ZUK Mod - No Cut - 96-98 Runner Coil Springs
#1
ZUK Mod - No Cut - 96-98 Runner Coil Springs
Got around to doing the zuk mod after a friend of mines gave me a brand new set of 96-98 (NOT 99) runner coil springs
they are 16 inches long. i didnt have to cut or do any mods. just install them which is awesome
i had a 1 inch sag in the rear and after the install i wanna say it raised it 4 inches. anyone know how much lower the rear fender is cut compared to the front? this will give me a better idea of how much these springs raised the rear
top of rear fender to top of rim is 14 inches
dont drive this runner often but it does ride a little bit softer, just a little. guess being 16 inches compared to the normal 14 inch spring, its not as soft
doesnt make any noise and it does clear the tires
UPDATE: looks like my pictures got lost. i just post up some pictures for compression
my buddy helping me out at work
bottom of rear fender to top of 15inch rim
stock with 32s
zuk mod rear only
BJ spacer (t-bar never adjusted) Zuk Mod Rear OME shocks all around
current set up= blazeland LT and zuk mod rear
they are 16 inches long. i didnt have to cut or do any mods. just install them which is awesome
i had a 1 inch sag in the rear and after the install i wanna say it raised it 4 inches. anyone know how much lower the rear fender is cut compared to the front? this will give me a better idea of how much these springs raised the rear
top of rear fender to top of rim is 14 inches
dont drive this runner often but it does ride a little bit softer, just a little. guess being 16 inches compared to the normal 14 inch spring, its not as soft
doesnt make any noise and it does clear the tires
UPDATE: looks like my pictures got lost. i just post up some pictures for compression
my buddy helping me out at work
bottom of rear fender to top of 15inch rim
stock with 32s
zuk mod rear only
BJ spacer (t-bar never adjusted) Zuk Mod Rear OME shocks all around
current set up= blazeland LT and zuk mod rear
Last edited by ToyoTech559; 10-11-2013 at 09:10 AM.
#5
you might be right on the shocks because my dad did change the shocks out to some aftermarket ones like 10+ years ago so they are not the oem ones. you think i should replace them all with factory shocks or buy aftermarket? i can get like factory new shocks for cheap with all new hardware
yea it does make a huge difference lol. cant wait to hit some trails to see how the rear hitch clears now. i still need to crank the front torsion to see if i can even her out if not i can do BJ spacers as well
they should be rears. they are the updated 96-98 runner springs that are from the 20a recall. they where never installed in a customers runner cuz he didnt have oem springs so we couldnt do it.
yea it does make a huge difference lol. cant wait to hit some trails to see how the rear hitch clears now. i still need to crank the front torsion to see if i can even her out if not i can do BJ spacers as well
they should be rears. they are the updated 96-98 runner springs that are from the 20a recall. they where never installed in a customers runner cuz he didnt have oem springs so we couldnt do it.
Last edited by ToyoTech559; 05-30-2011 at 10:07 AM.
#6
Registered User
Any new shocks will help your ride a lot. I don't have a preference, except to save money. I would buy the best you can get for the cheapest price, including aftermarket.
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#8
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Nice! Toyotech
I see you had to use coil compressors to get it in place....guess that means it's never going to come out on its own. The more lift you get from coils means the less effect the leafs have on the ride softness....you have a good 4 inches and that means the leafs are probably doing very little load support so your ride softness should be very good. Like DJ99 said, maybe the shocks are cruddy? I know that the 5100 series Bilsteins are excellent for ride quality but they do command a big price tag. I like the way those 99 Runner coils just slip right in.....the pigtail on the bottom is not a "clean fit" and seems to rest some weight on the one u-bolt but I see no issue with that....well, I should have said it wasn't a clean fit...it's probably the best fit a pigtail will do with the 2 u-bolts right next to it.....that's what I mean to say. So all in all, I like the simplicity of that coil install
I see you had to use coil compressors to get it in place....guess that means it's never going to come out on its own. The more lift you get from coils means the less effect the leafs have on the ride softness....you have a good 4 inches and that means the leafs are probably doing very little load support so your ride softness should be very good. Like DJ99 said, maybe the shocks are cruddy? I know that the 5100 series Bilsteins are excellent for ride quality but they do command a big price tag. I like the way those 99 Runner coils just slip right in.....the pigtail on the bottom is not a "clean fit" and seems to rest some weight on the one u-bolt but I see no issue with that....well, I should have said it wasn't a clean fit...it's probably the best fit a pigtail will do with the 2 u-bolts right next to it.....that's what I mean to say. So all in all, I like the simplicity of that coil install
Last edited by ZUK; 03-28-2011 at 03:53 PM.
