bpealer

Hi, new to the forum and 4runners. I love this truck but the 3vze makes me appreciate my Datsuns a little more now.

Just need to rant. Anyways, I bought the truck a few weeks ago for 900.00 a few weeks ago. I guess the guy couldn't smog it so he let it go cheap. I just started to go through the engine and do the usual tune up stuff.

I never seen such a neglected engine in my 31 years. Missing engine mount bolts, bypassed heater valve, loose spark plugs, etc. Surprisingly it runs fairly decent, albeit a little sluggish.

Heres the kicker. I go to replace the air flow meter boot, the one that comes off the throttle body, and notice sludge on the inside. First thought was bad pcv, do my best to feel under the intake manifold to find the hose coming off it. Instead of the pcv I found an oil filler cap! And yes this was on the passenger side. Looks like somebody did some top end work because the heads are a lot cleaner than the rest of the engine. I guess they lost the passenger side valve cover and used a driver side.

Kinda glad though, now I know where that hissing sound is coming from.

Would the wrong valve cover even fit properly? Both are leaking pretty bad on the back side so the manifold is coming off anyways. Plus I have to replace the knock sensor harness as well. Thats all, just had to introduce myself and vent at the same time. Heres my truck btw, 94 Sr5 4x4 5speed.

Gamefreakgc

Except for the fact that your truck is missing a PCV valve (probably why it won't pass smog!) on the valve cover, they can fit ok. I think the screw on the end of the cover won't line up right though. Not recommended at all though since without the PCV valve you're passing a lot of HC's out the exhaust.

scope103

I'm 99% sure the cover "could" fit on either side. But you might as well fix it.

While the missing PCV valve could cause smog problems, it sounds like everything else is contributing as well. A PCV valve IS required in CA. Even if it isn't in your state, you'd hate to get it all buttoned up and learn you're just barely failing on HC.

I'm sure you were expecting quite a bit of work, given what you paid. But it's a nice looking 4runner, and I expect you'll come out way ahead in the end.

bpealer

Well just spent an hour under the truck degreasing everything. Looks like the oil pump/main seal is leaking pretty bad. Like a drip every 2 seconds bad. I'm starting to get worried about how this engine was reassembled. Oil filter was barely on, oil pan bolts finger loose. Yea, for 900 I knew I'd need to fix some stuff. Better to take care of it now and avoid any major problems.

I have a feeling I'm gonna get a case of the "while I'm in here..." I start my job next month so redoing the cooling/timing stuff will make me feel better.

bpealer

Actually I meant the front main seal. Gonna replace that real quick first to see if helps.

scope103

If you got it "very" clean, then eyeballing a drip will work to tell where it is coming from. Every oil leak on an engine looks like it's coming from somewhere on the bottom (usually the rear main, but sometimes the front main). You might find it's actually coming from the oil pump, or even the front edge of the valve cover.

Of course, you WILL replace the timing belt while you're in there. It's up to you whether you also replace the tensioner pulleys (personally, I feel they're okay if you can finger turn them and feel nothing; others say "replace them while you have the chance.")

The spec torque on the crankshaft bolt is 181 ftlbs; how will you keep the crank from turning while you try to take it off? Some on this forum will suggest you put a wrench on the bolt and use the starter to spin out the bolt. Not only is this really dangerous, but how are you going to hit 181 ftlbs when you put the bolt back in? You need something to hold the crank against the force of your wrench. I, of course, am partial to this one, but there are lots of really clever shop-made tools described on this forum.

Good luck!

bpealer

Thanks for the suggestions. If there's a gasket/seal, its leaking on this engine, lol. With the engine running its squirting out where the front main seal is. Of course it could be the oil pump too. Won't know till I dive in. Hopefully its just the main seal so I can get the dripping under control, my wife is not a fan of my oil designs on the driveway.

I made a tool similar to the one you linked for my 280zx crank pulley. Now I just gotta find it.

On a side note, I hear a lot of guys complaining about the vacuum lines on these trucks. My 280zx may have had 3x as many. Like a spaghetti factory! lol. I love that car though, getting it ready for an engine swap.