Funrunner

Thanks for the help Bob, every bit helps. I do have a hitch but still can't pinpoint where the sound is originating. I've felt around to see if I can find anything loose but no luck yet. It's not just over speed bumps but over some bumpy, uneven roads.

If I take it to the stealership I know it wouldn't dare do it for them. Next oil change maybe I'll ask them about it, otherwise the search continues........

Thanks for the idea!

Bob_98SR5

funrunner,

try this test: go to an empty mall in the evening and go over some speed bumps. vary your speed until you hear the sound. my rear clunking sound only came from the rear axle. try it and if that is the case, put some gloves on and poke around the main supports for your hitch. if i can take a pic tonight, ill post it.

bob

Funrunner

I'll give it a whirl Bob. I think I'd best be doing that in the daylight, plus our mall isn't that busy.

Thanks again!

User 051420

Lets see:

Power antenna doesn't budge, gears stripped. I dont use FM anyways (XM ONLY)

Stupid plastic handles on the heat controls always pop off.

Misc rattles in the rear (possibly from subs)

Nothing mechanical tho! (shhh!)

And oh yah..its missing a lift, and a locker. Go figure!

cctk2

"Its a 33 year old Landcruiser for crying out loud.
Rust issues below both doors and floor.
Transmission filler tube.
Finish rebuilding the front disk axle and "get er Done!" (remove drum brake axle)
Remove aux tank (rusted out)
Replace fiberglass roof (have parts)
Replace windshield and frame (have parts)
Finish the bucket seat install
Repair rusted out glove box"

Hehe, hello North Bend WA.... Crescent City here. with a 68 TLC. Still running good, but the rust is raising its ugly head more.... not to mention the World Famous drum brake nightmare..... as mine sits for 6 months at a time while Im in Alaska with the Tacoma (my other Toy)...

mauiwowie

-Running-board end cap came off in car wash (now dealer's saying that the RB looks like it's slightly bent and I should just order a whole new one -- lookin like it'll cost 400!)

-Some moisture got into one of the headlamps and so it shorted it and I'll need a new one.

-One of the rear windows will lower but will not raise (it's up now thank God) so a master switch needs to be ordered and then installed (another 400 bucks).

-Tiny dings here and there that will be easily removed (barely noticeable)

-Tempermental keyless entry fob, dunno what's its deal. It's kind of generic and was installed at the original dealer so I guess I'll have to just install an aftermarket alarm sooner or later.

-The speedometer needle seems to wiggle for the first ten to twenty MPH. Maybe I'm just nit-picking here, but it's something I noticed.

-Roof rack and rear air deflectors have faded a bit. Rest of the car looks real good, though.

-Oh, yeah, and one of the rear door handles is starting to have it's chrome "sticker" bubble a little bit. It's not rust, just starting to come loose I guess.

Juggalo

Everybody has something wrong with their rig, at least I'm not alone

For my 89 w/190k the only things wrong are that the digital clock isn't working, and my A/C needs to be recharged (will get done for summer)

And if you consider rubbing to be a huge issue as well...

Highland Runner

After 205,000 miles-
Small crack in the dash over gauges.
Rip in the leather of drivers seat from entering-exiting.
Recliner handle of the drivers seat is off.
These things were like this when I bought it and I consider to be minor. No rust, no bad paint, no dents, no oil leaks etc. Everything mechanically/electrically works.

jx94148

Per request, now workplace friendly. Thanks, and sorry to hear about all the problems.

Highland Runner

mauiwowie, $400 to replace a switch? Sounds like you need to find a new dealer. Thats outrageous. Go to a junkyard and get one or take the one you have apart. The switch comes off with the interior panel and can be replaced in less than 5 minutes.
The switch that rolls down my back window got soda in it. I took it apart and cleaned it. Very simple if it is the same style switch.
I think you said you had a 2nd gen the other day. If so the headlight can be fixed by replacing a $10 bulb. The whole unit can be removed and put in a warm (not hot) oven to remove the moisture inside. Remove the bulb and put the whole assembly in a 150 deg oven for 20 minutes. All the moisture will be gone. I have done this many times after driving through deep water.

ALBPM

Just the Owner....

Oh!!! not that kind of "Broke"

mauiwowie

Thanks for the suggestion. It's not the actual switch that you press to lower and lift to raise, it's the "master switch" -- has to do with the electrical crap. And the lamp has a hole in it, maybe from a stone or something. I don't think they're jippin me on the price of the parts by very much but it's the damn labor that's hella expensive.

