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WEBER 32/36: high idle and a bunch of other BS

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Old 12-14-2016, 10:33 PM
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WEBER 32/36: high idle and a bunch of other BS

This place is a ghost town these days, but I'll give it a try anyway...

Brand new Weber installed on an 89 2WD 22r, just cannot get it to run right. Will not idle below 1000rpm, even with the idle speed screw completely out of contact with the throttle linkage. And it actually runs better/smoother with idle set to around 1500rpm, which is obviously way, WAY off.

Used Redline's "best lean" procedure about a hundred times trying to find the right combination of adjustments. Carb seems to be performing best with the idle mixture screw exactly two turns out, but still not great.

No binding cables... mechanical choke completely disengaged... all throttle linkage buttery smooth, throttle shaft nut torqued just right...

Tried many different timing settings, seems to run best advanced to 5-degrees with advance/retard ports capped. Advances to just over 12-degrees with lines connected. Had trouble using manifold vacuum on the rear/retard port at first; idle would drop and the engine would run like crap, like it was starving for air. It actually ran best with that line left completely open... as in, it actually ran better with a massive vacuum leak. I teed this idle retarding line into the line for the charcoal canister; it runs about as well like this as it did with the line left open.

I've been at this for DAYS and I feel like this is as good as it's going to get. I've read pages and pages and freaking PAGES of Weber tuning info and I haven't found any solutions thus far. I'm stumped about the high idle and I'm not convinced I need richer jets because the mixture screw's adjustment does not exceed the allowable limits for the jets I already have.

Smokes like a BEEOTCH, also. White smoke, but no coolant in the oil and the coolant level never changes. It's related to the fueling somehow.

I've owned 30+ cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc over the past 20-ish years, and I gotta say... this Toyota pickup has been the biggest pain in the ass of them all. By a lot. It's been giving me crap since the day I bought it 4+ years ago, and no amount of tinkering ever seems to fix it. First Toyota I've ever owned... and probably the last.
Old 12-15-2016, 08:20 AM
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Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? Webers are sensitive to fuel pressure and need 2 to 3 psi. The stock pump does around 7. Another thing is they are very sensitive to any vacuum leaks, even a leaky timing cover can throw them off. In your case with high idle i would suspect fuel pressure or timing vacuum, the vacuum switch on the distributor is probably bad, you can pressure test the switch, they should hold a vacuum indefinitely, both ports. If they dont its time for a new distributor.
Old 12-15-2016, 09:26 AM
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I'm running a Weber fuel pressure regulator at about 2psi (see photo). I can't find any vacuum leaks around the intake and carb, but I suppose I can't rule out the timing cover. No idea how to check for leaks there, honestly. But as I mentioned in my original post, the thing actually runs better with an open vacuum line.

Maybe it's the advance module / distributor, but I really don't feel like sinking another $150-200 into this old thing, especially if it's not a guaranteed fix...
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Old 12-16-2016, 01:47 PM
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Timing cover leak would just be an obvious oil leak. Come to think of it you should be able to cap all the vacuum ports and get it dialed in at idle, if you cant get it to do this and there is no intake leaks i suspect something is wrong with the carb itself. If its a genuine weber you should be able to get a new one exchanged. As far as a new distributor, i just bought one from discount body parts.com on sale right now for $60 including shipping, new not remanufactured. Works great. If it runs afoul after idle this would be my first thought but you should be able to dial that carb in at idle with vacuums plugged.



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