write up: 1995 4Runner 3.0 V6 Clutch Replacement
04-12-2010, 02:43 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
write up: 1995 4Runner 3.0 V6 Clutch Replacement
Hey guys,
I'm pretty new here. I went and searched for a few docs on how to do the swap on this. I noticed that there are not too many write ups on this. So I pretty much had to jump into all of this solo. I'm pretty much going to step by step this to make it easier for you guys to swap your clutches. Lets jump in!
Step 1: If your not lifted, You may want to get some ramps and drive up on them. I personally started unattaching stuff, then realized that I needed a little more room. (This wasn't the best idea). Remove the shifter assemblies. The 4wd shifter can be removed by a c-clip, but the 5 speed shifter has 4 bolts holding it on. (I found its best to drop the transmission brace to allow for more clearance to work on the bolts)
Step 2: I then started removing drive shafts. This is one of the easier steps. (note: if you cannot do this... turn back....)
Step 3: Remove Exhaust support brace.
Step 4: Remove slave cylinder from bell housing.
Step 5: Remove the transmission cross member.
Step 6: Alright, This is were it gets tricky. There are a few 3 sensors on the 3 Liter transmission. 2 are electrical. 1 mechanical. Mechanical is in the rear of the motor. 2 Digital (one behind the 4wd leaver, and one on the right hand side of the motor seeable from below. There is also several mounts for the harness. Make sure you disconnect those.
Step 7: This is were it gets VERY tricky. There is 12 bolts that hold the transmission to the motor. This part was by far the hardest part of them all. You can do this one or two ways. 1) remove the engine. 2) remove the front diff. or 3) don't remove anything and just remove the bolts.
I went with option 3. Knowing what I know now. I would probably still do it the say way.. But just differently.
There are 6 17mm bolts, and 6 14mm bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Bottom most 14/17 mm bolts are the easiest. However there are two bolts that sit RIGHT above everything that are not really reachable from the bottom of the car. It took me awhile to figure this out. If you use the shifter hole that above you made by removing shifter assemblies and just attach about 2-2.5 ft of extensions, and swivels. You can hit those bolts pretty easily, However you need a friend to help you out. Best way to place the socket on the (passenger side)right hand side of the transmission is through the bottom. On the (drivers side)left hand side. Its through the wheel well.
Depending on how your going to remove the transmission Make sure you have some support under there. a hydralic jack helps out. or In my case I used a transmission jack.
There is one bolt that goes from the front of the truck to the rear. Removing the skid plate gives you a clear shot to the bolt.
Step 8: Transmission is out. I took the time to do a little bit of cleaning. I used some brake cleaner to get most of the black dust out.it evaporates quickly, and leaves a nice black mark on the garage floor.
Step 9: Replace throw out bearing. This is a simple snap in place once you remove the leaver. I also line the inside of the bearing with some high temp grease.
Step 10: Inspect the flywheel. I got very lucky on this flywheel. It actually had the factory grooves still on the flywheel so i decided to not get it resurfaced. It practically looked brand new. I also cleaned this up.
Step 11: Remove old pilot bearing. A lot of people don't replace this thing too often. However. This was a pain to take out in the first place. you should just do it. I rented a pilot bearing remover, and slide hammer from autozone to remove this. Trick with this is just use one of the hooks instead of both of them. Both will be too big. Two wacks with just one side took the bearing out quickly.
Step 12: Insert new bearing. I had to kind of do this on my own. However. a 22mm socket wrench mades a perfect fit for rubber malleting in the new bushing.
Step 13: Insert new disk with Alignment tool.
Step 14: Install pressure plate with alignment tool still on to insure good alignment. Alignment tool is a MUST for easy installation. Torque specs on the pressure plate to flywheel should be 14 PSI. DONT OVER TIGTHEN THESE!!!! (I've broken off bolts on other cars...)
Step 15: Re-install transmission. If your man handling it. I feel sorry for you. Transmission jacks are the way to go when reinstalling tranmissions. You can rent them from places from 5-25 bucks a day. It allows for you to easily adjust the tilt of the transmission which will help with the install. Once you get that done I always thread a few bolts in partially so things cannot slide out on you. It also gives you a little play to twist the transmission so all bolt hols line up.
Step 16: install transmission cross member.
Step 17: Front and rear diffrentials.
Step 18: Clutch slave cylinders, and all electrical work.
