BajaRunner

OK... Can someone please tell me why I am unable to burp the cooling system? (1994 22re)

What I do:

1) Jack up front of vehicle
2) Turn on heater full blast
3) Take off radiator cap
4) Turn on car
5) Wait till operating temperature...

And rather than bubbles, the thing just overflows from the radiator and I have no heat coming through the heater!?

The heater hose going into the heater core is hot but not all the way up. Assuming there is bubbles in there. The return line is cold.

My water pump is brand new and is making some gurgling noises assuming its trying to push some air I guess?

I keep finding little strands of RTV from the new water pump inside the radiator. You think that they could have plugged up a port?

The top radiator hose is hot, I just replaced the thermostat. My overflow tank keeps getting full as well.

Whats going on?!!?!

blake.nemitz

park it on a steep hill or pull up on a huge rock so your at least 45 degrees, i had to do this to burp my 3.slow after i swapped the radiator, after pulling my hair out for a couple days i picked up the front with the tractor to about 45 degrees and it burped as soon as it was started.

BajaRunner

HAHA! Thats funny. Ok so its not just me.

Anyone think a a few chunks of RTV could really plug up a cooling system? I gotta look for an engine block plug and maybe I'll redo the system

The guy before me put new hoses, radiator, water pump and thermostat before I bought it. Its not overheating but I think there are some bubbles in the system!!

snobdds

I like to squeeze the top radiator hose to help work out the air. Just keep working it untill when you squeeze no more bubbles come out.

And make sure your heater is on full blast...

BajaRunner

Well I actually just dropped the truck down to flat ground and the heater came on, so thats good.

I think its just a PIA system. Do your guy's radiators overflow? It almost seems as if there is too much backpressure going into the system...(Going down through the radiator to the bottom of the block).

OutlawMike

What I did to make it easier is cut the top heater hose that runs along the fire wall, install a T-fitting there, and then attach a short section of heater hose to the T and put a plug in the end of it. When you burp the system, you loosen the T-fitting and rotate the hose upward, take out the plug. That is now the high point on the system and it burps out there all by itself.

Mike

pruney81

I just turn the heater on full blast and squeeze the top hose and never had an issue

iamsuperbleeder

yeah it's going to overflow from the radiator if the cap is off

once you start the truck, that coolant starts heating up immediately, and we all know what happens when water heats up; it expands

BUT, once the engine gets to operating temp, that hot, expanded coolant will rush into the radiator and cool, and you'll see the level suddenly drop in the radiator

when that happens, squeeze and left off that upper radiator hose several times to work out any more air, top off the radiator, pump the upper hose a couple more times, top off as needed, then put the cap back on, and you should be good to go

Kiroshu

The 22re you don't need to jack up or put in on a hill. The ways its desgined this is not needed. Just fill it up as much as you can while its cold to the top then turn it on and keep adding it as it "bubbles"/"burps"

^While the heater is on max high.

Let it run a bit while doing this when you get it close to the top and quits bubbliing then its worked most of the air out. When it starts just pouring out of the radiator its gotten too hot and is more than likely air out as well.

Squeezing the lower rad hose while off can get alot of air out as well but not all.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I just did my T-chain a couple weeks ago.
I couldn't get all the coolant required into the system on first try.
I squeezed the upper rad hose, jacked up the front, jumped on the back, heater on full blast, no dice.
Just fill the overflow reservoir with whatever it needs.
It will draw fluid as required. Do a couple hot laps and some quick stops and starts. It'll burp itself.

stackedyoda

did you pat it on the back and bounce it on your knee?

Magnusian

Hahahahahaha, this is -exactly- how I was planning on doing that when I drain my coolant and flush things so I can go back to 'yota approved coolant. "Hmmmm, front of the truck looks like it'll fit the loader bucket..."

peow130

When i did it, i put the engine at operating temp and it didnt bubble over.
then again, my t stat is stuck open lol.
i just kept running it with the cap off and the heater on, but not blowing.
it would lower and id pour in distilled water.. repeat until it didnt lower.

Ron Helmuth

a couple of panic stops always seemed to help my old 22Re.

But the fact that you are getting heat now is a good sign.

Brendan

Old thread but similar issue. I just replaced my heater core and did a coolant change. When I am at idle (and possibly while driving - can't tell) and rev up the motor, as soon as the engine RPMs decelerate, I get a gurgling sound coming from my coolant overflow reservoir. I had the truck parked on a significant uphill slope and let it run with the rad cap off for 15 mins, but nothing seemed to happen. Coolant temp gauge was at normal operating temperature. Heat in the cab, but radiator still cold and coolant inside sitting stagnant. The gurgling would indicate air in the cooling system wouldn't it? Anything else I can do?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like your thermostat is not opening or you did not let it run long enough to get the thermostat open.