DupermanDave

I was reading over the FSM on my computer (my manual is in the back of the subaru across town). I'm using this link here: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf

Anyway, on page 21 it has the valve lash adjustment procedures. I'm not sure I understand them fully. They're pretty simple to follow, but I'm still confused. I thought on the 22re, during the intake stroke, cylinders 1 and 3 are on the same stroke and 2 and 4 are on the other stroke. Am I wrong? So as the engine is running, 1 and 3 move up and down together, and 2 and 4 are together on the opposite stroke.

From the front of the engine, isn't the cylinder order <----Front - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 ----> Rear ???

Also, every post I've read on the forums say to do the valve lash adjustments while the engine is hot. The FSM says to do it cold, but it hints at doing it while the engine is warmed up. Why the contradictions?

Hayes

I don't know about most of your questions but as for the hot or cold adjustment, you should make the first adjustment when it's cold (first meaning new engine) and then make one at a warmed temperature when the motor breaks in. Everytime I set my valves it was at a hot temp, except when the engine was brand new and had never been run.

DupermanDave

Also, for the engine being TDC with cylinder #1 being on its compression stroke, shouldnt the rotor in the distributor also be at #1?

whokrz

I set mine at 7 and 11 cold or 8 and 12 hot. I also torque the head bolts when I do it.
front 1,2,3,4 is correct but that is not the firing order. In the fsm it tells you how to install a distributor.

abecedarian

Cylinders are 1,2,3,4 front to rear. Firing order is 1,3,4,2.
Clearances should be set hot, .008" intake, .012" exhaust. If they valves are noisy at that clearance, .007" intake and .011" exhaust (possibly even .010" if the rocker shafts have some wear) are acceptable from what I hear, but running the exhaust valves too tight can cause them to run too hot and burn/warp since they won't spend enough time on the seat to conduct heat out to the head.

As for why a manual would contradict itself, perhaps the writer was an idiot?

DupermanDave

If the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2, on the first set of adjustments shouldnt I be adjusting sets 1 and 3? not 1 and 2?

Country Hank

Cylinders 1 & 3 may be "up" at the same time but on different strokes. The procedure should have you a #1 TDC compression stroke while adjusting half of the valves, I don't have the "schedule" in front of me but I would guess you can trust the manual or guide for the correct sequence. While the #1 may be at TDC you need to make sure it is on the compression stroke. Both valves should be fully closed and there should be some play in the rockers when on the comp stroke. Adjust at .002 GREATER than the "warm" spec (metal expands when hot, closing the gap slightly) This should be .010 intake and .012 exhaust (cold) if memory serves me.