stormin94

It's going to be spring time again soon, so that means I'll be working on my 4Runner soon also. I'm needing to regear after my 33" tires, and I'm also looking to add a locker to the rear, and get some protection for the components. I'll try to keep this detailed, but brief. Also feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken.

First issue I have is gearing. I know I should have 4.88 gears with 33's and 5speed V6. I just want to know what's the best way to go about this. Where can I get the best price/quality? What kind of a shop should I have this installed in? Approx. how much is 4.88 gearing going to cost me? Also, any experiences you've had with regearing good or bad would be helpful.

Second: Locking the rear. I know there are many different ways to acheive this. My primary use for my 4Runner is a daily driver, but I do need it to perform offroad as well. I live where there is snow, but rarely any accumulations over 1 inch, unless I travel to the mtns. I like the affordability of the "Aussie" locker, and I've read some good reviews. However, I don't want/need the rear to be locked full time, esp. not in snowy condidtions, or for highway travel for tire wear reasons, and handling compromises. This leaves me with one of three options that I'm currently aware of. #1)The cable locker, which I'm not sure is available for my rear axle, but I do like the concept and simplicity of actuation. #2) the E-Locker, which I've read can be somewhat vulnerable to corrosion if submerged in water, which I do every so often, esp. in summertime. #3) the Air Locker, which I like because of the push button, and the on board air that you get as an added bonus with the pump. But I've also read the air lines can leak, and the cost of the unit is VERY expensive. This being said, I like the concept of the e-locker, but I need to know how to install it on my rear axle, how it will affect the installation of gears, and if I need to do both at the same time. Where do I get the best prices on these? Also, any thoughts on this?

And finally, Armor. I'm looking to add some kind of protection to the underbelly of my 4Runner. I don't rock crawl, and I don't jump sand dunes. Where's a good place to start? What's the most important thing to armor? I also need to know where to get the best quality/price?

Any advice helps me out a ton, since I'm either split on the decision, or I just don't quite know where to begin.


Thanks.

nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a used 3rd member with factory 4.88 gears and a lockrite in it for $250. Great deal. I've heard really good reviews about the aussie and the lockrite, even in snow. It just take a little bit getting used to; so I'd look at buying a used 3rd and don't completely rule out those lockers. And armor, I'm not sure about the order of importance but I know Budbuilt has some armor you might look at

scuba

Just so you know aussie doesnt make a locker for the v6 application...

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

aussie doesnt make a locker for the V6... so unless you want to swap out to a 4Cyl housing you cant use it...

ever thought about a LSD?? the toyota e-locker is jsut as expensive as the air lockers...
if you do go the e-locker route, get the third member and ship it to ZUK for regearing (www.gearinstalls.com) but remember that you have to notch your stock axle in order to install it...

as for the armor, go for the budbuilt skids, sonoran steel crossmember, and maybe an aftermarket front skid plate... and, if you want some looks, even tho you dont need them, maybe some sliders...

haha... the funny thing is that i havent done any of these things... this is just MY wishlist for my truck... lol... good luck, and if you need any help, let me know, i may be able to offer a hand...

Matt16

I've not found my Aussie locker to be a compromise on the road. This is from a guy who used to drive a Corolla and various minivan. I haven't owned a V6 locker (Lock Right) beyond going around a parking lot, but it wasn't much different.

My Aussie locker writeup in my sig. discusses you concerns pretty thoroughly.

stormin94

I have thought about an LSD, but from prior experience with those, they just don't give the other wheel enough traction. And they don't engage every single time. I do like the concept of the LSD, but I still think I'd much rather have a locker that puts me in control. And thanks for the link....although I'm not sure what you mean "notch your stock axle"?

So looks like the skid plates are the most important then. I'd like to use a YT vendor if at all possible. I'm not sure I want to replace my front skid plate, since it still does the job.....but it does seem a little weaker than I'd like it to be.

I also appreciate your offer to lend a hand.

