water pump / timing belt...
10-15-2009, 09:11 PM
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Need your help on this one please
95 'Runner 3.0 V6 4x4 5speed...
water pump was leaking...ok replace. which means timing belt and all anything else worth maintaining while everything is torn apart. no big deal right. ok so i had a feeling everything was going far too well and it was. Not that things were just super perfect (as they rarely are anyway when wrenching) but i hadnt had any major hangups, broken parts, damaged hardware or other general difficulties... until of course it comes to re installing the starter and torqing the lower (front) starter bolt if you can believe it. I know, torqing the crankshaft bolt, no prob. starter, forget about it. Now this has nothing to do with the absolutey perfect location toyota has determined the starter to be, nor the ergonomic angles for reaching the bolts, infact the issue is purely related to (a) either a highly unusual type of wear that occurs at random, or (b) the careful doing of a very meticulous highly skilled mechanic who had previously worked on the vehicle. Personally I am inclined to lean towards the (b). At this point you either know why I am talking about reinstalling the starter in which case you can skip down to the next paragraph or you will keep reading. The starter bolts must be removed and the starter moved out of the way of the flywheel teeth so that a prybar can be wedged in to prevent crank from turning while torqing or removing the vibration damper (harmonic pulley).
When time to reinstall the starter bolts and re tighten, the upper (rear) went well, the lower (front) not so good. Basically the bolt would thread into its very easy to reach hole, however it WOULD NOT TORQUE!!!!!!! The threads are shot. Aluminum threads + steel bolt + stupid mechanic(not me) = BAD DAY FOR ME.
Anyway, i have a feeling its been like this for a while as when i removed the bolts the rear came out as usual, the front felt as if it were not even hand tight. Who knows... either way im not sure what i can do about it (i.e....re-tap)as its in the (transmission/engine) housing not the starter itself or the hardware.
Any and all response / input is GREATLY appreciated.
water pump was leaking...ok replace. which means timing belt and all anything else worth maintaining while everything is torn apart. no big deal right. ok so i had a feeling everything was going far too well and it was. Not that things were just super perfect (as they rarely are anyway when wrenching) but i hadnt had any major hangups, broken parts, damaged hardware or other general difficulties... until of course it comes to re installing the starter and torqing the lower (front) starter bolt if you can believe it. I know, torqing the crankshaft bolt, no prob. starter, forget about it. Now this has nothing to do with the absolutey perfect location toyota has determined the starter to be, nor the ergonomic angles for reaching the bolts, infact the issue is purely related to (a) either a highly unusual type of wear that occurs at random, or (b) the careful doing of a very meticulous highly skilled mechanic who had previously worked on the vehicle. Personally I am inclined to lean towards the (b). At this point you either know why I am talking about reinstalling the starter in which case you can skip down to the next paragraph or you will keep reading. The starter bolts must be removed and the starter moved out of the way of the flywheel teeth so that a prybar can be wedged in to prevent crank from turning while torqing or removing the vibration damper (harmonic pulley).
When time to reinstall the starter bolts and re tighten, the upper (rear) went well, the lower (front) not so good. Basically the bolt would thread into its very easy to reach hole, however it WOULD NOT TORQUE!!!!!!! The threads are shot. Aluminum threads + steel bolt + stupid mechanic(not me) = BAD DAY FOR ME.
Anyway, i have a feeling its been like this for a while as when i removed the bolts the rear came out as usual, the front felt as if it were not even hand tight. Who knows... either way im not sure what i can do about it (i.e....re-tap)as its in the (transmission/engine) housing not the starter itself or the hardware.
Any and all response / input is GREATLY appreciated.
Last edited by 818 AV8R; 10-15-2009 at 09:20 PM.
10-15-2009, 09:38 PM
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tried that minus the transfercase low gear part. maybe that would have gotten me there. i tried it in reverse and was getting way too much movement of the crank and i didnt want to have to re find tdc no.1 compression.... i dont know why i didnt think of that, i guess cause im by the book lol.. they should have put that in the book lol.
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