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I had already replaced the coolant temp sensor last month due to it being wobbly. I don't know why the code came back again. I cleared it out to see if it comes back again.
Today I removed the EGR and soaked the valve in carb cleaner for an hour. While soaking it, I noticed fluid would run easily through the valve and the diaphragm was still working good. After installing, it ran about the same at idle but with a slight touch of the throttle, it torqued over and ran strong and smooth. The problem is, it only needed a millimeter of throttle movement to make that happen. So, thinking I had the right section in my Toyota 85 FSM, I adjusted the TPS without feeler gauge to read 0.5k ohms between E2 & VTA terminals. This made it worse. After reading a little further it says to use 0.018" feeler gauge between the stop screw and the lever, measuring between E2 & IDL, and turn the TPS clockwise until it deflects the meter. I'm assuming this means it goes to infinity? Or is continuous? Bad FSM.. I got this copy online. I will go redo the TPS adjustment as soon as I get up the motivation again. So confusing.... Any other ideas?
4crawler has the best writeup I've seen. Just Google '4crawler TPS' and you'll find it.
set throttle body stop screw 1/4 turn from closed position.
set TPS at open circuit (infinite resistance) point with 4.5mm(0.018") feeler gauge between stop screw and lever, checked when done.
set air gap on distributor to 0.012"
set plug gap to 0.031"
set timing to 6 degrees adv. with T & E short wire at 650 RPM cause it won't idle any higher.
Results:
1) stumbles like the EGR is open at idle and eventually dies if I don't help it.
2) Revs great. Strong and smooth.
3) Can't raise idle using the idle screw anymore (maxed out) has no effect.
something tells me 1) and 3) are not related
I did look at the ECU connections to make sure there wasn't any dirt or corrosion. All sparkling.
good catch. I screwed up. went out to garage remembering what I read in the FSM. I'll reset it this morning. @ 0.85mm (0.0335") open circuit. Thanks. hope that does it.
Ok, got the TPS dialed in and started it up. Still rough idle but otherwise good. I took it out to try and burn off some carbon from the EGR valve and that actually worked. Still not perfect so I'm going to put a tank of premium in and some seafoam and drive it for a half an hour on the freeway. Also, noticed that the water temp bearly rose above the C line while driving. So I checked temperatures on the engine with an infrared temp gun. I got 165 on the thermostat housing and 184 on top of the radiator tank. Even though the temp out side is only in the 50's, I think that the engine should be warm after hard driving for 15 minutes. Also, the owner complained that it has always run cold. I'm thinking the kid she had put the motor in didn't include a thermostat. He has a record on this project of many screw ups. Thank you everyone for getting me this far.
side note: where can I download a copy of the 88 FSM
Last edited by mitch88RN63; 01-07-2017 at 06:50 PM.
I can't remember where I found my copy of the 85 FSM but if there is a way to post that as a downloadable here, let me know.
I did some further checking this morning to complete my perfection of the idle since it was still not perfect yesterday. I found the BVSV is open all the time which it should only be open after it reaches 106F I believe. Anyway, that would keep the EGR open when cold. So, I ordered one.
I also found that the cold start injector time switch was showing too much resistance when cold (80ohms). It should be 20-40ohms. This part is $145 so I am looking for a sweet way to bypass it. I have an idea to run two wires from the connector to the dash and put a small switch in the cab and label it winter/summer. Any ideas are appreciated.
I also checked the vacuum switch for the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and found it to be leaking internally. I took it apart and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner and lubed it with WD40 and reassembled it. It now works great. What I am not sure of is what the switch actually does. Why would you want to turn the regulator on and off?
I also removed the thermostat and found the kid that installed the engine bought a 180F thermostat and I believe it came with a 190F from factory. I noticed that the expensive Toyota dual valve thermostat is rated at 190F so, that makes sense to me. I will buy a standard 190F thermostat and drill a small hole in it. Is that what everyone else is doing? I took apart the blue vacuum switch on the right since it was not holding vacuum and was able to clean it and solve the internal leak. I'm sure that saved me a lot of money. The one on the left was working fine. BVSV, probably original like all the rest of the stuff I've been replacing this week. The bailing wire is to keep the cold start injector time switch connector from falling off.
