86yota321

I did do a search first on the old charge light problem and read through every thread that came up for it but still aren't finding a similar issue. Monday I was about halfway home from work and coming to a stop when all of a sudden the charge light came on. No brake light or anything else with it, charge only. My fuel and temp gauges both shut down and my blinkers don't work. Everything else is fine though. Fan, dome light, brake lights, head lights, dash lites etc. I was pulled in at a parking lot for about 15 minutes and when I started it back up, everything was back to normal and no charge light. Yesterday, ran to the store normal, then while driving back, it happened again. This morning when I turn the key to 'on' the only light I get is the charge light. No brake or oil light. Starts up just fine. Drove to work with no turn signals and now trying to narrow this down. From reading other threads I've got a list of things to start checking after work but I'm confused about losing my gauges and blinkers. Any thoughts?

86yota321

I just went out and pulled each fuse from the block in the cab and checked each one. All are good. Turned the key to 'on' and everything now works perfect. So, now I know that if this happens again to just pull fuses and put them back in for a quick fix, but I want to know exactly what is causing this. Also, if anyone either has a diagram or knows where to find one that labels each of the fuses could you let me know? Mine has never had one so I have no idea what each fuse is for.

rattlewagon

Check the wires going to your alternator with a volt meter. Make sure your alts puttin out power.

FuelforWar

sounds more like you have a bad connection somewhere. Cause if it was popping your fuses i'd say you have a short somewhere, but from just pulling them out and putting them back in, sounds more like your just moving some stuff around and getting contact again. I would clean all your contact points and replace all the fuses in your fuse box that are dingy or corroded. if that doesn't help trace all your wires back to the harrness and see if any are missing there protective coatings.

86yota321

Yesterday going home it happened again so I found a spot to pull over and start with the fuses again. I started at the top and pulled a fuse, put it back in then turned the key. I went through all of them like that and finally the very last one after I put it back in everything was good. Since I don't have a fuse block diagram and can't find one anywhere online, I'm guessing it's for the gauges and such. This morning I made it all the way to work just fine. Going to go get some new fuses today and this weekend check the connections behind the fuse block. Noticed some slight corrosion on most of the blades and I have a mix of 15, 20 and 30s down there that I don't think is right. Hopefully I can get that straightened out.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Search, fuse diagrams for my '85, should be pretty similar to the '86:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...tml#Electrical

86yota321

So in case anyone is following along at all this is what I have done. Picked up some new 15 amp fuses and 7.5. Out of 7 fuses in the block only 1 is a 30 and the rest 15. I know that 1 of those 6 need to be a 7.5 so the magic fuse that I pulled to make everything normal, I replaced with a 7.5 to see if it blows when the charge light comes on. Not sure if it will answer anything but it's worth a shot I guess. Going to stop by an auto electric place on my way home. The guy said he could probably find a diagram for the fuse box and told me their rates if I wanted them to work on it. We'll see how it goes.

86yota321

So I'm going to revive this one here because the original problem was solved but now it's back. I was able to get the fuse box diagram from the auto electric place and I replaced everything with new fuses and the correct ones. Everything has ben fine until today. On my way to work, charge light pops on, lose my signals, gauges and dash lights, pull over, pull the fuse but this time it's popped. So put a new one in, not 30 seconds later, pop! So I went through 3 fuses on the way to work which is only a 15 minute drive. It's the 'engine' fuse in the cab and I know that it is running from the alternator. So first off, tomorrow if I can find some time I'm going to yank the alt and go get it tested. If it tests out fine then what?

87-runner

I had a same problem on my 4runner except popping a fuse and charge light coming on. Turned out to be one of the relays in driver kickpanel, dont remember which one it was but theres only 2 or 3 relays in there.

86yota321

Last night heading home and coming to work this morning, everything was fine. Thursday morning we had alot of rain and water on the road when this was happening. I'm wondering if some of that water may be hitting a bare spot in a wire or something, causing it to short out? Last night and this morning was dry with no problems so that's what got me thinking water.

86yota321

I guess I'll just keep adding to this as I try to get it solved. Maybe it might help someone else down the road.
Sunday I took the alt down and had it tested. Passed. So I put it back in. I only pulled it out and then back into the driveway that day and things were fine. Yesterday going to work and to home, just fine. This morning backing out, the light came on again. I also noticed that my tach won't register above 2400 no matter how much it revs up. I did a very shotty job at splicing the tach wire in with the ig coil so I'm wondering if that's causing some issues. When I get to that I'll update. Any more thoughts are very welcome too.

86yota321

Alright, last night I disconnected my tach and popped in a new fuse. Didn't start the truck at all. This morning when I turned the key to 'on' I heard the fuse go. I din't even have a chance to start the engine. So, I started it up and put in a new fuse. Back to normal and made it to work no problem.

jonnydclark

Which fuse is popping? Is it supposed to be 7.5?

Its been too many years since my 1st gen but on my 3rd gen the fuse box under the hood has power coming into it from 2 different places. One comes from a 2nd (and smaller) wier connected to the + side of the battery. If you have something similar it sounds like you could be loosing connection which would explain why you don't have charge and some features while other features are still working. I can't explain why it would pop a properly sized fuse if it is just a weak connection but pulling and replacing the fuse might move /vibrate the box enough to get a connection back.

86yota321

The fuse that keeps blowing is the 'engine' fuse 15a. Din't know about that smaller wire from the battery. From trying to understand the diagrams, it looks like the power runs from the alt to the fuse box for that fuse. So I've been trying to narrow things down in that area.

hamish_18

are you sure your regulator isn't bad on your alt? When they go bad, it can cause overvoltage and undervoltage. Thats what it sounds like if you can confirm there are no wore through wires shorting it out.

86yota321

I was wondering about that regulator. Wouldn't a bad regulator show up when you get the alt tested?

86yota321

This is starting to become a daily diary for me here, lol.
This weekend I'm going to switch out my alt with a spare that I have. Wondering if maybe the regulator is bad in this one. The fact that this problem is so intermittent doesn't make sense to me. It can work one day, then the next day I'm popping fuses. I know it's bad to do what I did this morning but I took a gamble and threw in a 30a fuse in place of the 15, just to get me to work, and drove about 50 yards in a parking lot and popped that 30. So either the regulator has a random burst of overcharge or I am grounding out somewhere between the alt and the cab fuse panel. I just need a whole weekend to take the time needed to go through everything.
This sucks

86yota321

Switched out alternators last night.
Made it to work with no issues this morning.

clever-carlos

so did you ever pin point the exact problem.. cause im having the exact same problem... bought a new alternator.. and same thing im gonna try the 7.5 fuse tomorrow and see if i can find the relays in driver kickpanel... where is the kick panel can any tell me exactly or a picture thanks

86yota321

Turned out to be an issue with the old alt. After switching it out with another one I haven't had a problem since. Kick panel is right under the dash between the door and the firewall. 2 screws and it comes right off and if your lucky the fuse diagram should be on the inside cover. Good luck!