Adamantoise

Hi! I have read many threads on this board, and all of you are definitely knowledgeable about what's going on. I have no doubt that someone on here can recognize the pieces I am referring to.

I have a 1986 pickup that I have had for about 20 years. I recently had to buy a new engine (standard 4 cyl. carbed 22r). It cost $900, I pulled it out and brought it home. Disconnected everything to pull old engine. Bought a hoist 2 days later. Then it rained. And snowed. Couldn't do anything. Finally got it in. Now it won't run. Found a picture I had taken almost one month ago exactly, where the missing pieces are shown, albeit vaguely. Where they went, I have no clue. I've looked everywhere, and everyone here is getting very, very discouraged.

The first picture is the diagram that the Toyota dealership printed for me (based on using my vin) and everything is hooked up exactly like it says. The second hose coming out of the four way isn't hooked up to anything but tries to suck (or pull air) when I try and start the truck. The two hookups in the middle, not leading anywhere, are shown in another diagram. The left leads to the charcoal canisters and the right one is shown leading to the carburetor.

But it still doesn't run. The second picture, which I ran through some image filters to try and lighten up to show the lines a little better shows pieces that apparently were thrown away, stolen, or dragged off by the dogs.

The circle in the top left shows a bracket with two VCV(?)s with four hoses attached to it. Three hoses are still attached. The fourth is missing. Also, the wiring harness to power this piece (There's a large blue, large red, and small green wire that is missing, but once powered the piece). I have the piece and bracket (the dealership couldn't identify it) but nothing that hooks up to it.

Right of the teal circle, slightly above the yellow circle, uncircled, is a vacuum type piece with two places for vacuum lines and a place to plug it up to power. This, and the similar piece on the opposite site of the black canister (circled in yellow) do not have anything to hook up to.

What is the black canister's purpose, what's it called, where can I get another one, or how can I bypass it?

Also, circled in red, is a yellow line with a blue ending. I have that. But it's not attached to anything. The end of the yellow line possesses only exposed wires, with nothing to attach to. Above the blue piece that runs behind the downward running hose is a male ended adapter which probably plugs into the vacuum piece I was talking about a minute ago, and both of these run into an insulated sleeve, leading into a female adapter, which also has no where to plug into.

The third picture shows the new engine before it was installed. Circled in lime is a piece I can't find on any diagram. What hooks into the circled piece? And what is it?

Please help me get my Yota running, guys, before everyone here slap gives up.

Adamantoise

williscr3

man... your in deep with vacuum lines... although im not familiar with toyota's vacuum line craziness and all these extra switches and sensors ran off vacuum, i can see a bunch of open ports that would probably prevent your motor from starting. i would plug the ones you can't figure out, dont connect them to anything just terminate them with some sort of plug. then see it if starts. from there if it still dont start try plugging one item into random vacuum ports and see if it starts. that diagram they gave you kinda helps out but kinda sucks. good luck man. hopefully someone else has more experience with your vacuum line problem.

superex87

If your hood is original there will be a diagram that shows all of the vac line routing.

Adamantoise

Unfortunately the hood isn't original. I replaced it years ago. If I could go back I would have saved it. Or the diagram at least.

bhawkin00

Do you live somewhere that does smog or emission testing? If not you can bypass almost all of those vaccum lines, I have a 87 that has only 4 vaccum lines. I removed all the emissions items

Adamantoise

No. None. The engine was one of those California ones, so I had to remove and swap a few things to make it match my old one. It matches perfectly now. But all I have all those diagrams and a few pictures I took that were supposed to show hookups but failed to show anything at all. Now I'm missing the harness and canister and only one vsv is hooked up.

Can you post pictures of your setup so that I can and mimic yours? Anything to get her to run again!

bhawkin00

Yes I can, it will be in the morning. The truck is at my work.
I deletedbthe EGR valve and the pair valve, the air tube on the exhaust manifold. I made block off plates for the egr valve and the air tubes.
I have my brake booster hose and the advance an retard hoses from my distributor. The metal vacuum line tubing I did away with all that stuff.
When I get to work I will post a picture for you.

