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I have a 84 4runner witha a 22r that's fighting me every step of the way, it's winning...
It's a project that has some issues. First is the charging. Replaced the alternator and voltage regulator three times. It's still over charging, at idle it's 14.7v and it rises to 18.9v. The voltage regulator has a 5 pin connector and the alternator has a 3 pin L shaped plug. Any ideas?
Second problem is it died when I was testing the battery and alternator. Would not start. Pulled the cap off and when I twisted the rotor the advance was sticking open. Pulled the dizzy out and cleaned it, now no sticking. Pulled value cover, rotated to TDC and rotor at number one cylinder.
Started right up. At High rpm it would sputter, why?
Now that it's running I can figure out this charging issue. One thing I forgot to mention, none of the alternators I'm getting line up with the water pump or harmonic balancer pullys. It's a half a pulley to far out. So I had to grind the bottom tab down to get it to line up. Anyone else had or having this issue?
And once again the truck dies and won't start!!! I know it's a project but if feels like I'm beating a dead horse!!!
Any advice would be appreciated. I'm not a expert mechanic by any means but I do have some skills and follow directions well... Thanks in advance
Here is a pic of my alternator bracket and my project runner. A little rust but no major rot.
I have a 84 4runner witha a 22r that's fighting me every step of the way, it's winning...
It's a project that has some issues. First is the charging. Replaced the alternator and voltage regulator three times. It's still over charging, at idle it's 14.7v and it rises to 18.9v. The voltage regulator has a 5 pin connector and the alternator has a 3 pin L shaped plug. Any ideas?
Second problem is it died when I was testing the battery and alternator. Would not start. Pulled the cap off and when I twisted the rotor the advance was sticking open. Pulled the dizzy out and cleaned it, now no sticking. Pulled value cover, rotated to TDC and rotor at number one cylinder.
Started right up. At High rpm it would sputter, why?
Now that it's running I can figure out this charging issue. One thing I forgot to mention, none of the alternators I'm getting line up with the water pump or harmonic balancer pullys. It's a half a pulley to far out. So I had to grind the bottom tab down to get it to line up. Anyone else had or having this issue?
And once again the truck dies and won't start!!! I know it's a project but if feels like I'm beating a dead horse!!!
Any advice would be appreciated. I'm not a expert mechanic by any means but I do have some skills and follow directions well... Thanks in advance
Here is a pic of my alternator bracket and my project runner. A little rust but no major rot.
I forgot to mention that I put in a new battery and installed a new ignition switch that came with the runner. Previous owner took out the a/c and took out the emissions crap. Who knows if its done right
Ok 84 was the change over year you just might have the old style engine.
Getting new style alternators or old style enough so the brackets are off
I don`t understand why your engine is using a separate voltage regulator when the 22re in my Celica`s had the internal regulator alternators
Keeping it original for a reason??
The sputtering could be any number of things old fuel dirty injectors
Clogged filter.
Rodent nests where there not supposed to be.
I just cleaned one out of the Air Filter box of my Daily Driver
Take a break for a few days It is a project.
Just what have you done tune up wise??
All I have done is cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Previous owner put in a accel coil. Po had the charging issue as well, probably why he sold it.
So I could have a 83 22r instead of 84, is there a way to tell? Im actually considering switching to a GM alternator but if I don't chase down why it's over charging I'm afraid the problem will still exist with a GM alternator. Like you said, take a few days off and think about it. I'll pull out the volt meter and start poking around. Wiring is not my strong suit
Po rebuilt the front of the motor. Timing chain, guides, water and oil pump. Hopefully it's done correctly. The head has been done at some point. Has 266k.
Put it at TDC, pulled the cap and valve cover and pulled number one plug. Rotor is pointing at number one but the cam gear is half a tooth off. I'll post a pic not the best but you can see the mark on the gear and the hole punch on the arrow, what gives?
Also the po left me with a rotor that spins on the shaft about a half inch.
Can I replace the shaft, or should I get a new one? Here in Nebraska it's slim pickens.
thanks motivated seller for selling me your problems... O well, is a straight axle 4runner.. Hard to find here
Last edited by peterbilt6905; 04-04-2016 at 04:06 PM.
Reason: Info
This, especially the part about taking a break if you can. Also, it never hurts to make sure all your grounds are solid and shiny.
