toyota rv 3vze headers!
03-22-2011, 10:09 PM
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toyota rv 3vze headers!
Hey guys!
I started installing NWOR headers on my toyota rv with a 3vze and ran into a few questions.
1) Has anybody used LC Engineering's 3vze exhaust manifold studs? I purchased these, but they look a bit cheap compared to the OEM ones. I know the LCE's are cheaper in price ($21 vs $70 from toyota!!) Or should I purchase NWOR studs?
2) I was able to test fit the driver side by removing anything that got in the way, but the driver side looks impossible physically. Any advice for tackling this?
Here are a few pictures of the rv and headers:
before
after
LCE studs
Test fit!
I started installing NWOR headers on my toyota rv with a 3vze and ran into a few questions.
1) Has anybody used LC Engineering's 3vze exhaust manifold studs? I purchased these, but they look a bit cheap compared to the OEM ones. I know the LCE's are cheaper in price ($21 vs $70 from toyota!!) Or should I purchase NWOR studs?
2) I was able to test fit the driver side by removing anything that got in the way, but the driver side looks impossible physically. Any advice for tackling this?
Here are a few pictures of the rv and headers:
before
after
LCE studs
Test fit!
03-22-2011, 10:13 PM
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Lol Good luck, is all I can say. It took me 2 days to put mine in, and it took hours of fiddling/scratching up the pipe just to get it installed. Also, Those studs will work. they're much cheaper than buying OEM ones. theyre like 3 bucks a pop, not including bolts.
Also, the easiest way to do the passenger side is to remove all the vacuum hoses, label them, and reinstall after the installation of the header.
Good luck
Also, the easiest way to do the passenger side is to remove all the vacuum hoses, label them, and reinstall after the installation of the header.
Good luck
03-22-2011, 10:24 PM
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Lol Good luck, is all I can say. It took me 2 days to put mine in, and it took hours of fiddling/scratching up the pipe just to get it installed. Also, Those studs will work. they're much cheaper than buying OEM ones. theyre like 3 bucks a pop, not including bolts.
Also, the easiest way to do the passenger side is to remove all the vacuum hoses, label them, and reinstall after the installation of the header.
Good luck
Also, the easiest way to do the passenger side is to remove all the vacuum hoses, label them, and reinstall after the installation of the header.
Good luck
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03-24-2011, 10:41 PM
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The headers were stainless steel so I knew they could be restored. I used 2" and 3" sanding discs. I started with 240 grit and went to 1500 grit. It took a long time, but it came out nice. I think I'm going to wrap the entire driver side with header wrap. Everything is so tight on that side. Oh well at least I know how to restore ss 
03-27-2011, 10:08 AM
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Hmmm... I have ceramic ones. Probably no way of restoring that, huh?
And is that a crack in the header? Im unsure of what im looking at. At first I thought it hung lower than the frame rail lol
And is that a crack in the header? Im unsure of what im looking at. At first I thought it hung lower than the frame rail lol
03-27-2011, 10:56 AM
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OMG are the torsion bars located on the LCA on that? I never looked at the 2wd suspension before.
Before you start cutting and welding let me warn you about welding SS, it needs to have back shielding or it gets brittle. To back shield a pipe fill the inside with an inert gas like argon.
If it were me I'd sell the headers to cut my losses and go back to the stock manifolds. If its the stock cross-over you want to eliminate build a custom cross-over. Something like this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/
Before you start cutting and welding let me warn you about welding SS, it needs to have back shielding or it gets brittle. To back shield a pipe fill the inside with an inert gas like argon.
If it were me I'd sell the headers to cut my losses and go back to the stock manifolds. If its the stock cross-over you want to eliminate build a custom cross-over. Something like this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-27-2011 at 11:33 AM.
03-27-2011, 05:07 PM
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OMG are the torsion bars located on the LCA on that? I never looked at the 2wd suspension before.
Before you start cutting and welding let me warn you about welding SS, it needs to have back shielding or it gets brittle. To back shield a pipe fill the inside with an inert gas like argon.
If it were me I'd sell the headers to cut my losses and go back to the stock manifolds. If its the stock cross-over you want to eliminate build a custom cross-over. Something like this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/
Before you start cutting and welding let me warn you about welding SS, it needs to have back shielding or it gets brittle. To back shield a pipe fill the inside with an inert gas like argon.
If it were me I'd sell the headers to cut my losses and go back to the stock manifolds. If its the stock cross-over you want to eliminate build a custom cross-over. Something like this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/
We were contemplating on what to do next and we decided cut the passenger side headers and rewelded them. We also dented one of the tubes just enough to clear the torsion bar. We did not use argon to purge the headers, but we'll see what happens.
Thinking about making a jig out of these headers and starting over later on.
Thanks for the advice!
The driver side headers are also in the way of the torsion bar and blocking the shifting rod. This project has become very tiring, but I don't want to give up.
03-27-2011, 05:08 PM
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No crack... the headers come right where the torsion bars are located.
03-28-2011, 10:05 AM
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03-28-2011, 10:23 AM
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LCE sells several headers for the 4cyl 2wd trucks, each 22R header (most of their header listings say what application for other motors too) listed is marked as 2wd or 4wd. Apparently they don't do it for the 3VZ, their page doesn't even state 4wd only or anything like that.
Last edited by Magnusian; 03-28-2011 at 10:25 AM.
03-28-2011, 06:36 PM
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Keep in mind the engine moves/rotates quite a bit while driving, so the headers will too. To check clearance put it in reverse and drive with the brake on and apply some throttle. That will torque it up both directions. Have someone watch the headers move, but don't run over them
03-28-2011, 06:59 PM
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04-28-2011, 12:24 PM
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Looks like I'm throwing in the towel. I just don't have the skills or the correct tools to tackle this job at this time.
I still need a little uhmmff.. so I was researching on how to block of the EGR. I was about to put in the 10k resistor when I found I don't have an EGR temp sensor.
Would it be located somewhere else?
I still need a little uhmmff.. so I was researching on how to block of the EGR. I was about to put in the 10k resistor when I found I don't have an EGR temp sensor.
Would it be located somewhere else?
