paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

I've read so many threads on the tps Im just getting more confused / frustrated. Let me tell you what I've done.
1. Completely cleaned throttle body
2. Installed new TPS
3. Replaced AFM
4. Replaced fuel pressure regulator
5. Had injectors (cold also) cleaned by RC
6. New OEM fuel pump

I have no vacume leaks or fuel leaks
I'm still having to crank her 6 or 7 times while pumping the gas peddle.
Now that she is started she wants to stall right away. So I'm sitting there until it's warmed up before I can let it idle on it's own. Now when I unplug the TSP the idle comes up a little and it idles very sweet. When I plug the TPS back in the idle drops an it wants to stall. What's up with this? Do I need to adjust the TPS more? Clock or counter clock turns, if that's the case? Just spending to much time on this issue.

az4x4runner

You at least need an ohm meter and a feeler gauge to adjust the TPS. Which engine is it? I can get you a page with specs out of the FSM for that engine.

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

It's a 22re with an auto tranny. I have both an ohm meter and a feeler gauge. Did all the TPS adjustments when I installed it to the throttle body. I may need to fine tune it? Can I do that with it all connected to the engine? Is it possible to do an adjustment with the engine running?

az4x4runner

Wouldn't do it with the engine running. You will be taking readings from terminals of the TPS at different throttle openings, upto wide open. You can leave it on the engine, you will need to unplug it to test the pins on the TPS.

Mine is a 3vze, not sure exactly how easy it is to access on the 22re. When I did mine I used small pieces of rubber tubing over the tips of the ohm meter leads. This allowed me to slide it over a pin on the TPS and not have to hold it and also not worry about it touching the wrong pin.

I will get you a page out of the FSM in a moment.

az4x4runner

Here it is... hope it helps you out some. How old is your fuel filter?

Though since you said it smooths out once you unplug the TPS, sound like this may be all you need.



Edit: that image was a little fuzzy, uploaded a sharper one, should be visible soon.

myyota

Pumping the gas peddle on a fuel injected engine does nothing to help it start.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Try the fuel pump test jumper and see if it starts faster:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

If so, figure out what is keeping the CO relay from running the fuel pump.

And check the TPS on the engine, it may have tested OK on the bench, but with the throttle linkage hooked up it may have moved a little:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

And check for any tiny vacuum leaks, especially in the rubber bellows sections of the intake tubing. Small cracks there will cause the engine to run rough or stall when you hit the gas.

GO_BLUE!

x2 on the fuel filter and/or fuel pump. Make sure you're getting fuel, a spark (plugs, plug wires, distributor, coil) and air (no vacuum leaks).

TNRabbit

Hard starting is usually the cold timing switch or cold start fuel injector.

ToyotaViejo

My money's on the fuel pump, the electronics that control it or the fuel filter.

After that, I might think spark.

Jumper the fuel pump at the DIAG box. That will power the fuel pump no matter what; bypassing the other safeties at the AFM and the COR. If the jumper doesn't turn on the pump, you either have a completely dead pump, or a break in the wires powering the pump.

If the jumper fixes the problem, but it returns when you pull out the jumper, you have a problem with the shut-off switch inside the AFM or a dead COR. Likely, anyway.

Note that while the COR looks like a regular ol' relay, it isn't. It's much more complicated and expensive.

Your TPS has to be 11 kinds of way the heck off for it to prevent the vehicle from running. It's a secondary sensor that if the ECU loses, will cause it to drive poorly; but it shouldn't do anything with fuel delivery at idle to the point of the truck not running.

These trucks should run with the TPS unplugged.

A weak/dead pump and/or clogged filter will do exactly what you're describing.

There is also a remote possibility that your EVAP system is plugged and you have vacuum-locked your fuel tank. I have seen this firsthand, but it is exceedingly rare.

To confirm what someone else said, pumping the pedal on an EFI vehicle of any make does absolutely nothing.

Now, if you're sure (confirmed with a pressure test) that your fuel delivery is OK, I'd bet the farm on bad or no spark to one or more cylinders.

Check the wires to make sure the right wire goes to the right hole, and that the cap and rotor are in good shape.

Then pull wires and crank it over (being careful not to get zapped) while holding the open end of the wire near a metal surface. It should arc. Again, be careful not to zap yourself.

No spark at any/all of the holes could mean a dead cap/rotor and/or a dead coil/igniter.