All in all, I had a very satisfying morning finding all these problems that will improve the gas mileage and driving experience of this sweet little pickup. Thanks for all the help and encouragement.
Good job finding all those issues. I think replacing the bvsv will make a noticeable difference at idle.
My experience with the vsv for the fpr, is that it's really not necessary. I've been told by people who know much better than me that it wasn't included on 2wd trucks. I haven't noticed any difference since removing mine but since you cleaned yours and made it work keep it.
I'd probably pull a cold-start time switch from a donor engine. They're so easy to access and I bet you can find a used one for $5-$10. If you want, I can ask the parts hoarder if he has a spare. I'll test it before sending it your way.
Yeah the spec says the ohms should measure 20-40 when cold < 86F. I would be interested for that price. I would rather do that than leave it up to the owner. She doesn't understand cars.
I agree, the EGR will be out of the picture till the engine warms up and the RPMS rise above 2500. That will make all the difference. I am now understanding this little engine and it isn't as daunting as it was in the beginning thanks to the experts on this site that have helped me in the last few days. Still looking for the 88FSM if anyone knows where to find one.
I also noticed oil coming from the fan clutch so I ordered one from RockAuto for $28. I read a bunch about going to electric but I don't want to spend a lot on the control module when I know it is a simple logic circuit that measures the thermocouple and decides weather to close the relay on the fan or not. I would build mine but that wasn't my specialty in school. Getting rid of the loud whirring and the rotating weight would be nice.
Firstly there are variations in the test specs for the time switch, and it appears you used the 22R-TE spec. The RE version has a roughly linear curve between 30-90ohm and its temp range, where the ohm reading translates to the temperature in F'.
RE. 30-50 ohm at 50* or lower, 70-90 ohm at or above 77*
RTE. 20-40 ohm at 30c or lower, 40-60 ohm at or above 40c
Notice one is a metric sensor?
My other concern is the ground path. The sensors need good clean and firm electrical connection to the engine.
The csts shown above has a heavy scale or pipe-dope layer between it and the intake.
I tested it both in the engine and then after cleaning it with lime away out of the engine and got the same thing 80 ohms @ 50*F. That still fails your RE spec of 30-50 ohm at 50* or lower. My spec said nothing about TE.
I tested it both in the engine and then after cleaning it with lime away out of the engine and got the same thing 80 ohms @ 50*F. That still fails your RE spec of 30-50 ohm at 50* or lower. My spec said nothing about TE.
Here are the two I have access to on this device, for completeness and comparison.
. 1995 FSM 88 FSM
There is a ten ohm difference in the parts, pre 86 and turbo 20-80, post 86 and post 89 30-90. Wether those are typographical errors or a legitimate engineering change I do not know. But it makes sense to me there would be fuel requirement changes due to the main injectors being different, flow rates, duty time, and power requirements. Without the engineering documents for the ECU it's only speculation if there are corisponding changes there also in the circuit or software filter/algorithms.
Well according to all of the specs that we both have, my time switch fails as stated before. I get 80 ohms at 50 degrees F. That's too high for the temperature range. This, from what I have read, is the common failure mode of this device. Regardless of engineering changes, typos....., it fails all the above specs. But thanks for showing us that you have an 88 FSM.
By the way, where did you get your 88 FSM? How bout making it available to us?
There are PDF links in the FSM sticky thread, if the sites down, gone or just no longer has the file you can pull them from the wayback machine at archive.org usually, Google s cache, and or scribd are good too.
I was waiting for a minute to see if the new info on the cold start sensor would rule that out as a cause, but it looks like you want to replace it so I'm emailing local parts guy now for you.
After installing the new BVSV and relocating the EGR modulator to the front, where I was able to eliminate 8 of the 18 vacuum hose connections associated with the EGR, it now runs without missing and idles smoothly.
I had no idea there were so many hose connections associated with the EGR until I started staring at it for hours. Now I can finally see the motor. I also relocated the two vacuum switches closer to the device they were controlling which also cleaned things up. Still in the process of painting the valve covers so please no negative remarks. I plan to sand them with 1500 grit once the paint cures.
I am still interested in a new time switch for the cold injector. I can tell it is not getting that extra boost on start up.
01-06-2017, 04:34 PM
