904_runner

So my driver side rear axle seal is broke. There was grease inside the drums, and i was told it was the inner seal.

Therefore i need to replace the seal, and i will probably replace the wheel bearings as well. Therefore i plan on replacing both sides while i am down there, so i don't have to pull it apart twice.

I was quote around $500 bucks for both sides, but really don't want to pay that much. I just wanted to know how hard it is to replace all bearings/seals required for the rear axle. And how much should this cost.

My estimate is around 270 and that is for all parts, and having the bearings pressed on and off, (toyota parts). SOund right?

What would be your guy's recommendations on what to do!


Thanks a bunch.

leebee

you can do all the work outside of pressing the brgs, unless you happen to have a press! good time to change out your diff fluids, tcase fluid and inspect and replace your brake fluid if required.

lee

John LTD

Both my rear axle seals went out and I didn't notice and the drums filled with fluid resulting in little to no stopping power but the front discs worked without me noticing until they couldn't take doing all the work any more and warped up on me, and only then did i discover everything else. It sucked.

904_runner

Thanks, i heard it was hard to do this, and that a shop would be better. But i plan on taking and having the bearings pressed on, but other than that is it pretty easy? Is there any manuals that show how to do this?

I just replaced all the diff fluid, but it is probably a good time to change the transmission, transfercase, brake, and clutch fluids.

I really need to do a tune-up, but don't have enough money now.

machabees

If you really need a tune up it should pay for itself pretty quickly in fuel economy.
As far as a manual goes check the FSM stickied on this board.

kmat123

My driver's side rear axle seal was puking out gear fluid a few months ago and I had to replace the inner and outter seals, get the old wheel bearing pressed out and a new one pressed in, and do a complete rear brake job since my shoes were soaked in gear oil. All said and done it cost me just over $100 including the machine work and was about a half a day job. It is overall a pretty easy job, but I would definitely recommend investing in a good seal puller and a seal driver kit (check out Harbor Freight for both), as the inner seal is kinda a bitch to get seated in properly. Also, make sure you have a couple caps around to cap the brake lines once you remove them from the backing plate. I would recommend checking out the FSM for detailed information, but it is pretty straight forward. Good luck

grandeyota

Yep. Rear wheel bearing writeup
I've changed mine twice using the method in that article, so far it has worked great.

This shows some good breakdowns of how the parts go together. Service manual

904_runner

Thanks a bunch. The only method i don't like is the banging the axle shaft on the ground to get the bearing off. I think i would get that pressed.

My question now is, the shop i was at said it was the inner seal which requires removing the third and its in there, is there a write up for that as well?

Also are those the same methods for a 4runner with ABS in the rear because i heard those were different

904_runner

That would be great then. I get between 15-18 mpg, mostly city. I coast down hill a lot so i thought that would increase it a bunch.

MonsterMaxx

Everything is easy except removing the retainer and bearing which are pressed on.

With the right tool, even that part is an easy 15-30 minute job.


Now, getting someone to do that...is a whole 'nother matter.


Last time I did mine I had axles and bearings in hand, called Toyota of Greer (SC) and asked what it'd cost to replace the bearings with parts in hand. Was quoted $500. I told the service writer it was already apart and all I needed was to have the bearings pressed on - 1/2hr task maximum. She agreed, I went there. Gave the parts to the mechanic and waited (could clearly see him.) About a half hour later he started on my parts, was finished and washing his hands in 20 minutes. I went to pay and they said the bill would be at the counter, went there and they tried to jack me for $500!!!

I told them this was not what we agreed, that it was a 20 minute job. So she says "well, book says 4 hours how about we reduce it to that? I said NO! How about billing me for the work that was done as agreed.

After arguing with them for 30 minutes I finally paid 2 hours of labor and left...forever. I will never darken their door again.


