Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

Hello all,
I've been cruising my local Pick and Pull almost every week since I was enlightened to it's existence (october-ish 08). I've been consistently looking for a set of stock toyota 4.88 diffs (gear code G144).
After months of searching, I finally found a set as advertized in a V6, 4Runner, auto with 31" tires. The 31's were still on there, lock lug nuts on all of them.
The rear was stuck good on a stud, took the better part of an hour and a half to haul it out. The front took me all of a half hour. It all looks good, but I'll get a second opinion from a shop to check it over.
My truck has the 4 cyl axles. I've heard that the rear axle housing needs to be modified to the 4.88 in there. Has anyone ever swapped in a toyota 4.88 into a 4 cyl? Are there any modifications required to instal it?
This is motivation to buy some new 33's.
So much for keeping this thing a mini truck.

Matt16

NO mods needed. You need to mod if you want to install an e-locker, but not factory 4.88s. You may need a different pinion flange onyour diff, but no other mods needed.

tc

x2 for Matt. The differences are in the thirdmember, not in the axle housing itself.

You might want to consider keeping your old diffs, as when you want to go to bigger than 33's and need 5.29 or 5.71 or if you were to grenade your diff, your rear 4.88 diff is not regearable.

g_cali

Shouldn't need any mods, just pop in the v6 third member

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

good job on the sweet find.

spend another $250 and get a LockRight while you have the rear diff out.

x2 on keeping at least your original 3rd, good to have just in case. if you tried to sell it you're not getting much for it anyways.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I've got my original 4.10's sitting my greenhouse/shed in my backyard. I got a local dude (874RunnerSR5) that I'm gonna sell my 4.56's. He's running 32" KM2's on 4.10's, so he could use the extra torque.
I'm definitely thinking of getting a lockright or an Aussie locker. I don't plan on going for any larger tires than 33" tires so no more re-gearing after this.
That's the current plan anyways. We'll see if a 4" lift falls underneath my truck or not later.

camo31_10.50

im going to be looking for some 4.88's too whenever i get a job.lol (thanks for the gear code..i had forgotten it..lmao)..

unless i plan on going to 33x12.50's im gonna steer away from a bracket lift..(unless i find one dirt cheap...lol) im gonna get some 33x10.50's like KM2's or something..BJ spacers up front..ome leaves out back..might go 2in body lift..(will help for when i do the swap to a 4.3)..

of course if i get another vehicle..(and keep the yota) im gonna do a 6in bracket lift..3" body lift..4.3 swap..and some 37's..(yes i know IFS and anything over a 35= ) but there is a few guys on here running that setup and are just fine..so yea.

of course the wish list is forever long..sorry for the hi jack.lol

874runnersr5

yaya

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

So I'm || close to order a locker. It's still up in the air, Aussie or Lock-Right or wait till spring.
I'm getting my sis to bring me some goodies up from State-side in a week, I'd like to get her to bring me a locker back to go around paying tax and duties. It sounds like Aussie would be out of the question due to their slow shipping.
I still haven't read any reviews about any auto locker in the snow. Everyone just sort of skims over that topic. Up here in Canada, winter is really long and we get plenty of snow.
I do not want my truck to be like a deer on ice this winter if I toss a locker in there. Does anyone have any first hand experience that they could tell me about driving an auto-locker in packing snowy / icy streets?

Matt16

click on *aussie locker* in my sig... there's probably a good hour of reading there basically on how lockers handle on every surface imaginable. I'd give up on Aussie for a V6 locker. They've been saying it'll be out next month since 2003 or something stupid.

basically, they're fine if you have decent tires and put it in 4wd whenever it starts to get dicey (ie: bad off camber). I prefer driving rear-locked most of the time compared to open/open in the road snow.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I forgot about that whole V6 diff + Aussie locker = beard growing.

I'll be getting a new set of shoes for my truck once I get the 4.88's in. Contemplating between 33" BFG A/T or BFG KM2's. If I went with the A/T's I think I'd want the wider 33x12.5x15 and if I went with the KM2, I'd go with the 33x 10.5x15.
And before I do that, I want to put a locker in it.
So it looks like it's LockRight.

Shifting into 4wd (A.D.D) in anything above 2nd gear is impossible. It just doesn't go.
I think that I will try to spend more time learning to improve my winter driving technique. I'm gonna ditch the topper and just go with sandbags this winter.

g_cali

Don't get A/T's their traction is horrible

peow130

Uhhhh
What are you smoking?
i have pictures of my truck on A/T's that made it through a mudhole that lifted chevies on M/T's couldnt get through without a winch.
A/T's are great, they don't wear as fast on the street, and you get adequate traction offroad...

Team420

In my p/u, If I have some weight in the back... It's not too bad on ice and snow, it does tend to "kick"out a bit more, but fairly manageable. If it gets bad, just put in 4x4 and forget about it.

g_cali

Im just sayin ive had both and bfg A/T's don't even come close to mudders when it comes to traction in mud and sand... i dunno about snow though an thats what he's talkin about

peow130

M/T's have nowhere near the same traction in snow as A/T's.
They don't throw the snow out as well.
And, like i said, M/T's aren't the best tire you can get.