bammabam

I decided that it is necessary to fix a barage of issues with my engine... so I bought another one and am going to rebuild it. Started tearing it apart today, it will be in the machine shop tomorrow and then Ill see it in a week to put it all back together. I figure I'm in for a wonderful experience, because I've never done anything remotely close to this. I know there are many posts about rebuilding (I've read most of them, be done soon), I figured I would ask everyone out there if they have anything more I may need to know, or some maybe random chunk of info that may be useful while doing some of the wrenching (like I said, havent done this before)?

I am just going to replace mostly OEM (I just want to quit chugging around with a "retarded" engine and maybe save some money on gas). I figure a master kit from Engnbldr.com is a good start. I know Ill need (should use) new headbolts, I already have the timing belt, tensioner and roller. Not too sure what else I will need (miscleanous hoses...), Maybe someone out there knows of some part I should be replacing.

Ill keep posting and will get some pics as I go, I hope this dosent take much more then 2 weeks.

NYChopshop

do you have the tools to do this correctly? You may save time and money in the long run having someone trustworthy and knowledgeable with the right set of tools do it for you if something goes really wrong. Advise I have is to replace the sensors etc, the temp sensor is located in/under the intake manifold and is a $30 dime-sized solution to a potentially serious problem. Get a stack of gaskets and water hoses, but you can try to save or salvage most of the breather hoses. Great time to replace parts that fail like alternator and starter, btw. Also buying carefully calibrated preassembled parts like a remanufactured head as a whole might be a good idea. One of the main weak point of the 3.slow (besides crappy power) is the head gasket, so heads blow every couple hundred thousand miles. New belts and anything rubber that carries fluid is a no-brainer. Otherwise, I wouldnt replace what 'aint broke. It just gives a higher probability of finding a bad new part. I'd swap in a chevy 4.3lv6 or a Lexus 4.0l V8 for the power problem, or buy a longblock completed if since I dont have the tools to rebuild an engine myself ATM. Good luck with the project, and I hope you have a ton of really smart gearheads around you for help - if you've never done anything like this its going to be a learning experience either way.

scuba

I suppose, And what some ( but not all) people would do in your case is to leave the intake and all vaccum hoses sorta connected pull that and other misc things from the engine before you pull it and then get r done.

Take A LOT of pictures of your vaccum routing before you disco. anything.
Keep all the assoctiated screws with said associated parts in nice ziplock bags.
If you want to replace vaccum hoses you can get bulk of it at napa or whatever they have in canadia...

Idk what the rebuild kit comes with but you should probably think about a rear main seal and oil pan gasket if the kit doesnt come with those two.

EDIT: Sensors x2, also oil pump while your in there couldnt hurt

Again, Take lots of pics, Dont be afraid to ask for help.

And Welcome to YotaTech

abecedarian

and some auto parts store sell these little things that have numbers on them and they are sticky so you can identify which what went where
and if you're gonna be in there, and don't wanna go back soon, best to replace seals, oil pump, timing belt, etc.
the machine shop should be able to set you up with a list of bearings, etc. you'll need.
oh, and if you can get them to do it, have them set the valve lash properly.

and if you find yourself getting frustrated, slowly step away from the vehicle and take a break, maybe stop for the day even.

bammabam

Pictures, pictures, pictures (and the bonus of having a running engine in my truck)... I know to make sure everything is documented. After the block is machiened, the shop is goint to assemble the pistons and crank for me (no tools and id rather someone else do it. The kit I am purchasing comes with the oil pump. as for the heads, they will be checked before anything is done (rebuilt or new ones). I have read alot of stories about things burning with various types of heads. I dont see the need to change anything to get more power (although it would be fun).

abecedarian

yeah....



lol

Jay351

Go with o/s valves!! They are like $100 extra in the end if you are doing a valve grind...

baldwithglasses

Can you tell more about swapping the Lexus 4.0 liter motor? What about the bell housing- can you use the old bell housing on the 4wd tranny, or where can one find the appropriate mounts/ bellhousing? What's the difference in mileage?

