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*This is going to be long because I want to get everything I did included*
This is also alot of nothing but already covered ground to some of you. Humor me and let me know if you've experienced the same results or disagree with anything.
By now alot of the 22R/R-E owners have encountered a clattering noise at cold start.
General opinion is that it's caused by one of two areas.
1. The timing chain tensioner isn't doing it's job.
1a. It's worn/weak and needs to be replaced, Whoever replaced it or messed with it last over-tightened the bolts leading to slow movement or only partial movement.
1b. The oil pump is weak and isn't building the needed pressure to make the tensioner function correctly.
2. The oil filter Anti-Drainback valve isn't doing it's job.
When it doesn't seal it allows oil to back-flow from the top end of the engine back into the oil pan.
That leads to a momentary lack of lubrication or dry start the next time you turn the key as it tries to refill/supply those areas.
When you hear that rattle/clattering noise for a second before it quiets down it could be a lack of lubrication and that's hard on the parts.
3. It's just the valves on a 22R/R-E, learn to live with it...
But yet some 22R/R-E's hardly make a peep so there goes that theory.
A number of long time 22R/R-E owners mention they use 20W-50 oil. That throws everything most engineers say right down the drain. It's a generally accepted theory that you want thin oil during cold starts and cold climates so that it spreads fast and everything gets lubricated ensuring low wear and tear on the reciprocating assembly and valve-train.
Now what if in the case of the 22R/R-E that thicker oil actually helped the timing chain tensioner function by causing higher oil pressure forcing the tensioner to work resulting in decreased wear of the timing chain guides and lowering the noise from that area? Hmm...
When I purchased my truck less than a year ago it had alot of noise at cold start that I didn't like and valve noise when idling and driving when warm. It had a SUPER DUPER Super Tech filter on it and the oil was black so an immediate change was in order. Enter the Valvoline VR1 10W-30 and the dealer supplied Toyota 90915-YZZG1 filter. I told the parts counter I wanted an oil filter for a 91 22R-E and that's what was brought out to me. After the oil and filter change I still had the same noise at cold start but the valve-train noise when warmed up had been decreased to a small degree. I drove it that way for 3,000 miles and it was time for a change because that noise at cold start was making me nervous.
During that 3,000 mile cycle I researched (internet treasure hunt) oil filters and found that there were larger alternate OEM Toyota filters that I could've used so I pursued that route by purchasing both the 90915-YZZD1 filter and a 90915-YZZD3 from a dealer.
During that time of research is when I kept seeing several longtime 22R/R-E owners on different sites were using 20W-50 oil and the OEM Toyota YZZD3 filter and wondered why. Long time owners usually have a reason they do things and when you see a trend it makes you think they've figured something out or they're nuts.
Remembering the blackness of my oil when I first got my truck I thought maybe the previous owner made the engine survive off of long service intervals and fed it with high quality products like the Super Tech filter that was on it and whatever the else the dollar store had to offer. *I decided to flush it*
NAPA had an oil and filter sale so I purchased three NAPA Gold 1348 filters knowing that two of them were going to have short stays on my engine. I got it up to temperature by driving for approximately 30 minutes, quickly dumping the oil, installing a new filter, and adding 2 1/2 quarts of diesel oil and adding diesel gas till it read full on the stick. (It must be done quickly so the coolant remains warm to prevent the engine from going into fast idle with the gas/oil mix). I let it idle for 30 minutes and dumped the mix then added the NAPA (Valvoline) 15W-40 diesel oil and another new NAPA 1348 filter. Diesel oil has a higher detergent package that can help break up sludge in a regular engine and that's why I chose it.
I went for a drive and quickly realized the valve-train noise while driving and idling had definitely been decreased but the combination of what I had done had failed to lower noise levels enough to put my mind at ease. The clattering noise at cold start or even after sitting for a few hours was still there so I concluded that the NAPA 1348 filter wasn't any better or any worse than the Toyota YZZG1 on my engine. What either one did for my oil pressure I couldn't tell you because I don't have an oil pressure gauge, just a warning light. My oil warning light has never lit up while the engine is running.
The next day I warmed it up, removed the valve-cover and checked the valves clearances which were at .008 and .012 Hot- Slight Drag.
