DCYota

I've attached a vid of the trouble codes I get when I jump the connectors in the engine bay. The troubles I've been having with the temperature the truck is running is what prompted me to check for any trouble codes. I'm reading it as a code 22 (Engine Coolant Sensor short/problem), and a code 41 (TPS-throttle position sensor..which I know if it's bad or out of adjustment can make the truck run hot as well...is that right?). Anyways, here's the vid. I had the codes repeat twice just for good measure. If someone who knows how to read these can either verify that it's what I've got, or can offer a different opinion...that would be great.

Thanks in advance!

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=DSCN1934.flv

Let me know if the video link works, or if anyone has problems with it. It's in QuickTime format.

-Dave.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

22 and 41 i what i counted

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

temp sensor and TPS, both can be checked with an ohm meter.

DCYota

OK, thanks a lot! I just wanted to make sure with a 2nd opinion. I've actually already ordered a replacement temp sensor and sender as part of the "ruling out why it's running hot" problem I've been having. So those will be taken care of. As for the TPS, I'll have to get on that then and make sure it's adjusted properly.

Thanks again.

DCYota

I installed the new temperature sensor this evening, still waiting on the temp. sender to show up on Saturday. Pulled the EFI fuse, burped the radiator again, and took it out for a drive. The truck does drive better...I'm guessing that's based on resetting the ECU and it relearning. Came back, checked the codes again and the code 22 is now gone. The code 41 remains (TPS), so I'll get that taken care of. The gauge is still reading warm (above half, almost to 3/4), so hopefully that's a sender issue which will be resolved with the new unit this weekend.

Just wanted to update this as I go in case someone else is doing research on similar problems with their 22RE.

Thanks again for the help so far!

DCYota

OK, so I replaced the temp sending unit on Saturday...I also drained the coolant, flushed out the radiator (no clogs), and backflushed the heater hoses. The truck still shows that it's running hot on the gauge. The system has been burped, so I'm at a total loss now. Just completely stumped on what in the hell it could be. The engine isn't running hot, and it runs perfect. Plenty of power through all gears, no smoke, nothing wrong.

The TPS is out of adjusment as I still have a code 41, and the valves are in dire need of adjustment...doing the valve job tomorrow. Could these two problems (TPS and Valves out of adjustment) be the only thing causing the engine to run on the warm side? I didn't think so at first, but these are the only two problems with my truck at the moment that haven't been fixed/adjusted. Anyone else have any input or experiences they'd like to share on those issues as they relate to engine temps?

Thanks.

thook

You said the truck was running perfect other than the gauge showing high temps. Usually, if the TPS is malfunctioning or valves are out of adjustment the motor won't run perfect. You'd have idle and/or acceleration issues. Not to mention timing. Also, the TPS and valve would have to be way out to cause overheating....and, again, you'd have performance issues. Even then, the TPS wouldn't be related to operating temps. Atleast, I've never seen that and can't imagine how it would.

You know, in the other thread you and I were discussing the location of the ECT sensor and temp gauge sensor? Well, I just got off the phone with the fellow at the dealership parts counter and he verified the sender on the manifold (the one with the blue connector) is for the temp guage. But, in the thread I'd mentioned the one near the thermostat. According to him, that's a temperature "switch" (as opposed to "sensor") for the ECU/EFI. As to it's funtion, he didn't have a clue. I'll have to get a tech on the phone tomorrow, but maybe that is related somehow to your problem.

Back to the valves, though. In order for them to create abnormally high temps, the valves would have to be too tight....particularly on the exhaust. Which would also give you higher than normal compression readings and...again...you'd having running issues....like loss of power.

What condition is your cat. convertor in?

Also, exactly how is the temp gauge acting that causes you to believe the engine is overly warm?

DCYota

Thanks for that info. I replaced both the switch and the sender (the one on the manifold with the blue connector, and the "switch" under the t-stat). So both of those are new, and the wiring on both checks out (with a DMM and a test light). On the cat, I'm not sure, and I can't verify if either the cat or the O2 sensors have ever been replaced...perhaps I need to check into those as well.

As for the temp gauge, when the truck idles the gauge sits right at about 1/4 way up...although just recently the gauge has started to sit at about halfway at idle. When I start to drive it gets up to halfway rather quick otherwise, then once I'm going about 45mph or more, the gauge will go up to 3/4, and sometimes to the top white line. Never in the red though. Like I said, there are no driveability issues, no sputtering, erratic idle, no loss of power (no more than usual as I'm running 33s on stock gearing ), etc...the valves are noisy as all are when in need of adjustment which is why I mentioned those. The only reason I mentioned the TPS is because of the code 41 that I get when I do the diagnostic with the engine light flashing after putting the jumper in the box.

