Turning corner on Head Gasket replacement
#1
Turning corner on Head Gasket replacement
Finally got head back on today. There are alot of issues I am seeing with the sensors screwed into the coolant block at the rear of the engine. The knock sensor also seems to need a new wire so I will see what kind of costs I am looking at. As far as the gasket goes I purchased a gasket kit from Parts Dinosaur for 99 clams as well as head bolts for 40. The gaskets have the slipper plate facing the block and I didn't replace the bolts under the camshaft and was unable to tighten the second 90 degree increment but we will see how things pan out.
Any advice on the priority I should place on the sensors located on the rear coolant block is much appreciated.
Any advice on the priority I should place on the sensors located on the rear coolant block is much appreciated.
#2
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Your Thermal Vacuum Valve (far left) is toast (both hose nipples gone), but I'm guessing your already knew that. The part is about $65. Do you know where the vacuum lines go now? (Evap cannister to one, throttle body to the other).
For the other four (CSI time switch, Temp gauge, ECT; I don't know what the fourth is, but I think MudHippy knows), I would just run the FSM test. If they pass, I'd keep them.
For the other four (CSI time switch, Temp gauge, ECT; I don't know what the fourth is, but I think MudHippy knows), I would just run the FSM test. If they pass, I'd keep them.
#7
I left the old head bolts on that were under the camshaft so I wouldn't have to take the camshaft off the head. Everything worked out good until I tightened the bolts. they will not tighten the second 90 degrees without slipping in the socket since there is a very slight offset where socket meets bolt. They do seem VERY tight though. The spec says 33 ft pounds and I put about 35 pounds on each bolt. Then I did a quarter turn with 3/4 drive breaker bar.
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#9
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Nm I know what you did now.
Question - how well did you blowout and clean up the head bolt holes? If there is any water at all in them, that's likely why you can't torque them down. I blew all of mine out repeatedly with 100+ psi and chased the threads probably 6 times each.
Then during the torqueing process, I made a pass at 20ftlbs, then another to 35. Backed all of them off then repeated the procedure. I was also using engine builders grade 10.9 bolts.
Question - how well did you blowout and clean up the head bolt holes? If there is any water at all in them, that's likely why you can't torque them down. I blew all of mine out repeatedly with 100+ psi and chased the threads probably 6 times each.
Then during the torqueing process, I made a pass at 20ftlbs, then another to 35. Backed all of them off then repeated the procedure. I was also using engine builders grade 10.9 bolts.
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I left the old head bolts on that were under the camshaft so I wouldn't have to take the camshaft off the head. Everything worked out good until I tightened the bolts. they will not tighten the second 90 degrees without slipping in the socket since there is a very slight offset where socket meets bolt. They do seem VERY tight though. The spec says 33 ft pounds and I put about 35 pounds on each bolt. Then I did a quarter turn with 3/4 drive breaker bar.
Incidentally, there is an FSM procedure for removing the cam gracefully. If you just start spinning out the bolts on one end, the valve springs are strong enough to bend the cam.
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