I tightened this specification up to .007 and .011 Hot- Slight Drag. I replaced the front and rear 1/2 moon or U gaskets with the fat Fel-Pro's using a dab of Toyota FIPG and I replaced the valve-cover gasket with a new Toyota gasket. I tightened the valve-cover nuts down to 1/4 of a turn after seated ignoring the Toyota FSM specification of 5.9 N-m or 52 in-lbf. The factory spec is definitely tighter than 1/4 of a turn and I'd read that if those nuts are too tight it can cause the rockers to hit the valve-cover and make noise. So far I don't have any leaks or rocker to valve-cover contact that I can detect with a mechanics stethoscope. (While I was in there I confirmed that the timing chain was tight and even though the guides were plastic they were intact. I also saw where the old chain had previously rubbed a little of the aluminum)
I went for a drive and noticed the warmed up valve-train noise had now been reduced to livable levels. There will always be some noise because of the way the rockers ride on the cam and the Valve Clearance specification. Now with the engine warmed up, the hood open, and the engine idling I can hear just a slight ticking from the cam, rocker, and valve area but there's something ticking louder and I'm pretty sure it's the fuel injectors.
The next day at cold start the clatter was still there.
Because of everything I've done I highly suspect it's not the valves but more likely the timing chain slapping around for a second before the timing chain tensioner fully tightens up the slack. Since it requires oil to pressurize it I thought maybe the Anti-Drainback valve in both of the oil filters I had tried don't work so good on this engine and was allowing the oil to escape prematurely. I keep reading from bswarm that he uses the Fram Tough Guard and when he switched to something else he got start up noise when before it wasn't present.
I started researching start-up noise on all kinds of different engines and it seems alot of it is directly related to the Anti-Drainback valve leaking on certain engines causing dry starts and the resulting valve-train noise. Some engines are more sensitive to a poorly designed Anti-Drainback valve design then others and I believe the 22R/R-E is one of them. Now apparently as much poo as the Fram filters has received for their cheap paper end caps it turns out that the Anti-Drainback valve design on the Tough Guard filter is perhaps it's one saving grace. I'm just not a Fram guy so that ain't happening on my engine anytime soon. But it did make me hunt for good Anti-Drainback designs. In theory that Toyota YZZG1 filter should have worked good because it was a Toyota filter from the dealer but for reason's I don't understand it didn't.
Now that I've allowed one week to go by to catch some debris that the flush and diesel oil have worked loose and I've researched the oil filter thing to death I decided to just install the Toyota YZZD3 filter that I had on hand and see if it made a difference.
I filled it as much as I could and installed it. Not surprisingly on the first start there was the same clattering noise because it still had air pockets. However it seems like after that I'm getting alot less noise at cold start. Perhaps there's something to this YZZD3 filter?
As an experiment when I shut the truck off on Saturday afternoon I didn't start it again until today (Monday). I started it in the afternoon about in 55-58F degree weather. The engine cranked over about 6-10 revolutions and it came to life with 0 of that ugly clatter at start up
I'm not holding my breath because it took quite a while to start compared to how fast it normally does. Perhaps that allowed oil pressure to build before it started cutting the time it takes for the timing chain tensioner to get pressurized and take the slack out of the chain. Perhaps the combination of the flush and the diesel oil has freed something up...
Ok, *I AM* holding my breath.
I don't know but it sure sounded nice and quiet for a change
*chryslerminivan.net*
"I used the Denso oil filter on our 1998 DGC and it caused the worst cold-start valve train clatter of any oil filter I ever put on the old girl. I took it off after only one-hundred miles and threw it in the trash; that was the last straw before I started using the FL-1A exclusively."
*bobistheoilguy*
"I have a 99 toyota camry with the 2.2. I found out that the tough guard filters are junk so at the last oil change I switched to a ac delco. It had a toyota filter when I purchased the car. When I removed it, no oil came out of the filter at all. Every time I changed the filter with the fram toughgard, oil went everywhere as the filter was still half full of oil.....even after sitting overnight. So I must come to the conclusion that even if the toughgard is junk, the silicon ADBV must work properly."
"If your filter removes dry, you need to switch brands. Even the best ADBV will slowly leak over time. There is NO filter that prevents clatter in my car after sitting a month.
Filter mounting angle/location has nothing to do with needing an ADBV or not.
Test your used ADBV's by blocking with a same thread bolt from the hardware store."
