TPS Problems... Maybe?
#1
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TPS Problems... Maybe?
Alright guys, first of all this my first post on Yotatech so I hope I don't newb it up too much right here, but I just bought my first Toyota from one of my dad's friends. When I bought it, it had a major exhaust leak so I got that fixed and put a flowmaster 40 on it. After I got the exhaust leak fixed, I noticed the 4runner had a high idle, about 1800 rpms both hot and cold and it seems like the truck is almost missing or needing a tune up all the way up to 2000-2200 rpms but I decided to look it up and see if something else could be wrong with it and I noticed most people say to check the CEL code even if the light is not on. After I checked it, I got a 51 code so that leads me to the TPS. I said all of that to say this. Could all of the problems be related to the TPS?
P.S. Stats are in the signature
Thanks ahead of time guys
P.S. Stats are in the signature
Thanks ahead of time guys
#6
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Thanks guys! As of right now nothing to drastic as its my DD and I'm in college so not a lot of money to go around. lol However, I do plan to do a zuk mod fairly soon to alleviate the butt sag and do some minor performance mods like intake and AFM swap to help gas mileage.
#7
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Sounds to me like the auxilliary air valve (bottom of throttle body) is stuck. Try unplugging the TPS to see if it gets any better...quick and easy test. If not, I'd clean the AAV.
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#8
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Just tried unplugging the TPS and I didn't notice it being any better. I'm not real familiar with the AAV. Do you know a thread that might show me how to get to it and clean it? And would that explain the code 51?
#9
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The code 51 means the ECU is not receiving the IDL (idle) signal from the TPS but probably has nothing to do with the high idle. To resolve the code 51, adjust your TPS to spec and test it...replace (with OEM) if necessary.
For the AAV, just remove it from the throttle body and clean it with carb cleaner. You can do a few tests before removing it if you want. Check out the factory service manual...link in my signature.
For the AAV, just remove it from the throttle body and clean it with carb cleaner. You can do a few tests before removing it if you want. Check out the factory service manual...link in my signature.
#11
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Alright so I did the tune up today before I started fooling with the other issue and decided I would check the codes again. This time it threw the 51 code and a 41 code.
#12
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jrock, I had codes 25, 26, and 32 last night I replaced a couple of hoses which probably did nothing and poured some seafoam in my gas tank and and I could tell a difference in the way the truck drove pretty quick. I figured I would test it again and see what codes i got so I disconnected my battery and when I hooked everything back up and ran the test again the codes 25, 26, and 32 were gone but now i have the 51. So have you tried resetting it and running the test just to see if that is really what the problem is? just a thought i don't know much about these things
#13
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I hear ya on the not knowing much about these things. That was one of the reasons I bought it was so I could learn, but I have not reset the code yet. I'll let it reset over night and check it in the morning and see if that helps. Thanks for the input!
#15
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if u need to test the AAV pull the intake hose off the throttle body and plug the big hole on the bottom(thats the aav intake) with duct tape. Reconnect the hose and start the engine (u may need to unscrew the idle screw on the top left of TB to get idle). If that fixes the high surging idle then the AAV needs cleaned or replaced. Im goin thru that right now
Welcome to YOtatech and good luck!!
Welcome to YOtatech and good luck!!
#16
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Thats about average mpg for 4runners of that age. Dont be surprised if u only get 18 mpgs hwy especially with any bigger tires than stock. There arent many that get more than 20 mpg hwy/city. Just fyi. I have a thread about 22re mpgs and there are others with more. Just search. Take care
#17
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I'll be sure to try that tommorrow. Thanks and I would think I would be getting better gas mileage than that. I expected around 20 mpg. I know the PO had it rebuilt but IDK how long ago that was but I would think the motor would be able to get better than what it is getting all stock.
#18
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Hey Justin,
Couple things;
The mileage thing is apparently a HUGE variable.......
1. Some climates are more forgiving on sensors/motors/etc., etc.
2. Tires/lift/Gears/wind resistance, all plays a part
3. The biggest variable, "PEOPLE'S INDIVIDUAL TESTIMONY".... To be honest, those posts, above, from Kros, are seemingly rare, but I find the same thing("that's about average").... Yet SOME claim to get 18-24mpg on 31 to even 33's..... I'm not sure what the heck they're doing/how PERFECT their rig is running, ..and I'm not calling anyone a liar.... It's just that I've had 6 of these 22RE's, I've rebuilt several(to some degree or another, 2 of which were full rebuilds, bottom-up).... and I've NEVER had more than 21-22 on the highway, 15-17 in the city. Right now, I'm getting around 14/16city(depending on how many hills, etc.)-20-21hwy(Full rebuild, top end and bottom end, new cam, multiple new sensors, RC-Injectors serviced injectors, New IACV-TPS-02-CTS-Functioning AFM, Header, New CAT and Borla Exhaust, ........ but the thing is..... I LIVE ON NOTHING BUT HILLS! lol. I have to really get on the gas, every time, to get up the hills in a safe speed that I AM comfortable with..... This KILLS city mileage with these, PERIOD! Again, some say, "I stomp on mine all the time and I'm getting 23mpg all day long"......... I just don't know what to say....... I've read plenty of window stickers, I THINK they said, 17-20???