If you've got spark at all six holes, pull the plugs and see if they're not totally dead.

If the problem isn't gas or spark, you have one sick puppy and it will take a bit more finagling than than we're talking here.

But I'd bet it's one of these. Starting with fuel.

BlueJerseyDevil

I have the same issue with my 3vze and yes the only way it will start is to"pump" the pedal. Technically ya it should do nothing for it but if I hold it open it won't start. Pumping it does work I don't know why it just does.

My issue is the same as the OP. New block from Toyota,rebuilt heads, new charcoal canister, fuel filter, ecu, injectors serviced, new sensors on the heat riser bhind the intake(that alone was $675 for dealer parts) used distributer, new cap rotor, plugs&wires,
My 4tps second throttle body,new fuel dampener and reg, cleanend and checked the egr
vsv switches, cleaned the reed valve, sea foam it. Checked for vac leaks none found.
My cat on Thursday was red and that's brand-new.
I'm running out of money and patience. And if I miss an other day of work I'll be SOOL.
I've had 5 other v6 trucks and have all ways been able to fix any issue with it.
All signs to me say the valve job was done wrong.
Cause now I don't have any ping but lost #4 a few days ago.
If I find out what it is, I'll let ya know,but right now I'm right with ya.
Most of the post I read here and other places it's always some dumb fix. Where they had the wires wrong or a condom package stuck on the intake. LOL
The dealer wont even look at it they say it's too old or tell me it's going to be over $8000 to fix and that I have no promise it will be fixed.

As a matter of fact I sit in my drivers seat posting this I just checked my codes and I'm getting a 51 now!!
Please help us out we love our trucks helppppppppp

thook

You can adjust it with the engine running....sure. It's easy. Problem is, you need to be able to do it with the engine running.....which you seem to be having problems with.

Is this problem you're having only with starting and idling? Do you have any problems with it while driving? I mean, can you drive it and will it run fine until you, of course, come back to an idle?

thook

So, it will idle once it's warm? How well? Will it also start better once it's warm?

Oh, and did you mess with any of the throttle body adjustments.....ie, the throttle stop screw?

fissure333

$.02 says EGR stuck open. do the universal check to see. makes big vacuum leak if so.

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

The EGR and air tank have been completely removed . Capped off with LCE plates.

fissure333

i had the same problem with my brother in laws truck. we switched out the AFM with the supra one and used that garbage flex tube between the AFM and throttle body. he called me up months later complaining of the same symptoms. i dug int othe engine bay, went through everything and discovered that the flex tube had broken near the throttle body creating a major vacuum leak. once i repaired that, problem solved. SO, take a look at all of your connections between the AFM and throttle body to make sure they are secure and leak free. also make sure that your AFM plug is plugged in all the way, i know it sounds like a no brainer, but sometimes it's the small stuff that gets ya. good luck.

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I had some old age cracks in the flex tube. Replaced it. Still having starting issues. I tested TPS with the ohmmeter 3 of the 4 readings were where they should be. I'm tring to find my feeler gauge to do the last test.

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

Update, today I installed a oil pressure gauge. Haven't touched the truck in 6 days. Went to start it and felt like I barley turned the key and it started right up. Like the good old days. Got around to the front of the engine and my TPS was unplugged. I plugged it back in and it wanted to stall right away. Should I adjust it? Really, why do I need this? It runs better with it off! What is the purpose of the TPS? Or is it on the truck just to aggravate me?? I have done all the test everyone has asked, it's got to be the TPS. BTW the TPS is brand new from the dealer.

92dlxman

if you have emmissions laws, you gotta fix it. verify proper dashpot/ idle stop settings and re/adjust

ToyotaViejo

Even if you didn't have emissions requirements, engineers generally don't install components under the hood that aren't necessary. Even if emissions systems themselves are ill-conceived and poorly executed, the vehicle is designed to run best with those same ill-conceived and poorly executed systems in place and in good working order.

If the truck runs better without the TPS plugged in, you have a "bad" TPS. That said, they generally don't go bad, but aren't properly set.

When I did mine, I ripped the whole throttle body off the truck and installed/calibrated the TPS on the bench. When everything was in spec, I tightened it down and reinstalled the TB.

I completely agree with checking the idle stop screw setting and re-setting the TPS. Check the butterfly for gumming while you're at it; I've seen them so sticky that the butterfly seals completely when it's parked for a while - resulting in a no-start.