troyjmueller

This may be a bit of a 'duh' question, but it might help some people out.

I have a parts rig, that had put 14" wheels & tires on it. Anyhow, this left a mark on the stock steering linkage components. (Deep grove on the edge of the tie-rod, tie-rod boots, and un-known on the calipers - they were in the back of the truck)

I am planning on using these parts (axles, transfer case, etc.) to convert my 2WD Tandem Axle hauling truck to 4WD, and I'd like to keep the 14" wheel size (to keep the truck just a bit lower than stock, for reasons of loading & un-loading, and center of gravity for the load).

Anyway, I know of at least 3 different steering linkage layouts.

1.) Stock 4WD SAS push-pull linkage, has some problems with placement of the steering box

2.) Stock 2WD Linkage, which, as I recall, is a straightforward pitman/Idler/Crossbar setup

3.) Stock IFS Linkage.

Does anyone know if the 2WD Linkage can work with the solid axle, and of any design which is compact enough to fit within a 14" rim?

Of course, someone with a welder, a bit of tools, and a bit of know-how can make anything fit anything, but it's easiest to use a ready-made stock-ish (or aftermarket) parts supply than to start from scratch...

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

2WD linkage will not work with a Solid Axle. You cannot use 2WD steering on a Solid axle since there is no where for the Idler to go, and it cannot move with the axle. Nor will any 14" wheel, ever. Get a 15" rim, its not THAT much larger. Stock 2WD is pretty much the exact setup as stock IFS steering, with smaller components.

troyjmueller

Thanks for the reply. Got to looking at my parts heap, and checked a couple of things.

Zero Interchange - 2WD arms bolt underneath the hub w/ 2 bolts, 4WD on top w/ 4 bolts.
Steering Gear placement MIGHT have one of the two horizontal frame bolt holes in comon, referenced to the frame, for stock placement

2WD Steering gear travels left & right, directly acting on the linkage bar

Steering Gear-Box MIGHT be usable in place of each other, as 4WD mounts to bracket, on top of the frame, while 2WD mounts directly to Frame on the side.

4WD Steering gear travels forward & back, turning drivers wheel, and tying to other wheel through 'J' arm & cross linkage.

2WD has Idler Arm, fixed to Frame, and 4WD relies on Right Hand Steering Arm to support cross-linkage bar.



and, a DOH! moment.

Wheel Off-set.

If I space the wheel away from the hub (or have a Dually-Style Wheel), where the hub off-set isn't as deep (or is pointed the other way), or I reverse the wheel, I won't have clearance issues with the steering linkage.

Presto - Problem solved.

I also get a wider front track, as the tire tread will be further away from the Vehicle centerline.

So, one way to achieve that goal....

As for potential problems, there would be a little bit more loading on the hub, with a bit more leverage, as the force upward is applied ~ 2" further away from the vehicle centerline on each side ... But I don't anticipate that being much of an issue. I don't hear of people frequently have problems breaking the front hubs on the toyota solid axles...

and,

the Brake Disk/Caliper/Hose will be more exposed to the elements, without having the wheel 'cupping' the assembly...