leeburdette

I'm still trying to figure out what is going on with my wife's 4runner blower motor. I have replaced the motor twice and still having the same issues, but I have it narrowed down to the specific problem.
The blower will only run in the 3 lowest speeds. When I try to push the high speed, it runs on high for about 10 seconds then shuts off completely. If I reset it by hitting the off button, I can turn it back on any of the 1st 3 speeds and it will work indefinitely, but if i hit the high speed again i get the 10 secs then off again.
Anyone have any idea whats going on? I was told it couldn't be the resister because it would only work on high.

RAD4Runner

By "narrow down", you mean:

• You verified that indeed you motor is bad before replacing it? Look up typical winding resistance and compare with your actual motor.
• You verifed that your resistor and switch are indeed OK? Inspect them. They may have a cold solder or a break in filament so that it barely makes contact. When filament/contact heats up after little load, it may open up some more and open the circuit.

leeburdette

Narrowed it down as in its only shutting off on the high speed. Origionally when my wife told me, she said she heard a funny noise and smelled something wierd then it shut off. after a couple days it was working again but would change speeds and do weird things. I was told by a mechanic that it was more than likely the blower motor. I changed it. It was working for a couple days then started the same things(sometimes worked, sometimes didn't). another mechanic told me I may have gotten another bad blower motor, so I exchanged it for another new one. It is doing the same thing, but I narrowed it down to the high speed setting only. I thought it was all speeds because I use the auto function a lot and when it would change speeds, sometimes it would shut off.
I was also told by another mechanic that it shouldn't be the resister because if it goes bad the motor only runs on one speed(high). The 06 has a weird looking resistor. it only has something that looks like a heat-sink on the top like you would see on a sound amp. Just aluminum looking fins and no coils like I have seen on other resistors, so I could not tell if it looked fine or not. It is also ridiculously expensive for some reason on this year otherwise I would just pick one up and try it to see if it worked.
Is there anything else you can think of that may be causing the problem?

j2the-e

Did you check the wiring in the connector to the resistor? Take a pic of the female side and post it up.

RAD4Runner

Definitely check all connections^^.

After all the mechs' failed guesses - that you probably paid for , it's time to break out the schematic so fellow members who are not making money off of you could help troubleshoot properly

If the mech does not verify by actual testing/measurement, the probability that he is guessing is greater than probability of you getting another defective OEM motor if brand-new.

We could neither agree nor disagree with your mech without looking at your schematic.

Correct; You will not see the resistor. The actual resistor (possibly a resistive coil embedded in ceramic) would be inside that aluminum housing. The heat sink (fins, etc) simply dissipates the heat.

The resistor should have a few terminals connected to the selector switch. Need to check continuity/resistance between each of the terminals. Need help from fellow 2006 owners to see what good resistance should be. (On first-gens, each resistor segment is about an ohm.)

Resistance varies with temperature so, while resistance check is OK, it's best to take voltage measurements under operating conditions.

Again we'd need your schematic for that.

Exactly the reason why we should check the schematic and verify with objective tests/measurements before replacing parts.

I'm confident there fellow 2006 owners out there kind enuf to share their schematics. High resolution please; not everyone has 20-20 vision - LOL! 1280 x 900 pixels on photobucket would do. Do not use Yotatech album, it allows only lower resolution.

leeburdette

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll try to get a pic of the connector this weekend and post it. My father in law works on electronics and he gave me a good volt meter for my birthday last year, but I'm not too good at that kind of thing and it's still in the box . He lives about an hour away, so if I cant figure it out this weekend I may just have to drive it down to him and have him help me with it.
Do I need to disconnect the harness from the back of the climate control panel and the resister to check the wireing or just the resister and chech the (volts or Ohms) on each wire at the resister clip while running the switch thru the different speeds?
Again, Thanks for all your help. I don't have much time to work it myself, but i'm going to try to look at it some more this weekend.

j2the-e

My suggestion is to look at the connector that is on the resistor. Its easy. Just disconnect it and look to see if it's burnt. If it is, it will be very obvious.

leeburdette

This is driving me crazy. Well, we haven't been using the high setting because thats the setting that shuts it down. Now when I take my tester out this weekend, everything's working fine again. I pulled the harness off the resistor and it looks fine. Doesn't smell burnt or anything. Checked the voltage input to the resistor thru all 4 speeds and it is good, I checked the output from the resistor to the fan motor thru all 4 speeds and its stepping down fine looks good, etc.
So, the problem is sporadic. sometimes it wont work for a few days to weeks, then its fine again for a few days to weeks.????

RAD4Runner

Circuit breaker going bad?
Got schematic? Got circuit breaker?
Check if you have another circuit breaker with similar mounting and current rating as your blower circuit breaker? Switch them.

leeburdette

When you say circuit breaker, is that the same thing as the blower motor relay? If it was going bad, would it not work on any speed? Where would I get a schematic?

RAD4Runner

We hope that other owners of 2006 would be kind enough to share their schematics. This would show whether there's a circuit breaker for blower or not. Can't really tell unless we see schematic. I have a first-gen but not 2006 schematic

IF, all is good, and only IF there is a defective circuit breaker, high setting may draw enough current to trip a defective circuit breaker. When circuit breaker resets, High will run again, until it sees current to trip it again.

j2the-e

you can get the wiring diagram here:
techinfo.toyota.com
purchase a 2 day subscription and print the entire repair manual if you have the desire

j2the-e

you can get the wiring diagram here:
techinfo.toyota.com
purchase a 2 day subscription and print the entire repair manual if you have the desire

leeburdette

"you can get the wiring diagram here:
techinfo.toyota.com"

Went to the site and got a warning that they have an invalid security certificate.

Thanks RAD4, I looked around and didn't see anything that looked like a circuit breaker, and I did a part search online and came up with nothing for my year. I guess that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't have one, because what you said makes a lot of sense since the breakers generally reset themselves when turned off.

It hasn't quit working again since I checked all the connections Saturday, but I'm sure its just a matter of time as it has been. I think I will call the dealer service and ask them if they know if there is a circuit breaker on the 06. In my experience They usually aren't much help because they always want you to bring it in.

RAD4Runner

Any update on continuity checks on blower resistor?
Does problem occur wheneevr blower is on on only when you're suing AC at full blast?
A thread on yotatech mentions A/C Cut-Off Relay. Gotta see you schematic if that applies to you.

you don;t seem to get much help from fellow 2006 owners on Yotatech

You might have better luck on www.T4R.org where they talk more about later gens.

Or go first-gen; there's better knowledge base for it

j2the-e

I would ignore that warning. Its a trusted site. Operated by Toyota. Same website all the dealers use for info

RAD4Runner

Agree with j2the-e.
leeburdette,
It could just because your service provider (or office firewall) does not know/trust the site.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Guess 2006 is still pretty new for most of us here.



Maybe no one has the schematics for that year.

:jessica::jessica: Maybe you got lucky and had a loose connection that now has been fixed.From taking apart the connectors .

RAD4Runner

Yep, a possibility, too.

leeburdette

The problem first started in January when my wife was using the heat at the high setting. I always went out and started the trucks and let them warm up and thaw. She had to shut hers off for a min before she left and said that when she turned it back on, she smelled a weird burning smell and strange noise. She said she turned off the blower on her way to work and it hasn't worked right since. That smell and sound is what prompted me to change the motor in the 1st place but there is definitely something else going on.

I don't think it's a bad connection that i fixed by pulling the connectors and resetting them because I have had them apart before and still had the problem after.

Time will tell. Thanks.