My truck is a fussy starter!
#1
My truck is a fussy starter!
I have a 1989 sr5 PU 4X4, and it chooses when it is going to start. When its not starting i can hear a clicking sound, almost like there isnt enough juice to run the starter. And it also makes a humming noise in the steering column. Ill let it sit for a few hours and try again and it'll fire right up like it had no problems. Where do I start??
Thanks guys,
Josh.
Thanks guys,
Josh.
#4
thanks for the thread, fricken jumped in my truck today for my second job job interveiw and my dam runner would not start, so i gace it the ole whammmooo with the wood side of a mallet and vroooom she started, got the job and came home and found this thread, so i pull the starter and pull it apart and bam, one brush is completely cut in half from being installed cattywampus, so tomorrow off i go to see the boys at the stealership and get me some new brushes, 25 bucks ta fix a 120 dollar starter aint bad
#5
ok i did the replacing the copper tabs and that didnt work so i replaced the starter, that didnt work. checked power to the starter and it gets 12 volts and the small wire gets 11.5, so my question is, wth is going on with my baby???? it starts sometimes and it wont start sometimes, this is a brand new starter and it still has issues, tried nuetral and everything, what in the sam heck is going on here? i can hear what sounds like the ecm clicking when i try to start it
#6
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
You are hearing the Circuit Opening relay click. It always clicks when you start the engine. Why are you only hearing it now? Easy, the starter is not running which makes a lot of noise, so no noise to mask the relay click. The CO relay send power to the fuel pump:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
11.5 volts are the solenoid is sort of a marginal value (the FSM specs less than a 1/2 volt drop):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
You might try this:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
As noted on that page, I ended up putting in a separate starter relay. My truck started fine unless I was on a downhill slope (like my driveway if I backed in) and then it would act up with the click and no start. Put in the relay and the starter has cranked over every time I turn the key and that has been the case for probably 4-5 years now. What does the relay do? In stock setup, you have 20+ amps of current flowing from the battery through your ignition switch down to any sort of clutch cancel relay or neutral start switch (if present) and then to the starter solenoid. If you put in a separate starter relay, you now only have 0.1 amps of current going through the factory circuit and then the added relay sends 20 amps to the starter solenoid, bypassing all the factory wiring. In my case, I figured it was easier to just add the relay and bypass whatever was causing my problem, than to spends hours/days/weeks trying to troubleshoot and hopefully repair that intermittent problem.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
11.5 volts are the solenoid is sort of a marginal value (the FSM specs less than a 1/2 volt drop):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
You might try this:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
As noted on that page, I ended up putting in a separate starter relay. My truck started fine unless I was on a downhill slope (like my driveway if I backed in) and then it would act up with the click and no start. Put in the relay and the starter has cranked over every time I turn the key and that has been the case for probably 4-5 years now. What does the relay do? In stock setup, you have 20+ amps of current flowing from the battery through your ignition switch down to any sort of clutch cancel relay or neutral start switch (if present) and then to the starter solenoid. If you put in a separate starter relay, you now only have 0.1 amps of current going through the factory circuit and then the added relay sends 20 amps to the starter solenoid, bypassing all the factory wiring. In my case, I figured it was easier to just add the relay and bypass whatever was causing my problem, than to spends hours/days/weeks trying to troubleshoot and hopefully repair that intermittent problem.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 07-30-2008 at 09:21 PM.