Fink

Here we go:

-Rear driver side window won't budge
-Something rattles in the driver side door when window is down and I close the door
-Rust spot on the passenger side of the rear bumper (some CLR will do the trick)
-Sounds like rubbing when turned hard left/right and in reverse...theres an excuse to get that lift
-Oil/Filter change
-Rear brake light "box" needs to be secured...its only held on by some JB Weld right now, and only on one side...might as well put some duct tape on that thing
-New shocks (waiting for lift)
-Paint needs detailing/waxing, waiting for warmer weather and less snow

That's really all thats WRONG with it...I'm sure there are some other small stuff that I'm missing. I'm getting ready to take it into the shop for some work so once I get that list together I'll post on here and tell ya whats up!

Fink

midiwall

For me...

1. Finish new air tank/solenoid install
2. WEIRD (almost scary) squeaking coming from the rear suspension
3. Rear window motor is stuck running "down". Not a big issue since I don't use it, I just disconnected it.
4. OIL CHANGE!
5. Get "my favorite muffler shop" to re-route the crossover pipe from the header install. Right now, it's under the tranny pan.
6. Replace trashed kick-down cable. (see #5)
7. Finish install of new alarm (wire bundling)
8. Install radar/laser detector (external laser sensors)
9. Buff out mountain pinstripes to ready for spring.

outdoorfever

WOW i cant believe how many ppl have problems...i dont have too many on mine. its a 1990 with 136k. work horse in colorado for first 18k miles as passenger vehicle going up and down mountains for winter.

-rear passenger brake light shortage
-slight rust on driver side rear fender, filled in
-broken yak rack, and scratches from damaging lol
-rear passenger windows are REALLY slow
-not enough mods
-no girl in the front seat

I believe that is all the problems, nothing major whatsoever and lets keep it that way.

22Ryota

Umm lets see.....

Leaking trans fluid pan gasket
Wierd engine tick
dented front valance
dented tailgate (hopefully will have the dent mostly out or complete out next week with help from a friend in a wielding class at the vocational school)
inside plastic on door needs to be secured in corner (I'm thinking super glue)
Need to finished the window tinting job (only half the windows are tinted)
ummm... tiny speck of rust on bed in corner near passenger side of cab, couple areas paint got scraped off on bed where there is surface rust (little sanding and paint touch up hopefully)
Need new tires
New brake pads
New valve cover gasket needed
need engine degreased and cleaned (i know i know... i'm picky!)
New passenger side crome mirror

When i first got the truck I had to have all the motor mounts replaced, the transmission mount, new driveshaft, couple hoses, pvc valve (old one had been broken and glued back together).


And then i have about 4k worth of things i want to do to it... Wet okole seat cover, bed liner in bed, remove carpet and bed liner inside floor and back of cab.... That's just a couple of things of the 4k

Serith

I guess not a lot broken...now that i think about it (and spent the time to fix it)

-Front left fender a little mashed and paint chips missing.
-Front bumper bent and needs replacement.
-plastic thingie around left headlight broken.
-Windows don't roll down easy. (too much mud in them)
EDIT: Also my brake fluid line from the master cyclinder (i think) to the master vac (the metal line) is kinked, making for brakes sucking.

Things JUST fixed

-Right birfield joint
-made a new dash (Out of titanium )
-Just put in a new water pump.


Wow, i guess thats it...not as bad as i thought.

Andrey

Everything works in my case. Absolutely nothing is broken!
.
.
.
*knock on wood*

Hannu

I had a clunk from the rear of my 1990 4runner, that was most noticeable with passengers in the rear seat. I did not discover what the problem was until my brakes failed. What happned was that the the bracket where the lower control arm attaches to the rear axle had broken off. Why the brakes failed as well, was that attached to this braket was the fastener for the brake line to the right read wheel. The subsequent movement of this bracket eventually fatigued the brake line at this point and it snapped off. In case you have the same problem, I would check this asap.

rngrchad

Front right 1/4 completely smashed from sliding down a logging road into a Sycamore. Left side of rear bumper smashed from a Nissan Exterra rear ending me (it destroyed his poor truck ha!). Back left corner of bed has a huge dent from my pissed off buddy punching it, tailgate doensn't close unless I yank real hard on the passenger side bed rail, no paint on top of the bed reals from my canoe sliding around, weird leak on passenger side floorboard which causes my floor to get sopping wet, have multiple tire plugs...so many I quite counting ....the list goes on and it's only a 1997 Taco w/ 117,000miles.
:pat: