surf4life

Aloha YT friends,
I recently got a new job and will have to be doing some serious commuting in my 93 pickup. I am going to try to, over a few weeks, do some routine things to my truck to keep it in good shape for the extra miles I'm going to have to put on it. I will list the first two things I consider priority, my current odb codes and would ask that if any of you have suggestions about any other maintenance actions please let me know and I will be happy to follow your lead.


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Truck Specs:

Make: Toyota
Model: Pickup
Year: 1993
Body: Regular Cab
Trans.: Manual
Miles: ~220k
Mods: 3" Body Lift by Previous Owner -> no steering column cover now and some throw when shifting (worst downshifting into 1st)

Current ODB Code(s):
Pulled the codes and the sequence is - I I I I I I I (~1s) I (~3s) I I I I I I I (~1s) I (~3s)...repeating = ODB1 code of 71 which is -
EGR VALVE MALFUNCTION
-EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE BELOW SPEC. FOR EGR CONTROL
-EGR SYSTEM
-EGR GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT
***Note, per the following thread I performed the hose test and it passed. Replaced the hose to the EGR valve just in case but still get the code***

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...or-cap-295733/

Current Maintenance Actions to be Performed:

1. Replace Distributor Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs and Wires.
2. Replace Valve Cover Gasket - There is oil leaking (not heavily but enough) from around the valve cover. While I am in there if there is anything else worth looking into/fixing/changing please let me know and I will do my best to fix it while I have the valve cover/EFI off. I am currently burning about ~1/2 qt. of oil per ~1.5k miles.
3. Any other suggestions? (i.e. timing chain guide replacement/upgrade seems to be a popular suggestion at my mileage). Please don't say rebuild engine, cant afford it and I am not there yet. Just trying to do the cost effective preventative maintenance things here to keep my baby running smoothly. I will get to a full on rebuild later this year and have a mechanic to help assist so no worries.

Parts Source (going all OEM):

http://stores.revolutionparts.com/pa...-l4-gas-engine

This is the most affordable place I've found for OEM parts. Even with shipping they are 50% cheaper than the only Toyota Dealership Parts Dept. on island. Ridiculous markups over here.

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This is the start and where I'm planning on going. Thank you in advance for taking the time to read my thread and provide help. I am beyond grateful to you all for all the help over the last couple years; you are all legends!

Aloha ke akua

L5wolvesf

Valve adjust and yes get the timing chain out of the way while you're in there. Check the cover to see if it gouged from a possibly slack chain.

surf4life

So perform the valve adjust while im in there? Can you point me to a writeup? I will search forums now. For the timing chain assembly, do you have a preference between engbldr and lcengineering? Ive heard good things about both and Ted seems pretty solid and helpful.

L5wolvesf

It's been a while since I did mine and I just went by my Haynes manual. I would imagine there is a write up here too.

When I've done timing chains I've used local sources like NAPA.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Get a new oring for the distributer cap also, it should help wirh your condensation problems. You can also swipe some gasket goop on the pickup coil boot where it protrudes.

you still have the bad egr temp sensor. This is the object sticking up fro the rear of the intake. Do a resistance check on it, make sure the terminals inside both sides of the plug are bright clean and shiney metal, then tighten them up by bending the female side of the lugs inward so they clamp tight to the male spade and flud it with dielectrical grease(water proofing silicon) since your either in the desert or rain forest and maybe both daily (gotta love hawaii)...

Check the valve lash, but dont try todo the adjustment. Just get familiar with the proceedure by doing the measuring and engine rotation. So once you have a bit more grease and petrol in your blood you know what you are looking at and for the next time. Basicly a confidence building exercise.

With a longer commute it likely means your going to be sitting in the "conga line" traffic going from one side of the island to the other, which translates to lots of sitting in slow or stopped traffic sucking up hot exhaust..

Check your coolant hoses are not weaping and the clamps are in good shape (carry extra hose clamps and 3 gallons of water, they will save your butt one day or make you a hero)

New belts all around and or as spares.

Run some water (low pressure) from the backside of the radiator to flush out all the built up junk/bugs.

if your fan shroud is damaged, not fully screwed on, or missing now is the time to take care of that also.

