that's not the case at all. Since it has a very low likelyhood(at best) of ever happening, if and when it ever even possibly could. Or it wouldn't be used widely in greases labeled "High Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease" and the like.
The most common EP additives are active and in-active sulfurized fats and hydrocarbons. Molybdenum is usually an additional additive...I believe you and I have said this. The roller bearing thing is not hypothetical. Proven fact, if I recall correctly Shell Laboratories.
You have shown me(us) greases with it as an additive, correct no argument there. Show me were it is the EP additive.
Well then I guess the staff at The British Columbia Ministry of education (and apprenticeship) and the supported colleges and universities, as well as the maintenance and engineering staff at SynCrude, Dofasco and Fording Coal should be out of work idiots by your measure? You wouldn't have been fired by them, that would require being hired in the first place.
Right now we are arguing about paint drying and how long its taking
Last edited by Old83@pincher; 04-24-2016 at 06:27 PM.
04-22-2016, 11:12 AM
