iamspt

There is a wealth of detailed info here on the board which has confused the crap out of me. Not that Im complaining but I need some help. I was hoping someone can set me straight.

Here is what I want to lift and what I plan to do with it...

The truck: Stock 88 pickup 4x4 with 22RE 5 speed. 130K Miles. Original owner.
Tires I'd like to run: 33's... Maybe 35's if I can get away with it safely
Proposed use: Mud and trail riding. No rocks. Also will see some street use.

How would you lift this truck? Suspension lift? What tire size, rim size and offset would you run? What about gearing?

Any help is much apreciated!

olharleyman

Go with the suspension lift and regear to 5.29 for the 35s also lock it at the same time and wheels depend on what lift you use they pretty much tell you what to use backspacing wise for the lift.

tc

Go with 33x10.50 and no lift.

KyleT

x2.

iamspt

33's will fit without a lift and will not rub? What about rim offsets?

MudHippy

I'v got an 88 std cab longbed V6, 3" body lift, 2" rear springs and torsion bars cranked up front, 4:30 gears and 35x12.5's on some well backspaced rims, 6". I love it for what I do, lots o' mud, it's real good in the snow, too. It rubs slightly when turning sharp under compression, doesn't bug me. Handles well on the road, also.

drguitarum2005

they said 33x10.5, not 35, 35 will NOT fit without a lift. the 33x10.5's will likely require some fender trimming and/or pinch weld pounding so they dont rub.

you can fit up to 33x12.5 with a lift without getting super expensive. once you hit 35s you have to throw gearing into the equation and thats a lot more money.

tc

33x10.50 on the stock rims, with maybe some valance trimming (or removal)

One guy on here (Toyofast) ran 35x10.50 with no lift. He said it didn't rub too bad - the pix looked like it rubbed like hell to me..

91ToyTrck

I would totally agree with the running of 33x10.50s on stock suspension. If you throw in some gears and at least a rear locker.

drguitarum2005

thatd be nice but those arent necessary. you can get by with 33" tires on stock suspension (assuming its 4.10s, dont know about any lower). the other stuff is nice, but like i said, not completely necessary

tc

I had 33's with the factory 4.56's and it was totally driveable, but I was doing lockers so put 4.88's in at the time (despite people saying I would neer tell the difference of one step in gear ratio) and it is noticeably better.

shantz

yep 33's and no lift.
I don't think I will lift another truck again

elripster

I did the same thing on my '89 and found the same results, 4.88's with 33's were much better than 4.56's. They undergeared the truck just enough to compensate for the extra mass and drag of larger tires and other offroad goodies. I had the 3.0. The extra torque at the wheel was nice on the trail too.

Frank

AH64ID

If you want to run 35's check out the 92 in my sig, 35's no rub, minimal trimming. Its the min you can do w/out a body lift.

91ToyTrck

I know they may not be necessary, but so much nicer. The money you are saving from not liftingg why not throw somewhere it's going to count right off the bat. I'm doing this right now. I'm getting 4.88s, Rear Locker, SS IFS Truss and an Idle Arm Brace within the next 2 months. I learned from readiing up and asking the same questions.

We might as well point him in the correct direction right out the gate ... correct?

AH64ID

Thats about the order I went in, 4.88's, ARB were first. Then the POS (did I say POS) rancho 3" lift and 32" swampers.. it went anywhere I go now with 35's, just took more convincing sometimes. Then I started working rear bumper.. should have done sliders too, but waited till after the 4"....

I love my 35's, but my next truck wont have em as I dont wheel where they are necessary.