Check the fan clutch, you might need todo this in the middle of the night or after running some cold water over it.. When hot it should have substancial drag compared to cold.

83

Timing chain is a big job, depending on what kind of work you've done before. It's not just a tune up thing. It's real engine work. Once you have the valve cover off, get a flashlight and see if you can tell the condition of the guides. Do you know when the chain was last done? I had one break once. You don't want that to happen

Valve adjust is pretty easy. Yes, just get a manual and follow it. Replace the half-moon gaskets while you're in there doing the valve cover gasket, just in case you didn't already plan on it. And don't forget the RTV on those.

Do you have emissions testing? Did you pull the egr valve? Is it stuck open or closed?

If you're truck has been more or less well-maintained, I think you'll be in good shape with what you're planning. If I have a big road trip coming up, or have just bought a new used vehicle, that's the typical stuff I do. Plugs, wires, disty cap and rotor, set timing, adjust valves, change all fluids, check all belts and hoses.

surf4life

Yes...love living in HI, originally from Durango and that is not a bad place either . Ok I will perform the checks listed above and keep the thread posted on my progress. Do you agree with the suggestion to just get the timing chain done while im in there? Seems to make sense as I'm at 220k and most threads I read on timing chain are from 180k-300+k. Thanks so much for the detailed response/advice, u da man! Mahalos!

surf4life

Posted a link to thread where I answered the EGR question: it was operating fine. Is that what you are asking? Shoots, I forgot about the half moon gaskets. Those are located below the valve cover gasket on the corners or something right?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Code 71 says its not reading the required temp, so its not opening as it should. They have already verified the valve will open when vacuum is manually applied.

I forgot about that egr modulator in the first post. You will want to clean the filter there under the cap. It can stop the egr system from operating.

surf4life

"Timing chain is a big job, depending on what kind of work you've done before. It's not just a tune up thing. It's real engine work. Once you have the valve cover off, get a flashlight and see if you can tell the condition of the guides. Do you know when the chain was last done? I had one break once. You don't want that to happen "
- I have no idea. The previous owner was not too open about everything. I have a solid mechanic friend over here who has volunteered to help assist me in this so I will have a manual, full tool set, garage and a mechanic so I'm not worried.

"Do you have emissions testing? Did you pull the egr valve? Is it stuck open or closed?"
- Purchased this truck in SoCal in april 15 before I moved over here to Kauai. The last emissions test was all green with new catalytic that appears to have been welded on by a 5yo. I'll post pics of the horrendous beads later. One thing I did notice was the muffler is missing the exhaust pipe :x Safety checks in HI don't require emissions tests thank God.

83

Alright, sounds like you'll be in good hands.

The only time I messed around with EGR, it was on an 83, so I didn't have codes to work with. I just noticed it was stuck closed. And I just left it that way. Lazy man's "EGR delete".

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Aloha,

Timing chain is not a bad idea but it usually leads to other stuff at the same time, oil pump & water pump. Engnbldr has great parts and very good prices. Shipping obviously hurts going over there. LCE also has great parts but they seem to want more money for them. If it were me and I had a mechanic friend on tap I would inspect to make sure the guide on the driver side is not broken and then leave it alone. If it is broken then do the front end. You should be able shine a flashlight down the front after you pull the valve cover. A small but of RTV goes on the 1/2 moon gaskets, one located on the front of the head and one on the back. Do your best to carefully remove all the old RTV before you reinstall the new 1/2 moon gaskets. You DON'T want loose bits of RTV floating around in you oiling system. I personally always allow RTV to dry overnight before starting the motor up.

Before you tackle anything in the engine compartment it's a good idea to take a few pictures of it. And then also take pictures as you disassemble areas. This will help later as you put it back together. Calves are fairly easy you just need to decide if your going to do the hot (factory recommended) or cold. If hot I would have your friend there for your first time and do them when you pull the valve cover for the gasket swap.

Good on you for wanting to use OE parts. These older trucks don't seem to run as well on other parts. Bosch seems to make great parts for everything but older toyotas. Dense, Aisin, & NGK seem very solid. I run ENGNBLDR's motor parts (water & oil pumps, bearings in the bottom end, basically I rebuild my motor with them) and it's DNJ and they work very well for me.

And remember if you love Kauai tell everybody Maui is awesome.