RBK

Hey y'all, I bought a used TPS on ebay (it's in great condition) with the part number 89452-20050. According to the Toyota dealership, the correct part number for my 88 Toyota Pickup 4X4 2.4L is 89452-28030. They say that 20050 will not work in my truck. Well the guy I bought it from off ebay has offered me a full refund no problem, but he says that the 20050 TPS will work in my truck and that it is an upgrade from 28030. He says that 28030 has metal connectors and that 20050 has plastic ones that were causing problems. I know he is in business to sell stuff, but he has offered a hassle free refund. Seems like he is trying to help and I don't think he's lying, but I wanted to run it by you guys first before I go to installing and adjusting and then nullify any chance of a refund. Will this TPS work in my truck?

Thanks and I hope all that made sense.

jgod

Interesting that the dealership told you that, because if you wanted to buy one that would be the one they sell you. The 20050 is the part that supercedes your existing tps. Since it's used I would test it per fsm before putting it on. But it's a compatible part.

RBK

Thanks jgod, to be honest it doesn't surprise me. I have yet to run into anybody at the dealership or at any of the parts store that has been able to help me in 5 years of owning this truck. I'm on again off again as far as working on it, but when I need to know something I come here.

Thanks man.

I don't have an fsm....anybody got any tips on testing it before I put it on. I understand the process after it is installed, but not before.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

it's easier to adjust it correctly with the intake/throttle body removed from the plenum. tps is adjusted using feeler gauges and a multimeter.

RBK

Throttle body is off and it is filthy. Got some feeler gauges and a multimeter. Plan on getting it cleaned up tomorrow and hopefully start testing. It has to be hooked up though right?

scope103

http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...34throttle.pdf

Don't go nuts with the exact resistances and size of the feeler gauge. The point is that the idle lead connects to ground with the TPS closed, and disconnects as soon as it opens. The feeler gauge is to give you a measurement of what "open" should be, and the resistance is just so you know that 2.3k ohms still counts as "connected."

What you SHOULD test is the VTA over the whole range. The absolute numbers aren't critical, but it needs to change smoothly as you open the throttle with NO flat spots.

RBK

Followed the advice on 4 crawler write up and then checked the VTA per scopes suggestion....seems like everything checked out well.. Just got to button her up this evening. May not get it done til tomorrow. Thank you all for the help

RBK

Running pretty good now. Got a little issue with idle, thinking I got air in the coolant system as I couldn't get all the fluid back in that I drained before the taking the throttle body off. Will try parking on a hill and let it run for a while tomorrow.