#7
You are hearing the Circuit Opening relay click. It always clicks when you start the engine. Why are you only hearing it now? Easy, the starter is not running which makes a lot of noise, so no noise to mask the relay click. The CO relay send power to the fuel pump:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
11.5 volts are the solenoid is sort of a marginal value (the FSM specs less than a 1/2 volt drop):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
You might try this:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
As noted on that page, I ended up putting in a separate starter relay. My truck started fine unless I was on a downhill slope (like my driveway if I backed in) and then it would act up with the click and no start. Put in the relay and the starter has cranked over every time I turn the key and that has been the case for probably 4-5 years now. What does the relay do? In stock setup, you have 20+ amps of current flowing from the battery through your ignition switch down to any sort of clutch cancel relay or neutral start switch (if present) and then to the starter solenoid. If you put in a separate starter relay, you now only have 0.1 amps of current going through the factory circuit and then the added relay sends 20 amps to the starter solenoid, bypassing all the factory wiring. In my case, I figured it was easier to just add the relay and bypass whatever was causing my problem, than to spends hours/days/weeks trying to troubleshoot and hopefully repair that intermittent problem.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
11.5 volts are the solenoid is sort of a marginal value (the FSM specs less than a 1/2 volt drop):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
You might try this:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
As noted on that page, I ended up putting in a separate starter relay. My truck started fine unless I was on a downhill slope (like my driveway if I backed in) and then it would act up with the click and no start. Put in the relay and the starter has cranked over every time I turn the key and that has been the case for probably 4-5 years now. What does the relay do? In stock setup, you have 20+ amps of current flowing from the battery through your ignition switch down to any sort of clutch cancel relay or neutral start switch (if present) and then to the starter solenoid. If you put in a separate starter relay, you now only have 0.1 amps of current going through the factory circuit and then the added relay sends 20 amps to the starter solenoid, bypassing all the factory wiring. In my case, I figured it was easier to just add the relay and bypass whatever was causing my problem, than to spends hours/days/weeks trying to troubleshoot and hopefully repair that intermittent problem.
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#8
You are hearing the Circuit Opening relay click. It always clicks when you start the engine. Why are you only hearing it now? Easy, the starter is not running which makes a lot of noise, so no noise to mask the relay click. The CO relay send power to the fuel pump:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
11.5 volts are the solenoid is sort of a marginal value (the FSM specs less than a 1/2 volt drop):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
You might try this:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
As noted on that page, I ended up putting in a separate starter relay. My truck started fine unless I was on a downhill slope (like my driveway if I backed in) and then it would act up with the click and no start. Put in the relay and the starter has cranked over every time I turn the key and that has been the case for probably 4-5 years now. What does the relay do? In stock setup, you have 20+ amps of current flowing from the battery through your ignition switch down to any sort of clutch cancel relay or neutral start switch (if present) and then to the starter solenoid. If you put in a separate starter relay, you now only have 0.1 amps of current going through the factory circuit and then the added relay sends 20 amps to the starter solenoid, bypassing all the factory wiring. In my case, I figured it was easier to just add the relay and bypass whatever was causing my problem, than to spends hours/days/weeks trying to troubleshoot and hopefully repair that intermittent problem.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
11.5 volts are the solenoid is sort of a marginal value (the FSM specs less than a 1/2 volt drop):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
You might try this:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
As noted on that page, I ended up putting in a separate starter relay. My truck started fine unless I was on a downhill slope (like my driveway if I backed in) and then it would act up with the click and no start. Put in the relay and the starter has cranked over every time I turn the key and that has been the case for probably 4-5 years now. What does the relay do? In stock setup, you have 20+ amps of current flowing from the battery through your ignition switch down to any sort of clutch cancel relay or neutral start switch (if present) and then to the starter solenoid. If you put in a separate starter relay, you now only have 0.1 amps of current going through the factory circuit and then the added relay sends 20 amps to the starter solenoid, bypassing all the factory wiring. In my case, I figured it was easier to just add the relay and bypass whatever was causing my problem, than to spends hours/days/weeks trying to troubleshoot and hopefully repair that intermittent problem.
#9
I have a 92 4runner and have gone through three alternators in the last year and a half. Times I try to start the truck and there is no clicking, nothing happens - I am sure it is the starter - and figure it may be killing the rebuilt alternators - so far everyone else that has had starting problems talks about the clicking noise with a no start - but I don't even get that - I try it two, three times and then it starts with no problem - weather doesn't seem to have an impact at all - and it only happens occasionally - any suggestions?
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