Adamantoise

bhawkin00, any luck?

bhawkin00

Let me know if thos helps

Adamantoise

I tried hooking up everything the way yours was... still didn't work.

Turns out my hood is original. Thought I had replaced it years ago. Would have never believed it was mine but it has a little sticker with the VIN on it.

Unfortunately the vacuum diagram has long faded away. I did notice that the other tag has 22R RN FED on the bottom

7-86

bhawkin00

Does the truck try to start and run? If you hooked up all the vaccum lines the way mine are, it should run. Im wondering if you have something else going on. The engine you bought, did you hear it run before you pulled it out?

Adamantoise

Hi everyone. I am SO sorry about my absence, I have just had more crap go on in my life in the last few months that I ever have.

The diagrams/pictures helped. And I got it running. But only after replacing the starter, fuel pump and carburetor. And then I lost internet access.

Then it died. I replaced the spark plugs, igniter and the ignition coil. The distributor was full of ants. Cleaned it out. It started running again. About 6 or 7 times.

Then it died again. Replaced the distributor. Apparently I'm not getting any spark.

Traced the problem. Apparently I'm not getting power to the ignitor. There's a black and a black/red wire running from the ignitor. I'm told it could be the ECM (small computer found under the passenger side kick plate).

I KEEP replacing parts. Over and over. And nothing is helping. Tried studying the electrical diagrams but don't have a degree in electrical engineering and can't really understand them. Tried tracing the "B" and "B-R" wires. They seem to lead into every ignition component in the truck.

Can someone PLEASE help figure out why I'm not getting any spark? And what I need to replace to give the ignitor power? I just want my truck back. I've learned more about it in the last half a year than I ever knew, but I still don't know as much as half the people on this forum. That's why I'm sure one of you knows what I'm talking about, and what I need to do to fix it.

Please guys, Any help or suggestions would be awesome, and very much appreciated!!!!

Adamantoise

okay so here's the deal. I ran power from the battery to the igniter. Now the truck acts like it wants to start. The guy that was here working on the distributor last time told me it was 180 degrees out of time. Now I can't get it back in time. I did a search on the forums. I was told to put the pulley on zero with the hoses disconnected or 12 with the hoses connected and make sure the rotor was right under the first spark plug wire. It is. It still won't start. I tried rotating the distributor slowly while we tried starting it. It acts like it wants to start but it keeps backfiring. I read on here that that could mean that it is 360 degrees off. I rotated the pulley all the way around and put it back on 0. It was still lined up with the first spark plug wire. But it still never started. I can fix the power to the igniter problem once I get it started. But I can't figure out the correct timing to get it started. I've tried doing it by ear and a timing gun won't work seeing the engine doesn't run. What can I possibly do to get my truck back in time so that I can at least get it started? Thank you all for all of your help.

scope103

"180° out of time" means that the plug is firing when the crank is on the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke. The crank turns twice for each turn of the distributor. So that also means the crank is 360° away from where it should be. Got it? - they're the same.

So you first want to find the crank position when cylinder #1 is at the top of the compression stroke. You can remove the valve cover and look at the valves (both will be closed). Or, you can pull all the plugs, then turn the crank to about 90° before TDC. Put a small piece of paper towel over the #1 plug hole, then quickly turn the crank (with a wrench) to TDC. If you're on the compression stroke the piece of paper should pop off with a puff of air. Then set your distributor to point just past #1 (why just past? Because it should reach #1 about 10° before TDC.)

(Don't go past TDC with the wrench; if you happen to be on the exhaust stroke, when you go past you'll be on the intake stroke and you may suck the paper into the cylinder.)

Your timing gun should work even just while cranking, if only to get the timing somewhere in the right ball park. Of course, if you're 180° out the mark will be on the "back" side of the harmonic balancer when the light flashes; you won't see it.

AdmiralYoda

Are you getting enough fuel? After sitting for a while I had gunk in my lines/tank and had a clogged fuel filter. Would get enough fuel to try and start but just wouldn't run. It backfired a whole lot too.

Same symptoms as your last post. Replaced the fuel filter and VROOOOM!!!