"This, along with what unDummy posted higher up, is what I understand the ADBV is supposed to do. The oil would like to flow back down the oil galleries backwards through the filter and into the sump, but the ADBV stops it. The oil galleries and passage all they way to the filter core should always be full and have no where to empty out of anyway (regardless of filter position) because it's like a well that is being filled up from the bottom. The upper cylinder head gets zilch until the system can filter enough oil to fill up/pressurize the galleries.
Because of this, I feel a good ADBV is very important, and am still looking for a good one. My PureONE still allows some startup clatter sometimes and I recently bought an OEM filter for my Nissan which is supposed to have a very good reputation. It's made in Japan and seems to have very impressive looking construction detail from what I can see without slicing it open. It has a nitrile ADBV unlike the PureONE (which I bought because it has a silicone valve), but from some recent filter disection threads like the one posted by RealWing (link is dead) it's beginning to seem that the design and fit of the valve may be more important than whether it's made from silicone or nitrile. Some of them seem to have a nice O-ring type design."
"Well I can tell you I have never had a dry filter ever. I have had some that did a better job then others based on how much oil I got out. THe Motorcraft FL1A and Baldwin B2 by far did the best job. THe B2 was full right up to the top!!! I have never had valve train noise on any of my vechiles but I never used a Fram on a vechile with hydralic valve train either."
__________________________________________________ _________________________
This post from above has me intrigued, "I have had some that did a better job then others based on how much oil I got out. THe Motorcraft FL1A and Baldwin B2 by far did the best job. The B2 was full right up to the top!!!
-Observations,
If you keep searching you find that the Motorcraft FL-1A and Baldwin B2 filtes are especially good at one thing and that's their ability to contain the oil after the engine is shut off even though they don't contain a RED Silicone Anti-Drainback valve.
The other thing that's interesting is that their (FL-1A & B2) bypass isn't clear at the other end of the filter like 95% of the others, including the OEM Toyota's. It's right at the front near where it's screwed on the engine. This bypass design is often referred to as a "Clean End Bypass" , "Threaded End Bypass" or "Front End Bypass".
Wix is another filter that uses the Clean End bypass design and it's on damn near all of their oil filters but they use a cartridge that's placed at the front of the filter. Some select Motorcraft and Bladwin filters have that built into the casting.
Some filters with the "Clean End Bypass" are Motorcraft FL-1A, FL-400S, FL-910S , Baldwin B2, B2-HPG, B34
Check out what this guy has to say about bypass location and dirty oil going to your engine... From the looks of it having the bypass at the front is a good thing because it doesn't wash the trapped debris off the outside of the filter and into your engine.
Most filter companies have a filter that crosses over to the Motorcraft FL-1A but most of them don't have the bypass in the same position so if that's what you're looking for you have to look at pictures of them cut open or hunt them down yourself to make sure. I've read it multiple times that the Motorcraft filter is made by Purolator and built to Fords specifications. I've used the Purolator Classic and PureOne filters on other engines and their standard anti-drainback system didn't work so great for me. In my feeble thought process I'm thinking maybe Ford's design with the location of the bypass might have a wee little bit to do with why the anti-drainback design works well.
Bla bla bla
Now the interesting thing is according to Bladwin their B2 filter is a direct crossover to the Motorcraft FL1A. It even has the same bypass design when most of the others that cross over don't.
I can't find any direct information from Baldwin about the B2's filtering so I sent them an email requesting those specifications.
UPDATE:
Baldwin sent me an email with those specifications.
The B2 and the B34 - Established 12 Microns Nominal at 85.44%, 30 Microns Aboslute.
Flow rates were given as
B2 & B2-HPG =6 gpm
(I believe that's incorrect information. The B2 gpm flow rate should be a little higher because the filter media is a little less restrictive but those are the figures they gave me)
B34 Flow rate = 4.5 gpm (3 7/8inch long version of the B2)
B2-HPG- 7 Nominal and 23 Absolute. ( The B2-HPG is physically the same as the B2 filter and it and has the same bypass location. It has a different filtering media with specifications that are comparable to an AMSOIL and Modil1 filter but so is the price)
So it looks like the Threaded End Bypass is the way to go to me.
I just wish I could find the exact specifications on Toyota's filters. It would be nice to think I found an alternate filter that has at least the same filtering capabilities with a better Anti-Drainback valve.