Conclusion: This is my first 4Runner. I more or less looked for information on this and found a few threads with 22RE's The main part that really made this simple fix just a little worse than it should have been was the exhaust manafold going across the top of the transmission. It isn't like this on the 22RE (at lease shouldn't be). Total time spent on this was about 16 hours. I hope with this information it will take you just a little less time. 5 hours opposed to 16.
Good Luck!
~Michael
I'm pretty new here. I went and searched for a few docs on how to do the swap on this. I noticed that there are not too many write ups on this. So I pretty much had to jump into all of this solo. I'm pretty much going to step by step this to make it easier for you guys to swap your clutches. Lets jump in!
Step 1: If your not lifted, You may want to get some ramps and drive up on them. I personally started unattaching stuff, then realized that I needed a little more room. (This wasn't the best idea). Remove the shifter assemblies. The 4wd shifter can be removed by a c-clip, but the 5 speed shifter has 4 bolts holding it on. (I found its best to drop the transmission brace to allow for more clearance to work on the bolts)
Step 2: I then started removing drive shafts. This is one of the easier steps. (note: if you cannot do this... turn back....)
Step 3: Remove Exhaust support brace.
Step 4: Remove slave cylinder from bell housing.
Step 5: Remove the transmission cross member.
Step 6: Alright, This is were it gets tricky. There are a few 3 sensors on the 3 Liter transmission. 2 are electrical. 1 mechanical. Mechanical is in the rear of the motor. 2 Digital (one behind the 4wd leaver, and one on the right hand side of the motor seeable from below. There is also several mounts for the harness. Make sure you disconnect those.
Step 7: This is were it gets VERY tricky. There is 12 bolts that hold the transmission to the motor. This part was by far the hardest part of them all. You can do this one or two ways. 1) remove the engine. 2) remove the front diff. or 3) don't remove anything and just remove the bolts.
I went with option 3. Knowing what I know now. I would probably still do it the say way.. But just differently.
There are 6 17mm bolts, and 6 14mm bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Bottom most 14/17 mm bolts are the easiest. However there are two bolts that sit RIGHT above everything that are not really reachable from the bottom of the car. It took me awhile to figure this out. If you use the shifter hole that above you made by removing shifter assemblies and just attach about 2-2.5 ft of extensions, and swivels. You can hit those bolts pretty easily, However you need a friend to help you out. Best way to place the socket on the (passenger side)right hand side of the transmission is through the bottom. On the (drivers side)left hand side. Its through the wheel well.
Depending on how your going to remove the transmission Make sure you have some support under there. a hydralic jack helps out. or In my case I used a transmission jack.
There is one bolt that goes from the front of the truck to the rear. Removing the skid plate gives you a clear shot to the bolt.
Step 8: Transmission is out. I took the time to do a little bit of cleaning. I used some brake cleaner to get most of the black dust out.it evaporates quickly, and leaves a nice black mark on the garage floor.
Step 9: Replace throw out bearing. This is a simple snap in place once you remove the leaver. I also line the inside of the bearing with some high temp grease.
Step 10: Inspect the flywheel. I got very lucky on this flywheel. It actually had the factory grooves still on the flywheel so i decided to not get it resurfaced. It practically looked brand new. I also cleaned this up.
Step 11: Remove old pilot bearing. A lot of people don't replace this thing too often. However. This was a pain to take out in the first place. you should just do it. I rented a pilot bearing remover, and slide hammer from autozone to remove this. Trick with this is just use one of the hooks instead of both of them. Both will be too big. Two wacks with just one side took the bearing out quickly.
Step 12: Insert new bearing. I had to kind of do this on my own. However. a 22mm socket wrench mades a perfect fit for rubber malleting in the new bushing.
Step 13: Insert new disk with Alignment tool.
Step 14: Install pressure plate with alignment tool still on to insure good alignment. Alignment tool is a MUST for easy installation. Torque specs on the pressure plate to flywheel should be 14 PSI. DONT OVER TIGTHEN THESE!!!! (I've broken off bolts on other cars...)
Step 15: Re-install transmission. If your man handling it. I feel sorry for you. Transmission jacks are the way to go when reinstalling tranmissions. You can rent them from places from 5-25 bucks a day. It allows for you to easily adjust the tilt of the transmission which will help with the install. Once you get that done I always thread a few bolts in partially so things cannot slide out on you. It also gives you a little play to twist the transmission so all bolt hols line up.
Step 16: install transmission cross member.
Step 17: Front and rear diffrentials.
Step 18: Clutch slave cylinders, and all electrical work.
