thedrewski86

So I just got my 94 4x4 truck home Tuesday night. It's got a 5 speed and the 22RE w/ 180k on it. The truck is in great shape, engine and trans run awesome and the body is even in good shape (I'll take pics if it ever stops raining around Chicago!).
I'm going to do my first oil change this Saturday and I'm trying to figure out what weight to get. The PO used 10w30 (Pennzoil FWIW) conventional which seems fine by me. I'm a synthetic guy myself, my motorcycle and my Chevy 9C1 all run full syn and have for years with great success. So what weight do I do? Someone recommended Shell Rotella 5w40 synthetic which I like the sound of. I would also be fine with 10w40 (Mobil 1 or whatever). Sounds like these will run on anything but I like to pick something and stick with it.
Keep in mind it's gonna get COLD here. This engine doesn't have overheating problems. I'll add some SeaFoam to the gas and oil at the time of the oil change.

xxxtreme22r

With 180k on the clock I wouldn't wanna run synthetic. People get mixed results running syn in high mileage engines.

I prefer to run 15-40 Rotella or Valvoline in mine in summer and drop down to 10-30 Valvoline in the winter.

I'm in pa and should have a "similar" climate in the winter as you. I also only have roughly 15k on a rebuilt engine. Been meaning to switch over to the newest Rotella T6 synthetic to try it out. But with the way oil prices are right now it's a little too pricey for me.

Also many people have had issues with the fram oil filters on our trucks. It appears most use the dealership's toyota oil filter or the pure one (yellow) oil filters.

On a side note, our BMW gets the same treatment oil wise as the yota. And that has 255k on the clock. It didn't like synthetic (5-40 Rotella). Tried it, it leaked oil like you wouldn't believe.

thedrewski86

What kind of issues with synthetic? I can't imagine it would actually hurt anything but I'm open to logic!
Yeah, I didn't get the Fram. Actually I always get K&Ns since they have that handy nut on the end. Those make my life easier.

xxxtreme22r

Synthetic flows better, therefore and large tolerances in the engine (ie rings/valve seals etc) it will find it's way through and engine will start to burn it. Unlike DINO oil. Then there is the whole leaking oil bit. Although I do believe it's a myth that synthetic oil causes seals and gaskets to dry out. And despite popular belief, it is also perfectly fine to switch back and forth between the two. I just believe it finds it's way through parts of the engine it really shouldn't since it does flow better. Afterall that's why syn was made in the first place.

Again this also depends on the real health of the engine as well. Which is why there are mixed results.

Again this is only my opinion and my personal experiences, however I have worked many years in the oil change business. And I wasn't one of those sales guys who just took your money, I'd never sell anything to someone I didn't feel needed it. I never pushed synthetic to high mileage vehicles because in the end it can have side effects that can come back to haunt you in the end.

Also these questions get asked on here quite a bit and there really is no correct answer. If you search around on here you'll find alot of others opinions.

thedrewski86

That sounds legit. I may go with conventional for this change. After all, I can always change down the line or do a blend. Thanks! Would you suggest 10w30 for the winter? I would be comfortable with that or 10w40.

xxxtreme22r

I never did like the idea of a blend oil. Reason being it's two things that weren't meant to be put together. My theory on the blends is if it could be put together, it could be easily broken apart, so I'd rather go with either DINO or full syn. Yes I know syn is man made too but..... Again my opinion.

thedrewski86

I agree with you there. I've never done a blend but it was suggested to me. I think I'll just go conventional.

xxxtreme22r

oh and reason being behind the Rotalla and/or Valvoline is the fact they have the highest zinc content (ZDDP) in the oil as far as normal everyday oil brands. Oil nowadays has less zinc etc etc in the oil due to emissions stuff I guess but those two brands haven't dropped off as far as the others out there.

Penz is parafin based (wax) and these engines can have the possibility to sludge up if your not careful. This just compounds that problem.

