When to fix an oil leak
01-15-2017, 06:05 PM
#1
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When to fix an oil leak
Hello everyone: first, let me say how much I have enjoyed and appreciated yotatech, and the contributions you've all made to this great source of information.
I’m trying to determine how much oil is considered a safe amount to leak for a 1998 Toyota T100 with a 3.4 and manual transmission. Vehicle is new to me, and has 188,000 miles on it.
Within 24 hours of being driven and parked, a few drops of oil appear. I’ve never seen more than two 25-cent-quarter size pools, and the dipstick indicates 3/4 full (checking when engine is completely cold) with 1,000 miles and no oil added. I’ve cleaned everything pretty well underneath, but have yet to fully determine where the leak is coming from. The leak comes down onto the transmission bell housing, and often onto the oil pan as well. I’m somewhat confident it can’t be the valve cover gaskets because records indicate both were replaced by the dealer 3,000 miles ago. Further, there does not appear to be oil residue around the valve covers. Records also indicate cam plugs were replaced at the same time, nor does there appear to be oil residue. I’m thinking it’s either the the rear main, or possibly the oil pan … but again, I’m not that confident.
My question is, what is a safe/acceptable amount of oil for these rigs to leak before the leak should be fixed?
Thanks guys!
I’m trying to determine how much oil is considered a safe amount to leak for a 1998 Toyota T100 with a 3.4 and manual transmission. Vehicle is new to me, and has 188,000 miles on it.
Within 24 hours of being driven and parked, a few drops of oil appear. I’ve never seen more than two 25-cent-quarter size pools, and the dipstick indicates 3/4 full (checking when engine is completely cold) with 1,000 miles and no oil added. I’ve cleaned everything pretty well underneath, but have yet to fully determine where the leak is coming from. The leak comes down onto the transmission bell housing, and often onto the oil pan as well. I’m somewhat confident it can’t be the valve cover gaskets because records indicate both were replaced by the dealer 3,000 miles ago. Further, there does not appear to be oil residue around the valve covers. Records also indicate cam plugs were replaced at the same time, nor does there appear to be oil residue. I’m thinking it’s either the the rear main, or possibly the oil pan … but again, I’m not that confident.
My question is, what is a safe/acceptable amount of oil for these rigs to leak before the leak should be fixed?
Thanks guys!
01-15-2017, 06:32 PM
#2
Registered User
Your oil consumption is nil.
What you describe is about a quart in 4000 miles, and its likely that some of the shortfall is being burned in the engine.
I'd keep watch on consumption and leave it alone.
I have an old Ford Escort that developed a small leak at the power steering pump seal several years ago.
Over 80,000 miles later, that pump (working well), is still leaking the same small amount of oil, and I haven't put $10 worth of oil in it.
Any rebuilt pump that I might have replaced the leaker with would have likely failed by now. Best to leave small imperfections alone until real problems occur.
What you describe is about a quart in 4000 miles, and its likely that some of the shortfall is being burned in the engine.
I'd keep watch on consumption and leave it alone.
I have an old Ford Escort that developed a small leak at the power steering pump seal several years ago.
Over 80,000 miles later, that pump (working well), is still leaking the same small amount of oil, and I haven't put $10 worth of oil in it.
Any rebuilt pump that I might have replaced the leaker with would have likely failed by now. Best to leave small imperfections alone until real problems occur.
01-15-2017, 07:30 PM
#3
The hash marks on a dip stick are usually one quart deep.
Standard acceptable oil consumption is less than a quart per oil change (~3000 miles).
If the pan drips about a teaspoonful per stop it's safe to ignore unless you don't like it "marking it's spot".
If the rear seal leaks a teaspoon or more per stop it's something you want to check at the very least daily.
The seal is pressurized and will obviously leak more when it is running. It will sling all over the inside of the bellhousing, slowly gathering at the bottom where it forms a puddle behind the stiffener plate. You can remove one of the rubber plugs in the plate and probe around for a puddle.
Standard acceptable oil consumption is less than a quart per oil change (~3000 miles).
If the pan drips about a teaspoonful per stop it's safe to ignore unless you don't like it "marking it's spot".
If the rear seal leaks a teaspoon or more per stop it's something you want to check at the very least daily.
The seal is pressurized and will obviously leak more when it is running. It will sling all over the inside of the bellhousing, slowly gathering at the bottom where it forms a puddle behind the stiffener plate. You can remove one of the rubber plugs in the plate and probe around for a puddle.
12-13-2021, 05:55 AM
#5
Registered User
Update. I ended up taking the truck to a trusted and experienced mechanic. He quoted me the full book price of @ $500 to replace the front seal and oil pump seal. He agreed to try to save $ by trying the method of bracing a wrench against the frame and using the starter to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, versus removing radiator and etc. He warned me, this may not work and even if it does there is no guarantee that in the end replacing the seals will fix the oil leak.
He could not loosen the bolt. It seems it was over torqued by previous mechanic when replacing timing chain. He removed the radiator and went thru 5 cycles of heat/impact wrench. Finally got it loose. He put on a new front seal and oil pump seal and now, thankfully the leak is gone/fixed. Cost $460.
Even though it was a minor leak...I feel better having it fixed.
Thanks to all who gave advice and etc!
He could not loosen the bolt. It seems it was over torqued by previous mechanic when replacing timing chain. He removed the radiator and went thru 5 cycles of heat/impact wrench. Finally got it loose. He put on a new front seal and oil pump seal and now, thankfully the leak is gone/fixed. Cost $460.
Even though it was a minor leak...I feel better having it fixed.
Thanks to all who gave advice and etc!
Last edited by markf1; 12-13-2021 at 05:57 AM.
12-13-2021, 10:49 AM
#6
Registered User
The starter trick always worked for me, but the only two trucks I needed to use it on were my 87's, both of which had factory bolts in them when I started the entire process. The pickup has had 3 or 4 replaced front seals so far, and the 87 4Runner just one. May be due to the pickup being my DD on an hour's highway drive, in Yuma, to and from work each day. Hard on trucks, believe me. It has 372,000 miles on it so far, still going strong.
I did get some really funny looks when it turned over every 100,000 mile mark. I'd pull over as soon as it turned over, wherever I was, and do the happy Toyota dance around my truck. The cops were, understandably, really curious as to just what the heck I thought I was doing.
Anywho, the mechanics where I worked showed me the starter trick, and I just always used it. It's quick, east, and doesn't take any special tools. Putting it back isn't bad, either. Truck in 4th or 5th, parking brake on, tires chocked, just get the breaker bar with extension on it, and gtg. Takes some physical effort on my part, though. Starter don't turn that way
Trick is to get the small, oil pump seal to stay in place while installing the oil pump. A small dab of thick, heavy grease in spots around the groove the seal sits in, though, and it stays in place like a well trained police dog.
Have fun, all!
Pat☺
I did get some really funny looks when it turned over every 100,000 mile mark. I'd pull over as soon as it turned over, wherever I was, and do the happy Toyota dance around my truck. The cops were, understandably, really curious as to just what the heck I thought I was doing.
Anywho, the mechanics where I worked showed me the starter trick, and I just always used it. It's quick, east, and doesn't take any special tools. Putting it back isn't bad, either. Truck in 4th or 5th, parking brake on, tires chocked, just get the breaker bar with extension on it, and gtg. Takes some physical effort on my part, though. Starter don't turn that way
Trick is to get the small, oil pump seal to stay in place while installing the oil pump. A small dab of thick, heavy grease in spots around the groove the seal sits in, though, and it stays in place like a well trained police dog.
Have fun, all!
Pat☺
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