#10
Registered User
That right there just cracks me up! As much push-back as I've seen on other forums with regards to the Zuk mod I just had to laugh. You saying that is like Lewis turning to Clark and saying "I like the simplicity of mapping this river, perhaps someday cartography will be accepted as a common practice." And a hundred years later it was. Maybe in a year or two you'll be the Lewis and Clark of coil spring mods on a Toyota!
#12
Registered User
You have to understand something Zuk. Your coil mod makes the leaf pack pushers mad like those guys at TreadWright make the big tire makers mad. It's a better system, a better upgrade and a better way to do things while saving piles of money.
Let them all eat cake.
Let them all eat cake.
#14
Registered User
Toyotech559 - $20 bucks for Toyota shocks sounds like a great price. I think Bilsteins would run over $200 for a set, so go for it. Let us know what kind of a difference it makes.
FYI, My "ZUK" mod cost about $40 bucks with ebay purchased Jeep TJ front shocks cut down to 12". I haven't regretted it in the least. Many thanks to ZUK!
swerks - My springs were just a bit noisy over big bumps at first while the top coils settled in around the bump stop. Now, they rarely make noise.
FYI, My "ZUK" mod cost about $40 bucks with ebay purchased Jeep TJ front shocks cut down to 12". I haven't regretted it in the least. Many thanks to ZUK!
swerks - My springs were just a bit noisy over big bumps at first while the top coils settled in around the bump stop. Now, they rarely make noise.
Last edited by DJ99; 03-25-2011 at 04:19 PM.
#15
my plan was to keep it quick and easy to install. i only wanted to remove the shock and hope that it was compressed enough to just wedge in with a pry bar lol. after removing the shock and only seeing it drop an inch if that, i was like crap. so i took the u bolts off and dropped the diff and noticed that the leaf springs only come down so far lol. spring compressor is need if you want to make it less of a fight. you can rent these for free at most auto stores, my buddy had one so it used them.
another way would just remove the shocks and maybe one shackle and drop the rear end enough to just slide the coil springs in
yep those are 32x11.50 BFG All Terrains and i love them so far in the snow
they dont make any noise at all even at low speeds going over monster bumps
i was thinking of cutting these down but i kinda like the lift if i can match the front with cranking the torsion and running bj spacers as my last resort. im pretty sure i lost my rear braking since it has one of those Load Sensing Rear Brake deals. i need to figure out how to turn up the rear to 100% for better braking since i read a few guys doing that. another thing, since im sure i dont have much rear brakes is when i come to a complete stop, it feels like the drive line is a little twisted cuz when i take off. i can feel something unloading. i did drive around with the door open and my head looking down at the rear suspension and didnt real see anything that would cause this so im thinking driveline
another way would just remove the shocks and maybe one shackle and drop the rear end enough to just slide the coil springs in
yep those are 32x11.50 BFG All Terrains and i love them so far in the snow
they dont make any noise at all even at low speeds going over monster bumps
i was thinking of cutting these down but i kinda like the lift if i can match the front with cranking the torsion and running bj spacers as my last resort. im pretty sure i lost my rear braking since it has one of those Load Sensing Rear Brake deals. i need to figure out how to turn up the rear to 100% for better braking since i read a few guys doing that. another thing, since im sure i dont have much rear brakes is when i come to a complete stop, it feels like the drive line is a little twisted cuz when i take off. i can feel something unloading. i did drive around with the door open and my head looking down at the rear suspension and didnt real see anything that would cause this so im thinking driveline
#16
Registered User
If you feel your rear brakes are "fading" then I 1000% suggest you at the very least flush your brake fluid on your 4 wheels AND the LSPV. Is your fluid dark in the reservoir under the hood? Then do the flush and see what a difference it makes.
#17
its not because the brake fluid is dirty. its cuz the LPSV thinks that i have no load in the rear so it takes away if not all the rear braking. i did a simple test by stopping a certain way that i know will cause the sudden jump but i pulled on the ebrake so i know the rear brakes are on. release ebrake and took off. no sudden jump felt.
im thinking of disconnecting the rear LPSV that is bolted to the rear axle housing. take the rod and move it all the way up to the body and zip tie it. this will allow the LPSV to think i have the rear loaded and give me my rear brakes back.
im thinking of disconnecting the rear LPSV that is bolted to the rear axle housing. take the rod and move it all the way up to the body and zip tie it. this will allow the LPSV to think i have the rear loaded and give me my rear brakes back.
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: weiser idaho
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you can go to the scrap yard and find some used ones to, i got coils out of a 98 jeep and did the same thing. that with 5.5 inch shackles gives u 4 inches of lift or atleast it did me. it was only 2 inches over stock
#20