BK2TFUTURE

I just got back from a 800+ mile trip (SF>LA>SF) and i'm getting idle issues again. It kinda goes away and then comes back because i'm driving the truck less and less. I'll be heading back down for some BTTF stuff in the next 2 weeks and I really want to get this figured out.

My guess is HOT weather and long drives seems to upset my idle. Temp/Oil were normal through out the trip but what else can I do.

- When I let off the gas at times I get feed back: jerking, clunking noise. TB? TPS?
- I feel like every time I have to adjust my idle screw. Different story every time. ???
- Timing is at 5 degrees and idle is at 1k. If it gets to 900 truck starts to shake. Again, different story every day/stop light/stop sign/traffic.

It's pissing me off. IACV? Throttle body? TPS? AFM? Dashpot? These have been cleaned, calibrated and tested many times and it's throwing me off. Recently my buddy did a smoke test, checked/cleaned the connectors on the AFM and 'cleaned' the sensor as well and it appeared the cold start injector was stuck.

I'm seeing so many threads that are not solved OR people given up OR does not solve my issue. I'm going back to LA in 2 weeks and then 2 weeks after that. I need to make sure my truck is in shape to make all these trips.

-Jack

P.S. 2nd Place for Best Truck/SUV at JCCS this year (1st time)

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

These can be frustrating. Have you burped the system? Raising the front end up high and letting the thermostat cycle with the radiator cap off to get the air out?

I would run resistance checks on all of my sensors and double check all vac lines are connected correctly.

BK2TFUTURE

I did this a while ago. I put the truck on ramps and done it.

Are there any good aftermarket IACVs out there? I was thinking of starting with that first.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if there is a good aftermarket source. I always get one out of the bone yard and then do a resistance check at room temperature and then put it in the freezer for about 15 minutes and see if the valve opens and closes.

Here is a good check>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52045185

AKHeathen

You may want to get some sewing pins and back probe the ground and output pins of the tps with the ignition on. sometimes ot can ohm out okay with no dips on an ohm check but show fault while checking voltage on a slow sweep. I bet just off idle might show a hick up in voltage.

coryc85

Yeah I would check the IACV, because in my experience, if that is not operating properly then I think you will have a hard time setting your idle, like it won't always be right. My IACV broke that little tab in there so it was always closed.

On top of that, I had my AFM flapper stick open on me a few times and cause me all kinds of headaches, I never knew it until I looked in there and saw it was stuck open. It wasn't always stuck, just sometimes, I think dirt/grit gets in there and prevents the flapper from closing. Cleaned out the throat of it really well and have not had an issue since. If I remember right, it was giving me a really high idle, which was bucking and carrying on at low speeds.

Both easy things to check and relatively cheap. There is an adjustment for the IACV but I have never done it.

BK2TFUTURE

Thank you everyone. I'm almost at a point where I'm gonna start buying and replacing things. If it is the IACV, I'd hate to buy a used one. 25 + years old?

Does anyone know the years of compatibility for an 87 efi 22re?

Is there any significance with HOT weather and long driving?

BK2TFUTURE

I'll like to add that I drove the truck to work this morning. 60 degrees with slight traffic.

Everything was fine and the truck would idle at 1k until I ended up in stop and go traffic.

Idle was sticking aND on the brakes would make it jump up and down and other stops it wouldnt.

To make the jumping idle go away I would hold the brake and ease off on the clutch forcing the Idel down to 5-600rpm.

Other times it would hold at 1200.

Hmmm

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have seen the dash pot keep the idle up. It could be the TPS. These EFI models can be pain chasing out the gremlins in them.

BK2TFUTURE

It's a tuffy. Parked I can make the throttle stick with a couple jabs on the cable.

Once it's 'stuck' I push down on the throttle hammer to bring it back down. What's interesting is why does the truck shake if the idle is below 900rpm?

Today's drive home was the same. I was seeing 1600k rpm + in stop n go in traffic.

The thing is I do not always have time on the weekends to work on the truck. I have limited space, knowledge and tools.

Again, I'm driving back down to LA soon and this is bothering me.

Fundy Rider

Had a similar issue after a whole wack of new parts after a Head gasket job.


Replaced rad cap and now have a proper running cooling system. Can see the expansion and the level return to cold level now. It would stay at one level prior.


Coolant issues greatly affect these trucks. It may not be your issue but for a few dollars why not try it.


I was getting the inconsistent idle as well with new dashpot and such. Thought it may be the issue but in the end it simply was not enough slack in the throttle cable. Purrs like a kitten now and with a consistent idle.

BK2TFUTURE

Did some work today:

AFM - Cleaned again and tested. Only this time I cleaned all the caked dust inside, so I used some brake cleaner and cleaned inside and around the door. Tested were all in spec. (crazy how sensitive the resistance jumps as soon as you lightly tap the door)

TPS - I checked and all is in spec.