The old company I worked at actually had an engine failure in their large Volvo delivery truck that was related to a bad bypass valve. They had the service shop take a look at it and they reported back with their findings. They said they had found that the oil filter's bypass was far too weak and was allowing all the oil to blow right by the filtering media. They gave the oil filter back and I saw it. That relief was really really weak, it had to be defective for sure. -Not so bad if you've got clean oil but on a delivery truck that probably spent at least 10 hours a day on the road this isn't going to happen.
They also found the air filter hadn't been changed in a long long time returning the black air filter and *THEIR* departments service records to back it up.
They said all those large contaminants from the air filter were being sucked right into the engine and since the filter bypass was toast none of it was getting filtered and all of the moving parts were getting ground up.
In theory that Toyota YZZG1 filter should have worked good because it was a Toyota filter from the dealer but for reason's I don't understand it didn't.
You can see from this picture other than being on the short side it looks like a decent design with metal end caps and a Red Silicone Anti-Drainback valve. It's what most would regard as a good quality filter..
What's there not to like?
To me it actually looks like it was built by Champion Labs because it's awfully close to a Purolator L10241 with the addition of a Red Silicone Anti-Drainback valve. That's not too surprising because Motorcraft and Mopar filters were/are also produced there.
Also note that the word DENSO is NOT present on the YZZG1
Now take a look at the YZZD1. It looks identical to the YZZD3 shown below, it's just shorter. Again, what about bypass pressure???
Now take a look at the highly thought of (but discontinued) 90915-20004 filter (far left) side by side with the YZZD3 filter. You can see they changed the design on the YZZD3 in several ways. To me the 20004 looks like it would do a better job of holding the oil, but who knows.... I'll bet as far as filtering goes it would also come close to the PureOne filters.
Again, look at the Anti-Drainback setup on the Fram. Notice how the sealing surface of it and the 20004 filter is curved towards the filter media instead of away like the YZZG1, YZZD1, YZZD3, DENSO and Purolator? It might be a stretch but perhaps this has something to do with how well the Anti-Drainback valve holds the oil at bay?
Quality aside, people can cut up as many filters as they want, measure all the media content they want, make comments about media material, comment on metal end caps Vs. Glued Pleats Vs. Paper end caps for years. Yet without actual side by side flow tests and lab results it's difficult to say what actually does the best job.
I do appreciate all the pretty pictures though
I'm only trying to find what I think is the best anti-drainback valve to calm my noise at start up. Then I'll really start paying attention to the numbers.
I'll leave it up you to pick the best filter because it means different things to different people. There are cheap people out there that have a price point they won't go beyond, there are others who want the highest filtering possible to get every mile out of an oil change or engine as possible, yet others with high horsepower have to sacrifice some filtering for flow to keep their engine fed.
All around I think the OEM YZZD3 isn't a bad way to go but I've never seen any hard numbers on it. I'd like to know what it's nominal and absolute micron rating is and find out where the bypass pressure comes in at.
Before I read this post yesterday, I just bought a case of Toyota filters off of Amazon. I had no idea the difference in OEM numbers/designs. I don't have any personal preference really, the ones on Amazon were essentially the same price as Fram and the rest, so I bought them.
Every 22r I have ever had has made some sort of tap noise. The one I am getting ready to re-install was terrible. Thanks and keep us posted.
YZZG1, YZZD1, and YZZD3 will all physically bolt on and seal, but that's all I know.
I want to see what their by-pass pressures and micron ratings are. They could have different by-pass pressures but for some reason auto manufacturers don't make that information easily available. As you can tell from the pictures the YZZG1 has a different construction than the YZZD models and the YZZD3 is the tallest.
The Motorcraft FL-1A and Baldwin B2 & B2-HPG that I'm wondering about are 1+ inches taller than the YZZD3. The short Baldwin B34 is somewhere between the D1 and D3 filters.
*bobistheoilguy*
"Filter was in use for around 7,000 miles on a just purchased (at 100K) 1MZ-FE. Prior to this, vehicle received dealer bulk fill, and during this OCI, oil was Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-30. No issues were noted, with even pleat spacing and no element tears. ADBV was excellent, doing a great job of holding a large quantity of oil in the filter."
"What is the Puro/FRAM X-reference #'s for these MotorCraft filters? They look very well made and sililar to the PuroPureOne that I have cut open."
"Purolator equivalent is 20195."
^That is incorrect because that model doesn't have the threaded end/clean end by-pass.
