pyrojoe22

I have the gear driven 4cyl transfer case from 86-95 pickups that bolts to a manual tranny (w-56). I'm installing my new w-56 marlin tranny on Saturday night and need to decide which transfer case I have to install. I have the one off my G54, but my G54 blew up when the idler bearing went out and I have no idea how to tell if that t-case is OKAY. The other one I have is from a w-56 that had roughly 150-200k miles when I bought it from the junk yard. That tranny is pretty worn out so I don't know which t-case I should use. The w-56 t-case had funky smelling gear lube in it when I got it, so I ran clean fluid through the filler and let it drain out until only clean fluid came out. Yesterday, I drained it, and the first half of the fluid that came out looked really dirty. I don't know if it just contained surface rust from the gears since it probably sat and allowed condensation to create surface rust when it was in the junk yard? There wasn't a huge glob of metallic grit on the drain plug.

If it goes bad, I can just throw my other t-case in without removing the tranny, right? Just remove the cross member, drop the tranny onto a jack, put the t-case in 4hi, and seperate them?

Now here's my main question. There are 4 bolts that connect the cross member to the transfer case. One of the threads in my t-case is stripped out. I'm assuming someone else has ran into this issue. What is the best fix? I don't know if I should just re-tap the hole to the same thread pitch? Drill it out one size bigger and tap it? Or just use some blue or red loctite on it. I'm afraid that with the OM617 diesel that I swapped in, the torque is going to rip those bolts out of the t-case.

BigMike

When we build Heavy Duty components, such as a HD transmission, we drill out commonly stripped threads and upgrade them with Time-Serts. Time-Serts are better than HeliCoils because they are a one-piece steal insert instead of a screw thread coil.

We are so quick at installing Time-Serts that often times we'll just upgrade dual case units to these stronger threads to prevent costly installation mistakes (such as stripping those threads you speak of).

Therefore, I'd suggest trying the Time-Sert route. We have been using them for many years and are very pleased with them.

Here is a great comparison picture I just found on GImages: Weaker HeliCoil at top, more durable Time-Sert at bottom:


Here is Time-Sert's website, http://www.timesert.com, and points worth mentioning from their site:

• Solid bushing insert. This guarantees easy installation and allows for full load use of tapped hole, ensuring protection against stress and vibration.
• Positive Placement. Having a flange on the top of the insert will insure that the insert will have positive placement and cannot wind down into the newly repaired hole.
• Self locking. On installation the bottom internal threads of the insert are cold rolled to expand the mating external threads into the base material locking the insert in place. Locking mechanism is at the bottom of insert.
• Time-Sert thread repair system is the ultimate way to repair threads in stripped or damaged holes.

And if you are wondering, no I am not endorsed by Time-Sert We simply like them a lot. We are a dealer and could easily start selling the kits. Hmmmmmmm *thinks deeply to himself*

BigMike