benwahballs

definitely x3 on the oil pump. The last thing you want to do is put a freshly rebuilt motor into your rig only to find its got weak oil pressure, which is a pretty common symptom in high milage 3.0s

did anyone say TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES??? 3x what you think is necessary, trust me youll be glad you did later.

and I'd get your fuel injectors flow tested and serviced. Try and get them out right away and sent off so by the time you're ready to put them back in they should be done. Lethbridge should have somewhere that could do it, might have to send to calgary. I had to send mine to vancouver but I live in small town, lot smaller than lethbridge.


all i can think of for now off top of my head. good luck and have fun! post your progress (with pix!!!)

btw did i mention take lots of pictures?

bammabam

Well it has been awhile, and I have had more than I ever expected when swapping my engine. While about two weeks into the rebuild, my running engine decided it was going to get the worst fuel economy yet (about 2km/L). Now Im getting really worried tyhat my excess fuel consumption is going to hurt the limited funds I do have available.

Apparently some jacka$$ decides that he dosent need to stop at a red light, hitting me on the rear driverside tire....Insurance company dealt with (they figure $4000 damage, there gonna fix it all).

Weeks later, i finally get my "new" engine. After many hours of slow movement and many a select 4 letter words, it is in. I am amazed that i managed to do this on my own (i am no longer an engine virgin). A few hours later I have everything reconnected, and figure sence i only have for some seals to set, i can get the vehicle ready to go. The final step was to reconnect my battery, which in turn pressurized the fuel system (i didnt realize the key was in the on run position). I ran around the vehicle to turn the key off, looked in at the key, turned it off, looked up out the window and there was fire. Simple solution...put it out....there are no fire extinguishers around (im in my friends non-heated garage)....So i call the fire department and wait. As im watching my truck burn....the smoke changes into a thick black color, and it is then I know that all the plastic and rubber are on fire.

The end result looks like it began as a fuel fire (my lack of experience), which after burning some of the wires turned into an electrical fire. I now have to replace both wiring harnesses, all the hoses, belts, fan and shroud.

I spent the day pulling wires from the wreckers, and now know that I am in for quite a job trying to get my truck running again. hopefully I can have this finished soon, life without a toyota just isnt life at all.

NYChopshop

holy crap man. Guess who's never working on an engine without a fire extinguisher again!? good luck bringing'er back from the dead!

zlathim

Wow, what a bummer! All that work just to watch it burn up. I feel for you man, that sucks.

Where was the fuel coming from?

ironroad9c1

maybe it was pissed off cause you painted it yellow.

mt_goat

NM, just realized this was an old thread.

ironroad9c1

lol
I'm dredging

zlathim

It isn't that old. The OP responded a couple weeks ago with new information.

mt_goat

Yeah, but I was going to post EB's special head bolt torquing proceedure then I realized he already had the engine back in the truck so I just said never mind (NM)

zlathim

Gotcha!

bammabam

HELP!!!!
Well... as things sit right now, I finally have the fire damage fixed, and figured out (after the jacka$$ at the wrecking yard screwed me over) that the engine wire harness for my 4runner is not the same as the one for the sr5 truck of the same year....(wow...this experience just wont end). Now I need to find another wire harness that goes between the engine and whatever the box is behind the passenger kick pannel (ECU im guessing). I havent been able to find anything locally and figure there is no harm in asking anyone who reads this thread if they know of someone who may have one they dont need and might be for sale, pehraps they might contact me (please!!!)
I would love to get my 4Runner back on the road....

NYChopshop

If you're sick of 'plug in engine go boom' and are willing to pay for it, I say look at the aussie company Venom (not the US nitrous guys) who does the wiring harnesses custom. here's their site: http://www.venomcobras.com/WLooms.htmlOtherwise, its gonna be more of the same for you I'm afraid. Good luck, too bad I can't be of more help!