warm-up bogging..help!!!
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Somebody......anybody??? Help
I can have it sit there and warmup completley and it will run fine. no idle issues. but if i get in it and drive when it is cold(truck temp), its fine all the way up untill it gets right before normal temp on the guage. it will start to miss real bad and bog, but only for like 10 secs. after that it runs perfect once again. i just got done pulling the engine. im not sure if i ruined a sensor cleaning everything??? figured i would get some help here,to know where to start looking. does not throw codes. im completley guessing and questioning the cold start injector?? or is that just for startup at cold temp. doesnt it also regulate all the way through warmup> this is all just rambling for me
thank you guys....please start at point 1 for me
thank you guys....please start at point 1 for me
Last edited by bensyota; 06-12-2013 at 05:53 PM. Reason: attention needed
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...35auxiliar.pdf
We have the wax type air valve described on page 8
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf
Issue is likely caused by a discrepencey between the ECT(engine coolant temp sensor) and the IACV(Idle air control valve, aka Aux air). Also be aware the gauge uses a third sensor not hooked up to the computer.
We have the wax type air valve described on page 8
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf
Issue is likely caused by a discrepencey between the ECT(engine coolant temp sensor) and the IACV(Idle air control valve, aka Aux air). Also be aware the gauge uses a third sensor not hooked up to the computer.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
well the first link is to 22re troubleshooting. i read about the aux air valve> it seems like an easy check. but pretty vague at the same time. i dunno?? i cant find the part about engine coolant temp sensor
if anybody else has any ideas fell free...i will report back after trying this
if anybody else has any ideas fell free...i will report back after trying this
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Does anybody think that adjusting my maf will solve this problem. I did an isr mod, headers, high flow cat, and 2.5 exhaust on this while restoring it. I've read that others guys had this prob just from an intake mod and adjusting the maf solved the problem. I've read threads on this with cutting silicone seal and dealing with the gear and turning it cc about 5 clicks max or to desired. Mark position before hand. Does anybody have some good links to thi mod maybe I haven't seen yet. I mainly seen this on 4 cyl and was wondering if its the same with my 3 slow. Thank u all
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well. I solved my own problem. I couldn't wait. I razored the silicone seal, I didn't loosen any screw at all. I simply marked the gear at start. Used a screwdriver to pull back the arm that goes in the teeth of the gear. Then used my hand to secure spring loaded gear and turned it counterclockwise. I started with 2 clicks, went to 4, and ended at 6 right now. Def a huge difference. I would say anybody who ha done mods and haven't noticed much change or a minor runnin problem to check into this. I had all this done and my other complete stock truck was running way better. I didn't get it. Although the one I modded slightly is an ext cab with bigger tires. I'm not saying it rips by no means but it, once again, runs hell if a lot better than it did. Ps: remember to pull battery cable in between settings to reset the computer. Or efi fuse I believe?
Last edited by bensyota; 04-22-2013 at 03:22 AM.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
im still not satisfied yet. im goin to advance the timing to 14* and see what it does. everything is good but at high rpms. it just doesnt want to go. ill let the unknown spectators know what this does for me.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
i forgot to mention that when i pulled the engine. i also did an isr mod, dthorley headers and 2 1/2 exhaust with a high flow cat....this is the whole reason i believe im expierencing this. which i forgot to mention and the reason i adjusted the afm,. i figure all that air its getting now it needed fuel. it def helped, but just not satisfied. im used to my single cab. can somebody tell me how much power my xcab should have. it has 32-11.5 on it. the 4th and 5th gear power is just not there at all. did i put to big of a diameter exhaust on>??? when i gas it in 4th and 5th it really doesnt gain any speed at all...it also starts to shake somewhat.
i need some input
i need some input
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, found the culprit to the shaking. My carrier bearing is GONE. Now. Can somebody please help me with this question. if my timing is perfect. No bouncing in the line at all when timing. Very smooth. Can that eliminate questions about my cams being off with the belt or the distributor being misaligned?
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
i would love for someone to chime in please,...i am on here for help and so far nothing. my truck runs like CRAP basically. i went to change the timing today and noticed that the strobe has significant hesitations on the #1 plug wire. i checked the rest and got some hesitation on #6 as well. i went to take it for a test drive after advancing it and couldnt even make it out of my driveway. its getting worse every time i drive it. this thing should run like a top...took upper rad hose, fan and timing cover off two days ago to check my timing. every thing is spot on. another note...idle screw barely does anything at all. i checked resistance on vafm and perfect. checked rotor pointing to #1 at tdc and its on. truck isnt throwing any codes. u think it would for running like crap.all new cap, rotor, plugs, wire, all factory, adjusted valves, pcv, adjusted tps...im gonna do a compression check this weekend but i just have a feeling its something else. somebody please give me some imput....i would highly appreciate i!!! i will admit that i havnt checked coolant temp sensor yet for i havnt found an easy walk through on how to do it
Last edited by bensyota; 06-17-2013 at 07:00 PM.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
just did compression check today> was looking questionable at first. I was only cranking at 3 compression strokes. pass side was 170, 160,160 and drivers side was all around 152. i then went to 5 compression strokes and the drivers side went up to 170-175. which made me feel alot better and as did the pass side. so now im going to do a fuel pressure check. iv searched and some were told to use the cold start injector as a check point and others were told to use ports on the fuel rails.?? i know its supposed to be 38-44psi. if pressure is bad check voltage. if voltage is good, replace pump. if pressure is high, regulater is bad?? i dont think any of these test are gonna fail though..i could be wrong. just put a new fuel filter on today as well i had laying around since build. my truck is jsut getting completely worse. CAN SOMEBODY THROW SOMETHING AT ME PLEASE!!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Reno_eNVy
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
11
03-20-2015 07:29 PM
FingerMan20
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
2
06-30-2005 07:24 AM