DudeBud

what would cause a motor to run better with the #2 plug wire removed? on the way home from work yesterday, noticed that it was missing well at least it felt that way but its just idling weird sounds loopy. once you pull the #2 plug wire it runs smother. all others is just misses.


tested.... tps, ecm, coil, plug wires, newer cap and rotor, plugs even look fine

engine has less than 150 miles on it, just built it last week ran great before yesterday

comp test puts it at 180psi on all 4 holes

next guess is the distributor

abecedarian

valve adjustment?

DudeBud

did that before initial start. engine is very quiet.

abecedarian

yeah, but checked them since?

DudeBud

nope, but how would that cause my problem

abecedarian

okay, bear with me a moment...
#2 intake valve is slightly too tight, lets compression push gasses up through the valve/intake... other 3 cylinders suck those gasses in and don't combust properly... disconnecting #2 spark plug removes the problem of combustion gasses being pushed up the intake (since there's no combustion occuring in #2 now) so other cylinders now have clean air and fuel to burn so problem goes away.

and maybe I'll amend my opinion depending on what your reply is to this question: why did the engine need rebuilding and what work was done?

DudeBud

hmmm that may be, I'll have to recheck seems to make since and its obvious enough that it would pass me

as for why i rebuilt just worn out I built it back in 2000 its been in every Toyota I have owned.

abecedarian

so you built this engine back in 2000 and it's only got 150 miles on it?
...or did I misunderstand what you wrote?

DudeBud

yeah you just miss understood. engine i built back in had 350k on it, smoked like a chimney (about 2 quarts a week).

well your suggestion as much as i wanted it to be the valves its not. I even took then a little loose.

abecedarian

not trying to argue or nothing here, but are you sure the valves are seating properly? cause even if they're adjusted, if they're not seating, would produce a similar problem.

DudeBud

well the only way I'm going to figure that out is doing a LDT, but with the motor being this new its going to be hard to tell exactly where the air is escaping. what boggles me is that it still has 180psi as with the others. what you are saying makes since, this is just frustrating. I'm positive that all the guides were in good shape, same with the valves.

abecedarian

were the rings timed properly during install?

otherwise, I agree and think a leak down test is in order, at least in order to eliminate possible causes.

abecedarian

but... before you go that far, check out continuity in the injector harness

DudeBud

what ya mean aren't i supposed to line up all the gaps

I'll test the harness tomorrow. I took my stethoscope and carefully listen to each injector they sounded the same.

DudeBud

ok so this motor runs great now. getting crappy mileage so I'm going to buy a set of injectors off ebay, send them to get cleaned. I need to know what injectors will work. i know that certain years have different plugs on the harness.

thanks in advance

DudeBud

anyone?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

If we are talking 1988 22RE....then according to my interchange, only 88 will work. Different style of plug, and it changed again in 1989.

AZ89LONGBED

iTrader: (3)

1988 injectors only work on 1988 22re`s.

87 & earlier are one part number, and 89-95`s use the same part number.

You could swap in an 89 intake manifold & injectors, the 89 + intakes are suppossed to be better than 88 & earlier styles.

DudeBud

I'm hoping I can swap in 89-95 injectors with just a plug swap, since they seem more common.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

When you find the wiring harness connectors, you could just pin the connectors out, then you wouldn't have to cut and splice