The smaller holes at the top is where oil flows out of the Motorcraft and Baldwin threaded end/clean by-pass filters when they are in by-pass mode as explained in the video above.
This link takes you to a home brewed filtering test of several common oil filters and he included the YZZD1 in there "Just for fun".
From the looks of it the YZZD1 was good on flow but didn't do so well for filtering.
That kinda puts my mind at ease as far as finding a common filter that filters as well as the Toyota YZZG1, D1, and D3 filters.
There is also a subjective observational study where they mention that the design of the Wix by-pass is "Very Slick". They didn't test any of the Motorcraft filters, I'm guessing for brand clashing reasons but there were alot of others they didn't test. Ryco, Baldwin, FleetGuard, Purolator, Donaldson, Mahle, Mann, Hengst, Pennzoil...
1. This isn't an official Toyota comparison - this is something we did here at Olathe Toyota Parts. We hired Jason Lancaster, editor of TacomaHQ.com, to conduct this comparison, but we didn't pay him to generate a specific result. Jason acted completely independently and in good faith. If you have questions about methodology, etc., please contact Jason directly.
Thank's man but it's mostly other peoples statements/observations that I've quoted and the rambings of a nut case lol
*toyotanation*
I run 20w-50, always have. Although I did break my new motor in with 10w-30, which was reccomended.
Oh and I work in Mechanic shop, and we have a program called Motor Info(part of ALLData) and it calls for 20w-50 in our trucks(22-RE)."
^But he's from Florida where the temperature is typically warmer. I saw 10W-30, 10W-40, AND 20W-50 recommended in my Chilton manual, I would expect that to be printed somewhere in owners manual and probably in the FSM.
*yotanation*
"5W-30 won't hurt the 22RE motor, but 10W-40 and 15W-40 have been known to significantly extend timing chain mechanism life."
-Thoughts,
In case there's any leakage passed the anti-drainback valve I think I should stay with the smaller filters of around 3.25-4 inch to help the system build pressure faster. I still wish I knew for sure what the bypass pressures on the factory Toyota filters were.
Just found an interesting one.
There is an oil filter that has two anti-drainback valves.
Though this one is a Fram (ExtraGuard PH8316) I'm sure there are others that will have the same design.
The Motorcraft FL-2005 had that dual valve design but it was discontinued and replaced by the FL-400S that I've been looking at.
*bobistheoilguy*
"I believe the original Motorcraft filter had the same valve (the FL2005). Can anybody confirm this? I use the PH5343 for my MX-6 (Fram), and it also contains this "clean-side" ADBV. I haven't seen another aftermarket filter with it, but I haven't searched too far. Perhaps somebody else knows better?"
"The purpose is to keep some oil in the centertube? It's at the opposite end the bypass valve? And the oil pressure opens it when the engine operating?"
"Correct on all statements. With this "clean-side" ADBV, apparently oil is delivered almost instantly. There is a weak spring behind the white cap, and so almost any amount of flow opens the valve. I know the filters hold a lot more oil with this valve than without."
The cross from the Motorcraft FL-400S to Purolator is the Classic# P20195. Remember the bypass and the anti-drainback valve isn't the Clean Side design
It has been mentioned that the Purolator Classic offers slightly more pleating material for slightly better filtering. Then there's always the PureOne PL20195 that offers even more filtering but it's at the cost of greater flow restriction.
However, for the last two years alot of people over at bobistheoilguy have been posting about the Purolator Classic and PureOne tearing the pleating material which constantly lets unfiltered oil into your engine. There's also several reports of the yellow/gritty paint being oversprayed onto the mounting surface of the filter and some inside of the filter... Not good.
Many have sworn off the Purolator "Branded" products for now.
A Purolator rep was on there a while ago and admitted they have a problem and are looking into it. When a rep admits there's a problem it's not a small issue because it can damage their reputation and hurt sales.
*bobistheoilguy*
"They know there's a problem ... their letter is clear that they know something is not right and they are looking into it to find a possible cause.
From the form letter:
"Although I am new here as Quality Manager, I can assure you that our mission here at Purolator is one of quality and commitment to continuous improvement. I have reviewed that forum and have had inquiries from a few other members/readers. Over the last month I have been discussing and reviewing processes with the production, engineer and quality team. We have done some physical and theoretical analysis (to include another 45 minutes just this afternoon) and have implemented a few improvements.