I'm starting to realize that. I've checked and cleaned all grounds.
1-Ground from battery to fender√
2- right side from frame to block√
3- firewall to value cover√
4- bottom left side from frame to connector to wire loom√
After, I used a volt meter from each ground to + battery terminal.
Every ground I come across I check and clean.
At some point the po replaced the coil and igniter with a Bosch coil and a ballast/resistor, I think that's what you call it. Now I'm not getting any spark. Have 12.3v at the coil. Would it bad pickup coil in the distributer cause this?
When I checked the fuse block under the hood I'm missing the 80 amp fuse. The wires, I assume the 80 amp fuse is for, goes to a 175amp buss fuse connected to positive battery terminal. The three wires are white and two red/blue. Those wires go to AM1- 30amp fuse and AM2- 40amp fuse. Surely that can't be right
The radio quit working too. That's the least of my worries.
Now the battery in my volt meter is bad... Kicking me when I'm down..
I guess it's break time.
Without being in close and in person this is just a guess based on theory.
I gotta ask just where are you buying parts you are getting the returned parts checked ??
Try getting the Alternator and regulator checked before you leave the store!!
It is possible you have luck like mine and a batch of bad parts
I always install new charging system parts with the battery fully charged dis charged batteries have been known to cause interesting alternator problems
For what ever reason the voltage regulator is seeing a need to increase the output of the alternator.
You are reading the voltage with a Meter??
Most newer Meters have the Auto Shut off
Like you have a massive load on the system .
Could be wired wrong
Poor connection corroded or broken wires
Just a failed voltage regulator
Trying to do electrical work without the Toyota Electrical Diagrams can be so very frustrating !!
Well after a week long break I dove back in. Found out the two round connectors were shorting out. Two main connectors from main fuse block, on left inside fender. Had to break them to get them apart. One was melted the other was full of corrosion.
So I went to u-pull-it parts and found a 86 runner. Grabbed the connectors and wires from fuse block that I needed. Everything I replaced I didn't want to keep jacking with it so I figured I would do it right. No butt connectors no twisted wires with electrical tape. Soldered all connections, heat shrink then electrical tape.
So I hooked everything up, double checking that everything is correct. The runner fired right up and everything is working as it should except for the damn alternator. Still over charging!!! 14.7 at idle and 18+ when rpms go up.
So i picked up a 94amp GM alternator and the bracket from trail gear is on its way.
Me I would keep going at this just till I figured out why this overcharging is happening.
Yes, reading at battery and back of alternator. What gives?
The third set of reman alternator and the voltage regulator were tested before leaving the store. All wires and connectors are good. Checked every wire from fuse block to the alternator, one by one and replaced if needed. Soldered all connections from new plugs to existing wires, heat shrinked then electrical tape.
I talked to the PO about the alternator and he had the same issues. Who knows what he or other owners have done. A 32yr old vehicle is bound to have hacked electrical, but why mine...
I have been staring at the wiring diagram and at first is was like looking at a big bowl of spaghetti. After a few days I'm starting to catch on.
Thanks for everyone's help and input and I know I'll get the figured out
Well it's been a few weeks sense I've posted so here is an update.
Checked and replaced bad wires from fuse block and replaced the round plugs on drivers fender. No more shorting out..
Done away with the Toyota alternator and voltage regulator and installed a 94amp GM alternator. Works great too. 14.3v at idle and 14.4v when giving it gas, does that seam correct?
Done with one problem and on to another...
When I set the timing I set it at TDC with rotor at number one cylinder. Hook up the timing light and it was still at TDC. When I give it gas it advances and when I let off it don't go back to zero... Does that mean my distributer is sticking? Taking the distributer out to give it a good cleaning..
you should probably replace plugs cap rotor anyways, but does it seem to skips as well? Like misfire almost? That could be the distributor but if it surges it may be tps
Sorry I should have mentioned this but I did replace the cap,rotor, wires and plugs. Also i have a 84 4runner carbed 22r.
When driving normal it drives fine through all gears. When I get on it a little more with higher rpms it boggs down and wants to fall on its face. Spudders and if I don't let off the gas it will die.
04-03-2016, 05:56 PM
Without being in close and in person this is just a guess based on theory.