Excellent write up. Even though apparently they don't currently offer an Aussie locker for the V6 axle, I did find your write up very helpful in explaining what to expect for the behavior of the vehicle with the locker. I'm concerned about tire wear with an auto locker, since I do most of my driving on the highway.


Thank all for your info, and keep the info comming.


To the top.

Junkers88

I drive 90% in town and after almost 8000 miles I've seen no "extra" wear on the rear tires with the auto locker. You learn really quick how to drive with it on a high traction surface like concrete or pavement.

If you do decide to go with an Aussie you can get a 4cylinder third member and install it in there. When I did my regear for my tires I bought a set of used thirds out of a 94 4runner with a 4cylinder in it. All I did was install the Aussie and then install both thirds. In the span of a few hours on a Saturday I had 4.56's and a locker in the rear.

With regards to armor you might be better off wheeling it and finding out where your weak points are. I went out and bought the Marlin Crawler front and rear bumpers only to slam the crap out of my stock t-case cross member on the very first wheeling trip. I have since bought a Budbuilt single case plate and installed it, of course now I'm finding that I need some sliders to keep the rocks out of the sheet metal....... it never really ends.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

well, here are two links explaining the e-locker retrofit... they have pics so you can see what needs to be done to your axle housing...

http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
http://www.4runners.org/writeups/elocker/

as for the LSD, have you thought about asking another member on the forums about their experiences? and i know that you can get an LSD out of a Supra for cheaper than a new unit... thats what CORAX has on his rig... maybe send him a PM and pick his brains on the subject...

intelplatoon

sorry to sort of hi-jack the thread, but its been 2 weeks since the last post, so i thought it was ok..........

i want to lock and regear my truck. im currently driving on 31" tires and didnt know if i should get 4.56 or 4.88. i figured id go with 4.88's in case i ever wanted to get 33's.......will 4.88's drive ok on 31"s or should i not......sorry, I dont really know a whole lot about the gear ratio's on these trucks yet. (still a newwwwwwbie)

Thanks in advance all

intelplatoon

sorry guys most of its in my sig, but its a 22re 5spd stock everything except the tires

stormin94

I'll let you hi-jack, but only if you can give me some info about my topic as well...

Even if you've got 22RE, you should be fine with 4.56's for the time being, but if you've got the 3VZE, stick with the 4.56's. I've got 4.10's(although I think they might be 4.30's) and I'm running 33's. It's a bit of a turd, but it still moves around alright. Although I might need 4.88's in the future to reclaim some power/MPG. But it will still function with stock gearing.

vermontoyota

I think gears take precedence over a locker and a locked takes precedence over armor. It sounds like your driving habits are a lot like mine and I know that, even in deep snow and mud, the fact that I need to be in 4-lo to do almost anything off road erks me more than the fact that my diffs are open. It really gets annyoing to have to ride the clutch to get those bid tires spinning.

904_runner

Check your door code if your not positive. I bet you have 4.56's.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I disagree with the first half of your opening statement and sort of agree with the second half. There is no better mod for off road performance than a locker. Period. I think you can make a convincing arguement either way for drivetrain/lock before armor or vice versa so I "sort of" agree with the second part of your statement. My feeling is it is a bit of a "the chicken or the egg" situation. I'm not even sure how I feel about the subject. My only arguement for armor first is if you can't afford to lock now and you care about your sheetmetal, you might want to armor up first. This is due to the fact that the lack of a locker will probably result in an unexpected slip or slide at some point, causing you to hit that tree or rock that seemed like a non issue when you started into your chosen line.

As far as locking and gearing, it seems pointless to pay for a setup twice unless you are able to do it yourself. The one exception there is if you go with a "lunchbox" locker because a full setup is not required. That is what I did, put a lockright into my 4.10 diff, because it was cheap and easy. It has been by far the best mod I've made. That said, I still didn't get the diff exactly right, but fortunately I live a few miles from the world famous ZUK and he looked it over and tightened a few things up for a very modest fee (and gave me a bit of a lesson as well).