We are always improving our products and process. I recommend buying new items as the need arise to take advantage of any undisclosed improvements."
Since I'm running thicker oil (15W-40) than 99.9% of the guys over at bobistheoilguy run (they tend to like Synthetic 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30) there's no way I'll even consider the Classic or PureOne filters until reports are alot better. Thicker oil would only lead to a higher chance of the filtering media tearing when the oil is still cold trying to make it's way through the filtering media.
The Motorcraft filters aren't suffering from those problems.
I'm still a little amazed at how much less noise the engine is making when it's warmed up since I changed to heavier 15W-40 oil and went to .007 and .011 Hot- Slight Drag valve clearance.
I see alot of posts over on the marlincrawler forum about setting them at .007 and .011 cold but I don't know if I want to try that just yet. I'll have to check and see what mine are currently sitting at when cold before I even think about it.
An interesting post I found.
I believe I know this person and their mechanical background.
Having said that I have no reason to doubt them, especially from what I experienced by setting mine at .007 and .011 Hot- Slight Drag before I found these posts.
*toyotanation*
"I got my truck's valves adjusted at the dealer Friday and the valves are noticeably louder than they were before..it sounds kind of like a diesel. I went back to the dealer and they said that's normal for the 22R-E. Now, I know it's not as smooth or quiet as a 1MZ or something, but my engine was nowhere near that loud before and sounded pretty quiet with very little valve noise at all.The truck only has 35,500 miles on it."
Reply:
"The reason your 22RE was quieter BEFORE you took it in for a valve adjustment is because the FACTORY set the clearances at .006"or .007" intake valves and .010"or .011" exhaust valves. Your dealer enlarged these clearances up to .008/.012 so now the engine is clickety-clackety and has less power and will deliver 1-2 less MPG fuel economy.
You need to have someone readjust the clearances back to the factory settings to quiet down the motor and to restore good power and fuel economy. Example: the intake valves should be adjusted so that a .007" feeler gauge
blade fits with a moderate amount of drag on the blade and the exhaust valves should be adjusted so that a .011" feeler gauge blade fits with a heavy amount of drag on the blade.
Google Toyota 22R valve adjustment to find a tutorial if you want to do it yourself (but realize even the tutorials recommend the .008".012" setting which is too loose for quiet, powerful motor performance)."
Third party reply:
"The FACTORY Service Manual specifies a clearance of .008" for the intake and .012" for the exhaust."
"True, but I purchased two 22RE trucks brand new so I know what the FACTORY actually set the clearances at plus I checked the clearances on several other '93 & '94 trucks that were near new and I very consistently found the FACTORY set the clearances at .006/.010 or .007/.011. I also know these settings don't harm the motors because I still own both trucks and one of them now has 486,000 miles yet it still has like new compression on all cylinders"
"Why are the factory settings different than one service manuals state?."
"I'm not a Toyota engineer so I don't know. Nobody here knows. So it's up to you to either live with your noisy engine or to get the clearances tightened back to where they were before the dealership touched your valves. End of story."
*yotatech*
"Mine never made noise. I just installed a timing chain, and now they are a little noisey. I will adjust them today. I'll let you know what tolerance I set them to.
Also if you overtighten the valve cover, it will pull up on the rocker shafts. Torque for the valve cover is 52 inch pounds.
Mileage = 158,000"
"OK, just got home from work. I adjusted my idle speed, set my timing, and adjusted my valves.
After the truck was at operating temp, I pulled the valve cover and set my tolerances as such:
Intake .006
Exhaust .010
Someone I know told me to use these measurements, because he said they always made noise using factory specs.
Forgot to add, ITS QUIET."
Myself, I would only recommend attempting the .006 .010 adjustment if you're very quick and competent at setting the valves.
I gotta say that I find the notion that an additional thousandth or two of valve lash can noticeably affect the performance of a 22re to be laughable.
I would challange anyone to show dyno numbers that document substantial loss of performance in a stock, or near stock engine running at any revs that such an engine is ordinarily run at.
There is a large potential downside to tightening these valves just to quiet the tappets a little.
A 22re that clatters a little is a happy engine that will last a long, long, time.
04-06-2015, 10:33 PM
is the best anti-drainback valve to calm my noise at start up. Then I'll really start paying attention to the numbers.
