Won't start/ no power
#1
Won't start/ no power
My 88 Toyota pickup with a 22R won't start. My friend needed a jump and I made the mistake of letting him put the jumper cables on and and he arced my battery really bad. Something got fried.
I can push start the truck and it will run. At first I would get power once I got the RPM's up at the alternator kicked in but now I'm getting none at all. Only power I have is headlights and flashers, the fuses that are in the engine bay. Nothing that has fuses on the kick panel fuse box has power.
I replaced the wire going from the battery to the starter cause it was pretty bad anyway, jumped the starter from where the small wire going to the starter plugs into the harness and it turned over. Where should I start looking? All the fuses are good, I'm guessing it's a fuseable link. The electrical diagram in my Hayne's manual sucks.
I can push start the truck and it will run. At first I would get power once I got the RPM's up at the alternator kicked in but now I'm getting none at all. Only power I have is headlights and flashers, the fuses that are in the engine bay. Nothing that has fuses on the kick panel fuse box has power.
I replaced the wire going from the battery to the starter cause it was pretty bad anyway, jumped the starter from where the small wire going to the starter plugs into the harness and it turned over. Where should I start looking? All the fuses are good, I'm guessing it's a fuseable link. The electrical diagram in my Hayne's manual sucks.
#3
Registered User
Download the FSM (google toyota FSM it will be the first link given) it has a much better wiring diagram.
I believe if the fusible link fuse and/or wire goes bad you wouldn't have headlights either, but I could be wrong.
I believe if the fusible link fuse and/or wire goes bad you wouldn't have headlights either, but I could be wrong.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
In the wire to the fusible link box from the battery.... there is, internally, a fusible link(unless you've changed that 10G wire?) You STILL might have blown a fuse/fusible link in the box... The one that reads 80A is the breaker from battery/charge to alternator. However, like XXX above said, that area can shut down MOST stuff that it's trying to protect like your friend caused.
I would first check the 80A, then, if it's good, strip down the smaller wire that runs from positive/battery to fusible link box and see if the link snapped/and/or bypass that wire from the battery right to the nearest point of the wire/fusible link box with a spare 10G or so wire and see if you complete the circuit and have full power. If so, voila, you know your main power wire to the system is a source of issues. IF NOT, start fishing to see if any of your 'MAIN' fuses went bad.
XXX is 100% right.... YOU NEED THE FSM, now, if you don't have it. The troubleshooting in that guide is second to none on these, as it should be, lol. XXX is also right that without power to the majority of the fusible link box you SHOULD have NO headlights/majority of dashlights/signals, etc.
Best wishes, hurry back and update.
I would first check the 80A, then, if it's good, strip down the smaller wire that runs from positive/battery to fusible link box and see if the link snapped/and/or bypass that wire from the battery right to the nearest point of the wire/fusible link box with a spare 10G or so wire and see if you complete the circuit and have full power. If so, voila, you know your main power wire to the system is a source of issues. IF NOT, start fishing to see if any of your 'MAIN' fuses went bad.
XXX is 100% right.... YOU NEED THE FSM, now, if you don't have it. The troubleshooting in that guide is second to none on these, as it should be, lol. XXX is also right that without power to the majority of the fusible link box you SHOULD have NO headlights/majority of dashlights/signals, etc.
Best wishes, hurry back and update.
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