87blyota

About a week ago I decided to spray off my 22r to find where a oil leak was starting. Almost immediately after the water hit it started to die out and run horrible. I got it started again but it does not want to idle now. It doesn't die but definitely has a miss, anything over 1500 rpm and it'll run fine like going down the road nothing is noticeable. I checked to make sure I was getting spark at the end of every wire before the spark plugs and I am so i am not really sure where to start. Is it possible for a spark plug to short out?

scope103

The most likely cause is water in the distributor. As the ignition advances with decreased vacuum, the "point" of spark moves off the wet spot.

Remove the distributor cap and leave it off for an hour on a dry, sunny, day.

If that doesn't work, there are lots of other places water could have gotten too (like inside a not-too-good wiring harness). Those might be harder to find.

Good luck!

87blyota

Already went through and sprayed all connections out with a wd40 including the cap. I had a old timer tell me a while ago that without a blue spark it wont ignite anything when I was testing the spark it was more of a orange color not sure if that actually means anything.

magnet18

Spark, air, fuel

sounds like you mostly eliminated spark, it's been a week so the outside of the engine is dry I assume. I would pull the wires off the plugs, clean both, dielectric grease, and reinstall. water could have sucked up into the wire and now be causing that wire to short to the engine block.
Water and voltage can cause metal ions to align and actually track across a surface, effectively GROWING a wire from one point to another. I've seen it happen INSIDE circuit boards at work (very rare, but it happens) could have happened along the surface of your spark plug.
if you want to take a trip to science land - http://www.parkelectro.com/parkelect...%20Article.pdf
since you pulled the wires to check for spark, and it's still happening, that is unlikely though.


then move on to air and fuel. make sure you don't have a sopping wet air filter. make sure your throttle body isn't full of water. look for any vacuum lines you might have squirted water into

running wide open on the highway just fine means it is probably something with an idle system, do you have a FSM?

magnet18

these caps have orings that go bad, if you've never replaced yours, it's bad

wd40 inside your distributor cap won't solve the problem either

87blyota

I was referring to cleaning the cap out with wd40 and drying it. I do have a FSM but cant find my multimeter for the life of me to start checking components.

87blyota

broke down bought another multi meter tested everything it was all in range except the ignition coil it was measuring .7 to .8 ohms the fsm say .5 is the max so safe to assume it is bad?

scope103

Uh, probably not. Unless you have an expensive 4-wire (Kelvin) ohmmeter, 0.7 ohms is probably well below the accuracy of your meter.

Test it from the end; put the inductive pickup from your timing light on each plug wire. If the light flashes, the plug is firing. You might be able to find one that isn't firing at idle. Then check that plug and plug wire.

87blyota

Well if that's the case all plugs fire at idle. Drove the truck a little today also noticed it has a buck when deccelerating like the engine wants to cut out bit the momentum keeps it going.

87blyota

Don't beat me up too hard but found 3 cracked and practically off vacuum caps and a few vacuum lined off.

87blyota

Still can't get this thing figured out got the vacuum leaks fixed but it is still missing at idle

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Wow those vacuum caps are really bad, never seen one bad yet personally lol.

Yellow/orange spark isn't right at all, you might have a weak coil (high resistance does suggest that, but in my head 0.2 ohms is probably not enough to really flag it.

I've seen some spark plug wires that are complete crap, and water makes a mini lighting storm show at night time (big time when the engine gets rev'ed on an EFI engine). Are the plug wires old, know when they were last changed? I personally would only run OEM brands like NGK or Denso for plugs and wires.

I'm not sure if your situation could be caused from a failing igniter, but could be another thing to add to the list of possible parts. If you know anyone with a similar year/model truck, swapping parts to test is sometimes really nice, and saves a lot of money if you're guessing which part to replace.

As mentioned above, distributors are really effected by moisture, since you've already dried it out, maybe the pickup coil inside it is getting weak/bad. FSM should have ohm readings for them.

If you used a power washer, maybe a wire came disconnected, or if your wire is getting dry rotted/brittle/cracking up, it could knock the insulation off and be shorting out signals. Kind of worst case, but still another thing to keep an eye out for.

87blyota

The ignitor and the distributor itself are the only parts of the ignition system that have not been replaced in the past year. I put a new engine in last summer and did all basic maintenance at the same time plugs, cao, rotor, ignition coil, ect.

87blyota

Checked pickup coil and get a reading of 160 and is in spec.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have washed many 22 motors. It may sound simple but when was the last tune up with great quality parts? I have fixed several problems just with great quality tune up parts and then go looking for the problem. You would be surprised at the number of parts that are still on from the factory. The Aisin carb does not like any leaks. All hoses in good condition? Since your vacuum caps are cracked, it makes me wonder how your hoses condition are in.

I would check the Primary and Secondary on your coil with a resistance meter. I bought a truck that would spark the plug but not ignite the fuel. It was a bad coil on it. New coil and it fired right up.

87blyota

The coil tested fine when I ohmed it out. Guess my only option right now is to start replacing things.

87blyota

did a tune up today with plugs wires cap and rotor and it is still running the same. spent 6 hours hunting for vacuum leaks and replacing hoses and still no avail.

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked your ignitor?

87blyota

Wouldn't the truck not run at all with a bad ignitor?

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

Ah crap I thought the truck wasn't starting at all.