But, like I said, I'm just stumped at this point..particularly if neither the valves or TPS could have anything to do with the erratic coolant temp readings.

DCYota

...and just to clarify for other things related to temp problems...this is what has been replaced recently on the truck:

Timing Chain and Guides
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Radiator, Cap, and T-stat (dual stage t-stat)
Upper and Lower Rad. Hoses are new
Fan Clutch
All Belts replaced and tightened to factory spec.
Coolant Temp Sender
Coolant Temp Sensor/Switch

So maybe it may be time to invest in a new catalytic converter and the O2 sensors just to rule those out as well? Or at least take it to an exhaust place to have them look it over? I believe the O2 sensors have never been replaced, and the truck has 187,000 miles on it.

thook

Okay....well, "noisy" valves won't create overheating, if they are in good shape. In other words, not damaged or anything...just need some adjusting.

(Nevermind the question I just deleted)

Just so we're on the same page....
There are apparently "three" coolant sensors....not including the cold start injector switch. You have the temp guage sending unit (on the manifold...blue connector) you replaced, the coolant temp sensor on the front of the block...next to the CSI switch...you also replaced, and there should be one next the t-stat on top of the motor with a single wire. Do you have one of those?

DCYota

I'm not sure if I have one of those or not...didn't notice before, but then again I wasn't looking for it either. I can check in the morning when I'm doing the valve adjust and report back about that. Is there a certain connector that identifies it? (color).

thook

On my '86 I believe it's white....make that a dingy, oil soaked white...hehe. It has a single wire. If you have one, it's unmistakable.

DCYota

OK, thanks. I'll be sure to check for it tomorrow morning!

DCYota

OK, well you peaked my interest enough to go out with a flashlight and look for it. I don't have that connector...so I know that's not it. I did notice something else while I was laying on top of the engine with my LED light. Right at the point where the t-stat housing attaches to the block (behind it by the 2nd injector), there's some coolant built up there...it's kind of gummy/jelly looking at this point I"m sure from the engine heat while running.

Does the t-stat housing attach to the block on the side there? If it does, it looks like I may have a leaking/bad t-stat housing gasket. What are your thoughts on that?

thook

It could be the gasket, or there's several small coolant lines in that area. Either could definitely cause temp issues. Air gets into the system and the thermostat won't operate correctly.

I'm curious about something....since I've seen this happen before. Did you have coolant spew at any point....to your knowledge...from that area?

DCYota

To my knowledge, no coolant spewing from that area. Although I've only owned the truck for the past few months. I know the previous owner though, and he never mentioned that problem.

Which lines should I be checking for leaks around that area? If you could give me a clue on that one I can check them tomorrow after the valve job and I get the engine running. I'd appreciate it.

I did replace the t-stat a couple of times. Got a new single stage t-stat first, then decided to upgrade to the dual stage a couple weeks later...so I've had that t-stat cover open a few times now since I've owned the truck. Maybe it's possible that it's dried up spilled coolant from opening that t-stat housing to get the new ones in and out. At least, I'm hoping for the best anyways

DCYota

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. Just went out and snapped one. My thumb is resting on top of the t-stat housing and pulling that small hose out of the way that attaches to the throttle body (Idle up hose I think)...just so you get an idea of the orientation of the pic:

thook

Yeah, that's possible it's old coolant, but since I can't see your motor.

You'll just have to look around up there for the coolant lines. They're all about 1/2" +/- in diameter and you can't miss them. Some go to a valve down on the front of the block. I don't recall offhand where they all go....my motor's not nearby. Even then, it's all taken apart....

Anyway, I've had a couple bust and spew everywhere. What I was driving is coolant possibly contaminating the TPS connector or wiring.

thook

Lol....you're fast...and my stupid PC mouse keeps sticking on me. Slooooowwwwsss thiiiiiinnggggss doooooowwwwwn..haha.

That looks like it could be newly dried coolant. It also definitely looks like from the housing. Hmmm....not sure what to tell you. Run the motor and see if it still leaks, I guess.

DCYota

Yeah, I'm quick!!!!

Well, tomorrow after I'm done adjusting the valves, I'll clean that area up and drive the truck around for 15-20 minutes. When I come back, if coolant is back in that spot again, then I'll know it's the housing gasket. If it is, I'm not looking forward to doing that repair. It looks as though you'd have to take off the fuel rail among many other things to do it. Well, if it is that, then at least I think I've discovered the temp problem.

Thanks again...I'll keep this updated as usual.