So, get the quote up front and don't pay a dime more. With the right tools (it's a tube w/ a flange on it) it's 30 minutes of labor MAXIMUM to pull the bearings and retainers off the axle and replace them with new parts.

904_runner

Well, there is a machine shop around here that qouted me $40 bucks a side to get the bearings pressed off/on.

So is it something that is pretty easy and i should try myself or should i just pay $500 bucks for all toyota parts W/ labor?

MonsterMaxx

Toyota gets their bearings the same places everyone else does - China. They are probably Timkin anyway.

To be honest I can't remember where I got my last ones, but I think it was a bearing supply house.

I'd think if a machine shop has the right tools that $40 would be enough for both sides.

If you've got the skilz do it yourself.

904_runner

Idk if i have the skills, i hope i could figure it out.
I did have to rewire and replace a bunch of stuff in the engine compartment after a fire, Got a BUNCH of help from family.

But i have never taken apart an axle assembly before

MonsterMaxx

You aren't taking apart the whole rear end.

Pinch the brake line.
Remove the brake lines from wheel cylinders
Remove the 4 bolts holding the flange to the housing.
Slide the axle assy out.

Assemble the opposite way, add cleaning for the bearing and seal it to the housing w/ a LITTLE RTV.

904_runner

I was told an inner seal was out, They said I would have to Remove the 3rd member and replace one in there.

MonsterMaxx

I am pretty sure there is NO inner seal on the Toy V6 rear end. There are splash guards in there, but no seal - wheel bearings provide the seal.

I'm digging thru my memory from 2+ yrs ago when the Eaton TrueTrac factory bolts fell out and did tons of damage and I had to disassemble the whole rear end down to bear housing so I could get all the metal fragments out and I do not remember any inner seals. (not that my memory is infallible)

I'm almost positive that the seal is only at the bearings, but can't remember for sure. Unfortunatly that's in FSM Volume 2 and I only have volume 1 so I can't look it up for you.

Even so, removing the 3rd is easy too. 4 bolts at the drive shaft and a dozen or so around the 3rd and it comes right out (once the axles are out of course.) The splash sheilds aren't attached, just clipped in.

904_runner

Okay, THANKS A BUNCH!

Ill do some more research and let you know what i find

leebee

the main thing you have to be careful with is, reinstalling the axle shafts through the seal. be gentle as the seal can be deformed if the axle hits it too hard and you will have a leak again. the outer seal is more of a dust cover.

as MM said, a machine shop with proper tools and 40$ = good to go.

lee

olharleyman

I'm almost positive that the seal is only at the bearings, but can't remember for sure.
That is correct when I did mine the hardest part was pulling the axles out and when you go to reinstall the seal on the axle lip of it add some greese to the lip where it has the little valley it will help ease the axle and help stop it from tearing or disforming causing yet another leak.

grandeyota

You do NOT have to remove the 3rd to pull the axles out and change the bearings. Whoever told you that is not correct. The axles just slide in/out after you disconnect the brake stuff and the 4 bolts that hold it in.

I thought beating them on the ground like in the artice I posted above was a little cave man, but it works very well. I use a piece of 1/2" plywood that is big enough I don't have to worry about missing when I hit the axle on the ground. I've done this many times(not just for my truck) with no damage whatsoever. Takes under 1/2 hour for BOTH sides to come apart. Just take the C-clip off first .

To press the bearings back on, I just went to a local steel shop and got a piece of tube/pipe that fit around the axle and hit the bearing retainer to pound it back on. The steel was like $10 and just the weight of it is enough to pound the bearing down all the way in like under a minuite. There are 2 seals, the one in the axle tube (inner) and the one in the brake part (outer).

Look at the inner seal Marlin crawler has, I like the way they designed it. They sell a kit too for all the parts you need for like $150.
I get Toyota parts from www.1sttoyotaparts.com, they are way cheaper than my local dealer even after shipping.

Seriously, this is very simple and once you do it and see what is involced you will not think twice about tearing into it again.