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Ignition module and coild (1984 22r)

Old 09-11-2015, 04:19 PM
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Ignition module and coil (1984 22r)

Okay guys i tried posting this before i had no replies im seriously confused . I got myself a toyota bible and figured out there were two types of igntitors and coils , i cant figure out which one im supposed to have or if i have the right one .




I have the type IV installed so when i went to replace it with a type III it didnt work because of the connectors .. I try to crank my engine and it is cranking but not acting like it wants to start at all . I took the distributer wire off and checked for a spark but no spark i checked my fuses and they are good as far as i can tell and my grounds are somewhat clean i just cant figure it out .. Any help would be GREATLY apreciated

Last edited by PBRaddict#1; 09-11-2015 at 04:22 PM.
Old 09-12-2015, 12:13 AM
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Red face

First has this ever run since you owned it ??

Answer this question and we will go from there.

You should pretty much match your coil and igniter with what is on these trucks the numbers are on the igniter .

Just because you own a certain year vehicle does not mean the engine is the one it came off the boat with .

Unless you bought it brand new !!
Old 09-12-2015, 06:37 AM
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It did run but it ran like garbage , hard to start , rough idle and at slower speeds it was surging forward uncontrollably then right in front of the driveway it just shut off , no sputtering , nothing idicating mechanical failure as far as i know
Old 09-14-2015, 08:31 AM
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are you sure your problem is an ignition issue and not a fuel issue?


1.did you check the fuel bowl on the carb (small sight glass on front of carb) to see if its about half-way full?


2.did you check all your vacuum lines? even if your 22r isn't a California model like mine im sure you have a lot of vacuum lines that if cracked or has a hole in it will cause the idle to surge and go up/down etc


your 1984 4runner (should have the type 3) . a lot of people me included upgrade to the newer model type IV I believe.


you can spray brake clean (propane is best) around your vacuum lines and if your idle raises you've found a leak.

Last edited by user 82300; 09-14-2015 at 08:32 AM.
Old 09-14-2015, 08:55 AM
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First off thanks for the replies , so i found out it was the timing chain that snapped on me -_- so im going to fix that i heard engine builder is good any other sugestions ?

So once i fix the timing chain if i still have surging idle ^^^ vacum leak check and carb check ? , i want to get a weber but im a little confused by the model names would any 32/36 with an manual or electric choke work? Thanks again
Old 09-14-2015, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PBRaddict#1
First off thanks for the replies , so i found out it was the timing chain that snapped on me -_- so im going to fix that i heard engine builder is good any other sugestions ?

So once i fix the timing chain if i still have surging idle ^^^ vacum leak check and carb check ? , i want to get a weber but im a little confused by the model names would any 32/36 with an manual or electric choke work? Thanks again


3 main types of webers for a mostly stock 20/22r manual, water,electric choke. Thy make a carb approved (emissions) one but only two companies....
Redline weber and lceperformance.com don't buy weber carbs direct they sell cheap knock off solex brands...

All you need is few metric wrenches, vacuum plugs and lock tire for some small bolts. I like lceperformance the best because they sell a few kits that comes with everything except some extra fuel Hise and vacuum lines. Very very easy I promise.

Replace all vacuum lines anyways super cheap for 5/32 hose which is 99% of it. Then spray propane or brake clean any change in idle shows a vacuum leak and go from there.
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