Conclusion: This is my first 4Runner. I more or less looked for information on this and found a few threads with 22RE's The main part that really made this simple fix just a little worse than it should have been was the exhaust manafold going across the top of the transmission. It isn't like this on the 22RE (at lease shouldn't be). Total time spent on this was about 16 hours. I hope with this information it will take you just a little less time. 5 hours opposed to 16.
Good Luck!
~Michael
Last edited by arisythila; 03-17-2016 at 08:10 AM.
04-12-2010, 02:52 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Your telling me. PITA. I was hoping this could make it at lease 10% easier for someone who wants to do their own work.
Hope it helps someone.
Hope it helps someone.
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04-23-2010, 12:04 AM
#9
2 things to add..
1.) make marks to identify where the driveshafts were exactly on the flanges. Sometimes they vibrate if they are not put back exactly right.
2.) This may be more of just my opinion.. but anytime i see hot spots on the flywheel i resurface them. Also if you're there... why not just do it. It's gonna be that much nicer and you wont have to worry about the surface "glazzing".
otherwise good job. Now when was the last time you greased the zerk fittings on the driveshaft?
1.) make marks to identify where the driveshafts were exactly on the flanges. Sometimes they vibrate if they are not put back exactly right.
2.) This may be more of just my opinion.. but anytime i see hot spots on the flywheel i resurface them. Also if you're there... why not just do it. It's gonna be that much nicer and you wont have to worry about the surface "glazzing".
otherwise good job. Now when was the last time you greased the zerk fittings on the driveshaft?
04-23-2010, 07:13 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, I marked mine. Forgot to add that. I just used a black sharpy.
I was going to resurface the flywheel, However. Even tho it looked like that. All of the factory grooves were still there. I think i mentioned that in the writeup. There was a little discoloration. But when I removed the flywheel, to measure it, IT was DEAD on.
I was going to resurface the flywheel, However. Even tho it looked like that. All of the factory grooves were still there. I think i mentioned that in the writeup. There was a little discoloration. But when I removed the flywheel, to measure it, IT was DEAD on.
04-23-2010, 07:22 AM
#11
Registered User
Nice writeup...I did mine a little while back 92 22re though not the v6. Not too much different.
This has a bunch of random banter in it so it's not so much a writeup but there may be some good info so others as well...
Here's mine...
.
This has a bunch of random banter in it so it's not so much a writeup but there may be some good info so others as well...
Here's mine...
.
04-23-2010, 11:08 AM
#12
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
yeah, except I was on 35's and 4" bracket lift and that DIDN'T make it easier...I wish I had a tranny jack but I had my floor jack and a 225/75R15 strapped to it to make a tranny jack! LOL!
04-23-2010, 01:46 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Now there's a mans tranny jack. If it makes you feel better the tranny jack I had was broken beyond repair. So it was not functional at all. Was okay getting it down, but yeah didn't work putting it back on.
Yeah, Im on stock lift and 33's and it was pretty rough. Well atlease when your laying on the ground and trying to reach bolts.
All in fun and games tho right?
~Michael
Yeah, Im on stock lift and 33's and it was pretty rough. Well atlease when your laying on the ground and trying to reach bolts.
All in fun and games tho right?
~Michael
06-02-2010, 10:01 AM
#14
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great write up ive been searching for prices to have mine done and also looking for feed back from ppl who have done their own. i used to work at a toyota dealership so i could of done mine no problem but now i dont and no more lift and special tools and jacks and all so i was kinda afraid to start it in my garage but your write up is making me think more about installin it myself. thanks alot about how long did it take you to do this on the ground?
06-16-2010, 10:19 PM
#15
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awesome write up helps a lot!! as im only 19 and have never done this before. also the truck on ramps part is smart BEFORE you start tearing into it as im finding out now.
06-17-2010, 01:27 AM
#16
sorry but you don't have the Power
fixed to this: 'write up: 1995 4Runner 3.0 V6 Clutch Replacement' so it will be easier when someone searches, you were only able to edit the title of the 1st post.
great write up
Last edited by dropzone; 06-17-2010 at 01:29 AM.
07-26-2010, 10:33 AM
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This thread needs to be a sticky, saved me alot of time! im just finishing my clutch up but were using an ATV jack as a trans jack and diddnt remove the crossmember from the transmission or the front driveshaft. something to add is that it makes it easier to get to the drivers side top trans bolt of you unbolt the brake lines in the drivers wheelwell.
07-28-2010, 07:02 AM
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I just replaced the clutch on my 93 and now the clutch doesnt release and I cant put the damn thing into gear! The slave cylinder appears to be working fine. We bled the system. What´s the problem?