4. I got a bit more by shifting before 2500rpm, every gear, when I could.... But not enough that I will spend so much time thinking about it to save 5$ a week, ya feel me? lol.
Regarding your 'gremlins', ..... keep us updated, and go with the info you have thus far..... it's all good advice.
I would just add, that if you're going to do a proper adjustment of the TPS, remove the throttle body from the plenum and do it on a bench(I used a vice, it worked VERY well!). You only have to remove a couple coolant lines and plug them immediately after removal. (Otherwise, they will drain all over the place, quite often).
Far as the IACV(AAV)..... do the same by plugging the coolant lines.... and keep in mind... it's not often that "cleaning" the IACV works to repair it's issues. It's a valve that moves by coolant temp/expansion, and it's retained by a spring.... often this spring is just plain worn out. I ended up getting a new IACV from www.dealerdirectparts.com, and it was worth it, as I'd already tried swapping in 2 that looked to be ok/that I'd cleaned.... and it didn't work. The new one works great and pumps it up to 1200-1300RPM in the cold starts and drops down to 750rpm where it should, just like off the showroom floor(gotta love that.....And, even if it's a bit more costly?>>>> IT SAVES HOURS OF POSSIBLY WASTED TIME! .... Which I'd already done, hehehe).
PS> It's WEDNESDAY! Make sure you update us with the 'thoughts of J'Rocks Mechanic', hehehe.
I'd be glad to help you narrow it down when I have more time again. Please list all your findings, voltage/resistance, etc., ok?
Couple things;
The mileage thing is apparently a HUGE variable.......
1. Some climates are more forgiving on sensors/motors/etc., etc.
2. Tires/lift/Gears/wind resistance, all plays a part
3. The biggest variable, "PEOPLE'S INDIVIDUAL TESTIMONY".... To be honest, those posts, above, from Kros, are seemingly rare, but I find the same thing("that's about average").... Yet SOME claim to get 18-24mpg on 31 to even 33's..... I'm not sure what the heck they're doing/how PERFECT their rig is running, ..and I'm not calling anyone a liar.... It's just that I've had 6 of these 22RE's, I've rebuilt several(to some degree or another, 2 of which were full rebuilds, bottom-up).... and I've NEVER had more than 21-22 on the highway, 15-17 in the city. Right now, I'm getting around 14/16city(depending on how many hills, etc.)-20-21hwy(Full rebuild, top end and bottom end, new cam, multiple new sensors, RC-Injectors serviced injectors, New IACV-TPS-02-CTS-Functioning AFM, Header, New CAT and Borla Exhaust, ........ but the thing is..... I LIVE ON NOTHING BUT HILLS! lol. I have to really get on the gas, every time, to get up the hills in a safe speed that I AM comfortable with..... This KILLS city mileage with these, PERIOD! Again, some say, "I stomp on mine all the time and I'm getting 23mpg all day long"......... I just don't know what to say....... I've read plenty of window stickers, I THINK they said, 17-20???
4. I got a bit more by shifting before 2500rpm, every gear, when I could.... But not enough that I will spend so much time thinking about it to save 5$ a week, ya feel me? lol.
Regarding your 'gremlins', ..... keep us updated, and go with the info you have thus far..... it's all good advice.
I would just add, that if you're going to do a proper adjustment of the TPS, remove the throttle body from the plenum and do it on a bench(I used a vice, it worked VERY well!). You only have to remove a couple coolant lines and plug them immediately after removal. (Otherwise, they will drain all over the place, quite often).
Far as the IACV(AAV)..... do the same by plugging the coolant lines.... and keep in mind... it's not often that "cleaning" the IACV works to repair it's issues. It's a valve that moves by coolant temp/expansion, and it's retained by a spring.... often this spring is just plain worn out. I ended up getting a new IACV from www.dealerdirectparts.com, and it was worth it, as I'd already tried swapping in 2 that looked to be ok/that I'd cleaned.... and it didn't work. The new one works great and pumps it up to 1200-1300RPM in the cold starts and drops down to 750rpm where it should, just like off the showroom floor(gotta love that.....And, even if it's a bit more costly?>>>> IT SAVES HOURS OF POSSIBLY WASTED TIME! .... Which I'd already done, hehehe).
PS> It's WEDNESDAY! Make sure you update us with the 'thoughts of J'Rocks Mechanic', hehehe.
I'd be glad to help you narrow it down when I have more time again. Please list all your findings, voltage/resistance, etc., ok?
#20
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Thread Starter
Well me and dad tried to check the TPS while it was on the truck and the readings did not come out to spec, but since I know the mechanic I use very well and he has always shot straight with me plus taking my expertise into account, I decided to run it by him before I started to throw parts at it.
Well I had been noticing it kinda skipping or missing but I figured that it was just the TPS and didn't think much of it, but upon my mechanics inspection he believes that a valve is too tight or one is burnt. So he's supposed to check it out today and give me a call and I'll know for sure. I guess I'll just go from there.
Well I had been noticing it kinda skipping or missing but I figured that it was just the TPS and didn't think much of it, but upon my mechanics inspection he believes that a valve is too tight or one is burnt. So he's supposed to check it out today and give me a call and I'll know for sure. I guess I'll just go from there.