twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

so i decide since i had some time id finally do this mod before i start my next mod so here are some pictures.
before starting:

battery removed:

AFM removed:

bracketts cut off my AFM bottom:


cut the original mounting rubbers in half:

Drilled 3 holes in my bottom half of the AFM box and through the inner fender:

not shown.
bolted the bottom half down. in this way
bolt-washer-bottom AFM-rubber bushing-inner fender-washer-lock washer-nut.

then i took the rubber boots off the original piping and cut the one the connected to the intake.

then heated it up to fit over a 2 1/2(i think might have been 2 3/8 will check) exhaust tubing tht was laying around.
along with a new hose clamp.

how the AFM now looks:



still have lots to do.
my list:
-make a hole in radiator support for intake tubing to air filter
-extend AFM wires
-extend postive battery cable
-remount ground cable to a new spot
-make new battery box
-make a new battery hold down.

more pictures tommarow.

The MAN

looks good... good thing these old toyotas uses a VAF and not an actual MAF because the turbulence near the throttle body can screw up the readings

Sleepr71

Not knocking your work...but...Would it not be less work(same gain) to just insulate the air box+ inlet tube all the way to the throttle body?? I've never understood doing all this work/extending wires & putting the weight of the battery on the driver side(seems like having it on pass side = better weight distribution to me). Sleepr71.

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

i see what you mean an i have seen others do tht. but honestly the reason i did it this way is because it cost me $0. i had the wires to extend the AFM and longer battery wires. sotht is the only reason i did it this way.

now the one thing tht i see people do all the time is they do the swap and just put a filter without a box in the engine compartment which i think is stupid. im keeping my stock box and the stock tube from the radiator support to the AFM box.

i got rid of my A/C so where some of the a/c hoses use to run through the radiator support. i am just going to make the hole bigger and install the factory inlet hose to the box.


no i did finish every thiing except makeing the whole for the inlet hose. right now it is attached to the box and hanging down.

and i got to say even though a changed my air filter i have a lot better throttle response. and it is a lil louder.

started taking pictures until my screen on my phone broke. once i get a new phone i will take some pictures.

bcg1

Looks great. Did the same on my old truck but I mounted the battery on the iinside of the frame under the bed.

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

finished everythin up today.

Here is a picture of my AFM slpiced and extended:

i know the best way is to solder it but i didnt have the solder at the time, so when this starts giving me problems i will go back and do it right.

here is the other end:


the wires run in front of the engine and radiator:


a picture of my battery and the new positive cable:


here shows a better look at the ground cable and where it is mounted:

tht is the original ground cable i had before. i just bolted it to a differant spot on the inner fender and bolted it to the driver side motor mount bracket.

here you can see how the wires run and look:


i stated earlier tht a/c lines ran through the radiator support, the odd shaped oval is the hole they ran through:


i then cut tht hole bigger with a plasma cutter and a file to clean it up. then i cut the original intake hose to the air filter box:


and to make the washer bottle fit in the same spot i had to heat it up and reshape it:


here is how it looks:


the only thing i didnt take a picture of is where i drilled a hole in the inner fender for my j-bolt for the battery, but im still using my original battery hold down.

also shown in the last picture, the peice of piping i cut off the inlet hose is siliconed to the inside of the pipe, so tht way i still have the inlet opening at the bottom of the hose and when driving nothing will go straight in the piping.


so all in all, every thing i used:
14 butt connectors for the AFM
around 20ft of wire to extend all 7 AFM wires
3ft of wire to extend the fuse block B+ wire
1 butt connector for tht wire
3ft of 4ga wire to extend B+ wire to the starter
1 B+ battery connector(decided to replace mine to get rid of an old non-used wire crimped to it)
6in 2.5" diameter exhaust pipe
and some electrical tape and zipties.


all i already had so this swap cost me a total of:
$00.00
and
10hrs due to (fabing everything)

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

If you look at the last picture you can see the stock hose from the AFM to TB
just missing the rubber boots.

i was going to cut tht to make it fit but found exhaust tubing instead.

so if anyone is close and wants it. i have no real use for it anymore.

The MAN

you really shouldn't be using those crappy butt connectors... use them for something silly like the radio, but NEVER for essential components like the VAF! any of those wires come loose, you're dead in the water!

you need to solder all of those wires together and use heat shrink tubing to cover up/protect the splices... you also need to better protect those wires than just bundling them together with tape... use a wire loom then tape the loom tightly together... they are excellent protectors and will prevent sharp objects from rubbing through into the wires and causing shorts

wiring is one thing that should never be skimped, just like the rest of those little things mechanical that must be cared about in any car... a great running motor and drivetrain means nothing when the wires rub through, short out and burns your rig to the ground!

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

i know and in the prevous post i mentioned i will be redoing it, i dont have solder at the moment.


but thanks for the in-put. as soon as a get solder im re doing it but. i need the vehicle to move. as far as being stranded. im not worried, due to the fact tht i cant drive it until i get a tail light lense. so it sits where it has for just over 6 months.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

i guess i dont get it......if you use the same AFM and filter box what have you really gained? I can see doing this and installing the Supra AFM (larger bore so more air flow) with the larger pipe but I just dont get what you were after here.
Help me understand...........

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

no problem. one day i would like to do the supra AFM and better tubing, but right now i just came out of a trade school and have no job or money. so i wanted to still this swap but with out spending money. when i get the money i can buy the better parts and it will make it all worth while.

but for now. it was keeping me busy and seeing if i kept everything the same and changed just the routing of the tube if it would change anything at all.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the kind reply. I fully understand your situation and want to do "something" to stay busy. Makes good sense to have it ready when you find your Supra AFM (BTW-I found mine on eBay for $30 shipped from Hawaii!!!).
Your pics and detail while doing the swap were very nice, keep up the good work!

RAD4Runner

Hi Twistedyota,
I'm considering adding a snorkel to raise intake far from Anza-Borrego Desert dust. I like this intake swap using stock parts, shortening the air path, and minimizing area for potential leaks between AFM and TB.

How's the truck working for you?
Have you considered or know IF possible to turn airbox 180 degrees° so box intake faces the fender? Then, cold air intake can be taken from 1) Fender well, OR (2) a snorkel ran through there?
4Crawler at one point got his cold air from fender area.

Twistedyota & Guys from Califonia,
Did you ever get a hard time with California smog inspection when people see mods to intake?

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

The truck ran great, no real difference, you could hear the change though. I traded the truck a year and a half ago so I'm not sure, but I read somewhere someone on here unbolted the box from the AFM and made a plate that bolts to the AFM and has a piece of 3"pipe welded to it to run a cone filter, you could remove the cone filter idea and attach put your snorkel to it. That would be what I would do if I ever found a pass. snorkel. As for smog I never had a problem but it may be the place I go to is a lil on the slow side they don't even check license plate or vin.

RAD4Runner

I see. Thank you very much, Sir. Yes, a passenger side snorkel is what I'm thinking of.
Regards,
Ray

paynemw

Awesome write up, thanks. Informative.