Trouble after rear brake rebuild, need help
03-03-2017, 06:06 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trouble after rear brake rebuild, need help
I went to replace my brake shoes, and discovered a leaking wheel cylinder on both sides. Here's what I did, followed by the problem:
The repair, in order:
-Cleaned and replaced shoes, drum brake hardware, and wheel cylinders (went with Advic wheel cylinders that appear to be the same as the ones on the truck with the exception of two little guide teeth on the end of the piston that hold the shoes)
-Reassembled the brakes, replaced rear brake hose, did a bleed of the two rear brakes to remove air and get fluid into the new hose and cylinders. I bled until no air was left. My old fluid wasn't too good, and I started to see clearer fluid as I bled, so I figured it was a decent flush.
-My book suggested using the emergency brake to set the shoes using the automatic adjuster. I had a bit of trouble with this, but from what I read you wouldn't hear the clicking sound anymore coming from the back once they were situated. I never heard the clicking so I thought maybe they were good to go.
-Put wheels back on and went for a test drive.
The problem:
-The pedal, which felt like it had great pressure after I bled became spongy when the truck turned on and I had little to no braking power. The pedal mostly sinks down with a bit of resistance at the end. I checked the reservoir, and the fluid level did not go down, so I don't think I have a leak. I am wondering if there's air in the system somewhere that I moved around during the bleeding or didn't get out.
-My emergency brake does not work. It simply pulls out way past what it normally should, and although I hear some sounds (not clicking like the adjustor, but creaking springs) coming from the back it doesn't engage at all.
Unfortunately I finished my work right when the sun went down, and it's been pouring rain all day, and will continue to do so for the next week so I won't be able to troubleshoot until tomorrow at least. The truck is in a terrible spot for jacking it up, and unfortunately on a hill, so I am not sure how I'll get it back to level ground. I'm nervous about driving downhill with the brakes as they are.
Can anyone give me insight into what might be going on here? I thought maybe the auto adjuster mechanism wasn't engaging, which would explain the e-brake not working, and the spongy pedal could be from the wheel cylinder pistons going out too far.. I'm stumped and could use some advice. Happy to answer any questions.
Thanks, y'all.
The repair, in order:
-Cleaned and replaced shoes, drum brake hardware, and wheel cylinders (went with Advic wheel cylinders that appear to be the same as the ones on the truck with the exception of two little guide teeth on the end of the piston that hold the shoes)
-Reassembled the brakes, replaced rear brake hose, did a bleed of the two rear brakes to remove air and get fluid into the new hose and cylinders. I bled until no air was left. My old fluid wasn't too good, and I started to see clearer fluid as I bled, so I figured it was a decent flush.
-My book suggested using the emergency brake to set the shoes using the automatic adjuster. I had a bit of trouble with this, but from what I read you wouldn't hear the clicking sound anymore coming from the back once they were situated. I never heard the clicking so I thought maybe they were good to go.
-Put wheels back on and went for a test drive.
The problem:
-The pedal, which felt like it had great pressure after I bled became spongy when the truck turned on and I had little to no braking power. The pedal mostly sinks down with a bit of resistance at the end. I checked the reservoir, and the fluid level did not go down, so I don't think I have a leak. I am wondering if there's air in the system somewhere that I moved around during the bleeding or didn't get out.
-My emergency brake does not work. It simply pulls out way past what it normally should, and although I hear some sounds (not clicking like the adjustor, but creaking springs) coming from the back it doesn't engage at all.
Unfortunately I finished my work right when the sun went down, and it's been pouring rain all day, and will continue to do so for the next week so I won't be able to troubleshoot until tomorrow at least. The truck is in a terrible spot for jacking it up, and unfortunately on a hill, so I am not sure how I'll get it back to level ground. I'm nervous about driving downhill with the brakes as they are.
Can anyone give me insight into what might be going on here? I thought maybe the auto adjuster mechanism wasn't engaging, which would explain the e-brake not working, and the spongy pedal could be from the wheel cylinder pistons going out too far.. I'm stumped and could use some advice. Happy to answer any questions.
Thanks, y'all.
03-04-2017, 12:41 AM
#2
First you need to adjust the brakes manually .
So you just have a slight drag learning to do this is a trail and error thing till you have done it a few times .
Maybe it was a over site but you don`t mention bleeding the front brakes if the fluid level dropped low enough .
With your brake fluid age it would not hurt to get it out in any case .
Then did you measure the brake drums they do wear and need replaced when they get over size.
On most rear brake jobs I also get new drums
It comes down to brake adjustment or air still in the system
Then air can be drawn in at any connection or poor quality control on your new wheel cylinders allowing air to be drawn in.
So you just have a slight drag learning to do this is a trail and error thing till you have done it a few times .
Maybe it was a over site but you don`t mention bleeding the front brakes if the fluid level dropped low enough .
With your brake fluid age it would not hurt to get it out in any case .
Then did you measure the brake drums they do wear and need replaced when they get over size.
On most rear brake jobs I also get new drums
It comes down to brake adjustment or air still in the system
Then air can be drawn in at any connection or poor quality control on your new wheel cylinders allowing air to be drawn in.
03-04-2017, 04:44 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the advice, wyoming9. I had a break in the rain today, so I was able to tackle this. As you suggested, it was an adjustment issue. My book mentioned using the e-brake to adjust, which I had tried but it turns out I was doing it wrong (first timer...). I finally got them properly adjusted, and everything seems to be working well.
I will be doing a full flush of the brake fluid when I replace the front brake pads and hoses.
For those who are doing rear brake adjustment, I've got some advice: The e-brake will automatically tension your shoes, but it takes a long time... The key is to pull it all the way out while keeping it twisted so it doesn't click and listen for the click coming from the ratchet in the drum brake. There will only be one or two clicks from the drum before the e-brake is all the way extended. Just push it back in and repeat. I had to pull it out about 40 times before I didn't hear any more clicks (which means your shoes are properly adjusted.)
I will be doing a full flush of the brake fluid when I replace the front brake pads and hoses.
For those who are doing rear brake adjustment, I've got some advice: The e-brake will automatically tension your shoes, but it takes a long time... The key is to pull it all the way out while keeping it twisted so it doesn't click and listen for the click coming from the ratchet in the drum brake. There will only be one or two clicks from the drum before the e-brake is all the way extended. Just push it back in and repeat. I had to pull it out about 40 times before I didn't hear any more clicks (which means your shoes are properly adjusted.)