IACV - I was having trouble getting resistance at first, I think the 2 prongs were dirty. I scrubbed them a bit and I get resistance but at the tips, not so much at the sides of the prongs. Issue?

IACV is in the freezer right now so i'll check it in the next few hours.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if the spring that makes pulls the throttle to the closed position is strong enough. I feel your frustrations, I gathering the parts to convert mine to 22r. The fuel injected motor sometimes just keeps having issues. I can usually figure them out but it is a lot of trial and error.

HiDesertLux

I apologize BK2TFUTURE if you've already tried these things, but just thinking:

I assume you checked the coolant nipples running to the IACV for blockage?

Cleaned and checked the electrical ground points (bad grounds can play havoc with temp sensor)

Air intake plumbing free of leaks?

My gut reaction is that it is coolant sensor related.
The symptoms are very close to what my 22RE experiences when I am bleeding the coolant system (when sensors are confused with alternating air/coolant exposure).

BK2TFUTURE

Here are some pics


Air Filter




I was expecting more coolant to come out.







Here is the IACV as is.




As is



From the freezer after an hour or so





back at room temp





I've gone head and replaced the old O-Ring in the idle screw. I ended up just eyeing it from this parts repair kit from Lowes.


In the end I cleaned the AFM chamber, connectors and IACV.
All sensors are in spec.
Replaced the O-Ring in the throttle body scew


Results:

After burping the system (truck was on ramps) the coolant hose on top was completely compressed, so I used my hands and squeezed it back into shape. Interesting.

Drove it around the block and everything seems fine. I noticed when I was coming to a stop the needle dropped to about 700ish RPMs and it slowly climbed to about 9.

After taking it around the block i just let it sit there and idle while i cleaned up the garage. Magically the idle creeped up some to about 1k RPM. I tried adjusting using the screw but now I can completely tighten the idle screw and the truck will not die. Hmm..

For safe measures I am gonna buy the idle screw from LC Engineering.


Thats where I am at right now. Its Sunday I want to relax

-jack

AKHeathen

i hate to think this is all from a sticky throttle cable....... when it happens, can you pop the hood and put it back into an 800rmp idle by shoving the throttle some?

BK2TFUTURE

Thank you everyone for chiming in.

I drove in today to monitor my work yesterday. Here is my log:

Going to work (50/60ish degrees)
-Started it up idle was about 800-1k (slightly shaking)
-Drove down the street, at the stop idle drops to 600ish (shaking)
-pulled into gas station and adjusted the screw to 900-1k. (still shaking)
-in traffic, hitting the brakes needle will drop to 700 and bounce to 1k
-other parts in traffic i was getting 1k-1100. mostly 1k.

On the way home (traffic, 80+ degrees)
-mostly 1k-1100 RPMs
-feed back from letting off the gas trying to work that clutch/gas (jerking/noise)
-i tried adjusting my mechanics of shifting (slowly pushing the clutch and then letting off the gas so I don't get that jerking. seemed to work but still bothering me that I have to switch my mechanics.
-stop and go, stop and go. took over an hour to get home.

Home
-left the truck idling in the drive way.
-needle went from 950ish to almost 1100 magically in 5 minutes sitting there. -readjusted the screw.
-I screwed the hole thing in and idle was at 900 but shaking
-shut it off and started back up and its back to 1k


UGH
I'm constantly adjusting the screw. Truck cannot make its mind.

Why does it shake in the 800/900 rage? Why why why Never done this before. All after the rebuild. I remember the truck idling at 750/800. Now it shakes if it gets to that.


I've installed a new spring some time ago and a new throttle cable.

BK2TFUTURE

grounds





grounds





grounds





grounds





here's the water temp sensor





ummmm, thoughts?





it's like caked on there

HiDesertLux

Yes the grounds look clean Deposits on the temp sensor, but you said it tested OK?

Having been through other issues like this, maybe it's time to take the patient to a trusted mechanic. You've done a lot, but I think you need another pair of eyes looking at this issue. Have you tried Yodaman in Santa Rosa? I've not used him, but reports seem good. I would think he has intimate knowledge of the 22RE

The alternative is to start replacing old parts, which is OK too. So the (Auxiliary Air Valve is part # 22230-35010 for your 87. My OEM Toyota source says its discontinued. Aftermarkets are around I guess. My '92 22RE takes part 22230-35030 which is still around for a whopping $215 - which is discounted from list price. I wonder why they are different parts - Did they make an engineering change in the 89-95s? The engines seem so similar.

One thing I've noticed is that 22RE Performance has a list of all the Fuel Injection sensors to replace as part of the new engine install. Not a bad idea to buy new temp sensors if you can swing it. http://22reperformance.com/22RE_Perf...ion_Parts.html

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You saying that it is shaking makes me think there is a vacuum line off or misrouted somewhere.