To the OP, I would get a hold of ZUK for some recommendations. It seems like the "best" gear makers change around every several months. I would get his current opinion when you are ready to buy as he sees enough of them to know. I personally got Motive from this site:
http://stores.ebay.com/Just-Differen...QQftidZ2QQtZkm
They came in a package with a master install kit for a good price. I don't see that package now but you might be able to call and see if they would put one together for you. Service was very good. While you're talking to ZUK see about having him do the work for you. We also have a very good cryo place here in Scottsdale that can treat your gears for added strength. Make sure to ask ZUK about the front diff. I seem to remember that he doesn't do them or maybe it's just the newer clamshell style cases. Not sure. Get the straight poop from him.

Finally, I'm very happy with the performance of my lockright despite all the folks that will bag on it. That said, I have no experience in snow or ice with it and I also don't think I would ever consider one for the front. Hope that helps.

stormin94

I checked it, and I could've sworn it has 4.30's, but lots of folks here say they have 4.10's.....

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Those are great links, SpaceJunk I'm gonna add those to my "bearing" page!


Stormin94----get that axle code and we'll offer advice after that....you might even have a G144 code if so, then you have 488's already.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

no go ZUK... hes got a 5 spd... so no 4.88s for him...

i just got my 4.88 rear third from ZUK installed, and it is by far the best mod that ive done yet... took about 4 hours to tear down, clean up the carnage from the grenaded 4.56 gear, and reinstall... and thats taking an hour for a brew while i was waiting for the RTV to set up...

honestly... go gears first... then locker... then armor...
BUT learn to drive your truck effectively when you get your locker... dont do anything crazy if your worried about breaking stuff...

stormin94

Well, I triple checked my Axle code, and I have a G284, which decodes to 4.30, 4 pinion.

I'm thinking that regearing is not something I'd like to do in my drive way, since I have absolutely no prior experience with third members, or gearing of any kind. As much as I'd hate to pay a shop to do it, I think that's the road I'll have to chose, unless I can find a complete 4.88 third member that I can just swap in.

So the general consensus seems to be that gearing is top priority over locker, and armor.....

When I get some cash together, I'd like to get moving on regearing.

BTW, how much can I expect to pay for regearing?
how much to have a shop do the whole thing?
how much do 4.88 thirds cost at the junkyard?

Thanks for all the help to get me this far. At least I have an idea of priorities.

Jay351

Buy a set of diffs from a 92-95 4runner or pickup with:

3vze
auto
31" tire package from the factory

These 4.88 diffs usually go from 200-350 a set. They will drop right into your truck. Rear can be done in the driveway, I did both of mine that way. IF you can bleed your brakes, you can do it!

TurnerR

I completely disagree with this order. Thats just my opinion... I wheel every weekend and although I'm not in a Toyota at the moment I know a thing or two about wheeling. THINGS HAPPEN. You don't think your gonna slid but you do, or you get high centered and the only place to jack is the side to get you unstuck. In my personal opinion (for what its worth) I would not own a 4x4 without some sort of side protection. Sliders are the first thing you should buy no matter what terrain you wheel. Thats my opinion. My next choice would be a locker but I also recommend really wheeling what you have hard with open diffs first. I don't know how much or often you wheel but learning to pick the right lines, your width, ground clearance all from the drivers seat will teach you right off the bat how to wheel. Then a locker should come. It will take you places you never thought possible. If you decide open diffs for a while then my next mod after sliders would be a better t-case skid. I have never heard a bad thing from bud built. The thing I love love love about yota's over heeps is Gears! between extra t-cases and much lower gears available you can stop riding that clutch and really have some fun. Thats my take on the matter.

When I buy another toy this is the list of things I will buy in the order I think necessary.

1. Sliders
2. Rear Aussie
3. Dual case kit
4. T-case skid
5. SAS kit

I personally need a Solid axle for the terrain I wheel the most. Your list may be different but hopefully I can give you a little help deciding.