greyheadedguy

In my quest to find where these two missing bolts go, I crawled under my truck again physically then mentally and here is what I did when I took it a part. What did I miss? I did not go over the steps of putting it together because the two bolts I have left did not come from any of the steps I have listed so I must have missed something. Please walk through the steps I have listed and tell me what I have missed. As I mentioned my truck is a 1987 Toyota 4X4 w/ 22R engine and a G52 transmission. The engine is a 22R out of my 85 Toyota 2x. All sizes stated are bolt head size as I would have had to guess to tell you the thread size. I hope this helps somebody help me figure out what I am missing.

1.) Disconnected the battery post.
2.) Drain transmission and Transfer case (Tcase) oil.
3.) Removed started, 1-14mm nut, 1-14mm bolt (also holds clutch cylinder), 13mm nut - power, unplug selenoid.
4.) Remove rear drive shaft 4 - 14mm bolt w/nut and washer x2.
5.) Remove front drive flange dust cover, 4 - 12mm (?) hold top of cover on. 1 - 12mm bolt and 1 Tcase bolt (put back for further disassembly.)
6.) Clutch Cylinder, 2- 12mm bolts.
7.) Loosen transmission, 4 - 17mm, 4 - 14mm, 2 - 12mm bolts This includes the bolt that held the clutch cylinder.
8.) Sway Bar 2 x 2 12mm bolts (anchors), 2 - 14mm Bolt and nut w/ rubber grommets.
9.) Exhaust Clamp seems it was 12mm head
10.)Disconnect Speedo Cable
11.) Disconnect 4x4 sensor and back-up light sensor
12.) Remove shifter boots (carpet etc...
13.) Remove Transmission shifter, remove dust cover push down and twist. no bolys
14.) Remove TCase shifter, remove dust boot release snap ring lift.
15.) Lower transmission and TCase
16.) Remove Bell House stud
17.) Stand Transmission assembly on bell-house
18.)Take a part Transmission and TCase 8 bolts
19.) Remove Throwout bearing, fork and boot.
20.) Remove Bell-House
21.) Remove Input shaft bearing retainer
22.) Remove and replace input shaft oil seal.
23.) Install new seal and bolt on input shaft bearing retainer.
24.) Remove and Replace TCase input oil seal.
25.) Bolts TCase back on to transmission...

Thank you for your time,

grey

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Could anyone else been in your shop ??

Over the years well meaning people have have found hardware dropped years ago thought they were doing a good deed by putting it in the container where the last project`s hardware is.

Even better is when friends do it to you by adding non metric bolts to the mix or extra parts .

As long as they are not flywheel or Clutch plate bolts I would not be real excited .

If it bothers you take every thing back apart and start over

Pictures of the two strange bolts might help

All Toyota bolts of M8 M10 M12 are 1.25 M6 is x 1.00

greyheadedguy

Thanks for taking a look wyoming9, best I can tell no one has been here, but hard to say since I work out of an open carport with a concrete drive. Usually things disappear, not appear... Here is a link to the pictures I posted of the two bolts... As I remember they go between the transmission and the front motor mounts...

Okay, lets see, by the caliper, the head is 12mm, thread is I guess 8mm, and the length is about 10mm long, 16mm is the width of the collar or flange or whatever you call the flat part of the bolt that makes contact when tightened...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-swape-299554/

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Shagool22

Did you replace rear main crank seal?? Those look like oil pan bolts almost. And there's 2 bolts that go through oil pan into seal housing

greyheadedguy

Thanks Shagool22, no I just did a tranny swap. Two years ago I put this engine in this truck from one that was totaled. The engine had just been rebuilt and running 10 days before that lady ran the red light and killed my truck. So I never removed the clutch assembly or anything on the engine. That clutch has less then 10,000 miles on it and I replaced the crank seal back then.

This is driving me crazy! I am going back under the truck with a bright light and after I raise the front end to get a different perspective on things... I will post where they go when I find them... And I will find where they go!!! hahaha

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wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

All the bolts back in the top where the shifter was removed??

The two rear most bolts going in the console

Bolts that might have been lost by the last owner from before you bought the truck ending up with the rest??

Waiting to hear where they belong !!

greyheadedguy

wyoming9,did not unbolt the shifters, and the boots were held down by 6 screws. I just "popped" the shifters out of their sockets by pressing down and twisting (on tranny) and pinching the snap ring (on the transfer case). I just got out from under the truck again, did not get the jack out yet, but did use a light and still can't see where the bolts go. I did find a wire hanger just to the side of the tranny that was supposed to be holding the wires off the tranny...

I do have one disconcerting thought, 2 weeks before I started the tranny swap I did replace the timing belt on my 94 Corolla... but I would have seen those bolts on the concrete floor of the carport, wouldn't I? CRAP!!! Now I have to start looking at that car...

No I'm sure I would have seen them...

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Shagool22

looked again, definitely not oil pan bolts... they look extremely familiar for some reason.. I did I tranny swap on my 87 4Runner awhile back (auto to manual)

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I saw that and was going to suggest they were wire or cooling line brackets, then noticed it's manual transmission this time..

Sorry no real help from me.. The flanges look not quite round, is that just t the photo or actually?

greyheadedguy

Seems to me that they come from the driver's side between the engine and the tranny. In fact what comes to mind has the around the sway bar some how, but for the life of me I can't place them,

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greyheadedguy

The flanges are round, it was pitch black when I took the pictures so I imagine there is some distortion from the flash and the angle an everything...

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Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Did you find the right holes yet? I'm vaguely recalling a couple small ones that hole the dust cover to the engine block.

greyheadedguy

I wish I could say I have found the holes, but as of this typing I have not. I have just replaced my alternator twice... Yes, all I could think about was 'that my alternator blew because wires or something rubbed and shorted out and blew my alternator...' I could not find anything so I replaced the alternator. I had my truck running for less then 48 hours and blew the new alternator, but this time it blew my 80 amp fusible link.

So I went a troubleshooting and thought I had it and touched the cable to the neg post and burnt my hand on the spark and could not get it off before it blew my new fusible link... errr!!!! So did more troubleshooting and realized that to blow an 80 Amp fuse it had to be something on a 6 gauge wire, it left me to the starter or the alternator. Using volt/ohm meter I had continuity between the fusible link and the body. NOT GOOD! Disconnected the alternator cable and continuity went away... I reconnected it loosely to see what would happen and it read 9 ohms... Pulled alternator* and had O'Reilly test is and it scrambled the brain on their computerized alternator tester. They had to reset the tester to test the new alternator they gave me. Truck has been running for 24 hours now so I have my fingers crossed that it is still good...




*I hate pulling my alternator on this truck. Old Blue did not have power steering so I could remove it from the top a 10 minute job...

I have not given up and I am still looking. I will post it when I find it,
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