Castrol I believe isn't a petroleum based either. Although I had really good success with Castrol Syntec years ago in a SCCA solo 1 race car.

thedrewski86

Excellent. Sounds like if I go Valvoline 10w30 conventional I will be set. That's gonna be a heck of a lot cheaper too! I'll probably run the Rotella 5w40 as my summer weight.

xxxtreme22r

I wanna say the rotella 5-40 is a synthetic while the 15-40 is the dino. I do believe the newest rotella synthetic is a 10-40 or a 10-30 though. I can't remember. And don't let the fact the 15-40 rotella or valvoline is a diesel oil, because it's perfectly fine in a regular engine. Better IMO actually due to the fact it generally has better cleaning agents in it, higher resistance to higher engine temps and does well with moisure that might happen to get in the system.

tj884Rdlx

10-40 summer, 10-30 winter, 5-30 if you get a full month of below freezing temps. no synthetic, OEM filters, change every 4k unless you drive dirt roads daily, then 3k.

and drain it warm.

enjoy your new truck. welcome to the site.

CTRJ

268k miles on my 22RTE. The previous owner used 10w-30 conventional and I switched the truck over to 5w-40 Rotella synthetic. The truck runs great and hasn't leaked a drop. I'm working up to 5k oil change intervals. I always run a Toyota oil filter.

If you decide to run 10w-30 dino oil and like Valvoline, remember that Napa's house oil is made by Valvoline and when on sale is usually around $2 a quart.

thedrewski86

Hey man, thanks for the reply. I do like the sound of that, glad to hear the jump to synthetic was successful for you. When I bought my Impala it had 96k on it and I immediately went to Royal Purple 10w30/40 depending on the season. It runs great.

On the other hand $2/qt sounds nice! I think I'll do that for the oil change I do this weekend but I may go syn next year.

Nobody here uses K&N filters? I'm surprised; they're real handy especially if the filter is hard to reach. I had to for my Impala. The standard procedure for getting that filter off is removing the front passenger wheel to get access! Forget that, I'll use my extension and 1" socket

swampfox

My Toyota 4x4 has had castrol 5w-30 used in it for 240000 mi as stated by the po and the head and valve cover were both clean. I had a 90 chevy that had 161000 miles with penz and my Toyota 2wd had 160000 with castrol, the chevy was sludged up under the valve covers and my 2wd was clean . So what xxxtreme22r said about penz make a lot of sense.

thedrewski86

Yeah, that is interesting. I've never used Pennzoil but everyone I've known who swears by it coincidentally knows NOTHING about cars. Hmm.... marketing strikes again!

xxxtreme22r

lol yup marketing, they make you think that wax base in the oil coats your parts and protects better, and yup it coats the parts alright then burns leaving the sludge build up.

thedrewski86

Yeah!
I just picked up some Valvoline 10w30 conventional tonight. $20-something and I got a $7 rebate, sweet! I'm going back tomorrow for the same thing in synthetic for my Imp (which incidentally was the same price for 5 gal at AutoZone). That's way cheaper than $8.20/qt for Royal Purple...

xxxtreme22r

Believe it or not, around here I get my Valvoline and/or Rotella jugs from Walmart, it's usually the cheapest. But I have to get my oil filter at either Advance Auto or Pep Boys since they are the only ones that have the PureOne filters.

thedrewski86

I may check that tomorrow, AZ didn't have a 10w30 Rotella conventional but I may check around to see if they have synthetic for my car. I run Mobil1 in my car simply because I can only find RP half the time. I have no loyalty to Mobil1 whatsoever.
I spent a few minutes this evening fixing a few odds and ends that didn't bother the PO but bothered me: I fished out the driver's seat belt so the stupid buzzing would stop telling me to buckle up! I also had to replace a headlight. The only other known issues I need to address are a non-working cruise control (I think it's the switch) and a rusty e-brake. The PO was afraid to use it since it had never been used before him. I don't blame him.

xxxtreme22r

I believe you wont find a 10-30 rotella conventional, they don't make it. Only the 15-40. 5-40 syn and possibly the new 10-30 syn. if I remember right.