pwags

Does anyone have some good pics or vids on how to make sure the timing on a Toyota 3vze is correct when replacing the timing belt? I've been lead to believe that you line everything up according to the indicator lines on the new belt. Is this correct? If not where are all the correct markings on the pulleys and block?
Thanks in advance for any info.

Fraser

RTFM. Pay less attention to the marks on the belt, and more to the marks on the pulleys. It's not rocket science and there are a million write ups and even the cheapo shop manuals detail the procedure sufficiently. Good luck.

scope103

You start and end with the manual. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf Videos could be useful, but if they don't follow the procedure in the manual they are very suspect, so why take the chance?

Not all timing belts come with marks (though you can mark the old belt and transfer the marks to the new belt if you think that will help.) But if you turn the crank two turns, the pulley marks will line up again but the marks on the belt will NOT. There is a reason for this.

wrenchmonster

Manuals are good here, but there are clear marks on all the pulleys. The one on the crank is easy to see, the marks on the cam gears themselves are easy, but on the backing plate (behind the cam gears) the marks are more like dents rather than lines. Once you remove the belt the cams will want to roll over, so you'll probably have to rotate one or both of the cams to get it back in the correct position. Seems if I remember correctly the right cam (or the one on the left as you are facing the engine) will want to roll over.

Some general tips/tricks for any belt on any engine... If the old belt is still on, make your own marks and you can count teeth, make the same marks on your new belt. Also, using binder clips can help hold the belt on the cam gears while you get everything lined up.

jb451

Welcome to YT!!

The short end of it-

Unhook battery
take off radiator shroud, and fan assembly
drain coolant
remove radiator
take off all drive belts.
take off all timing covers
set engine to TDC!!
remove crank pulley
slip belt off, replace tensioner and idler pulley as well, slip on new belt.
installation is the reverse!

Its really quite simple, just time consuming. The hash marks are what you need to line up. Once you rotate the engine twice, the paint marks will not line up.
here ya go- http://www.instructables.com/id/1994...lt-Replacment/

Good luck!!

scope103

Geez, they let anyone post on Instructables. "Pep Cock"?

The best part is his very clear instruction to re-install the crank-bolt and torque to 25 ft-lbs (the correct value is 181 ft-lbs). He even gives the wrench size (19mm, which is correct). This is probably the most interesting part of the whole job, as you have to fabricate a tool (or use some other, more exciting, method) to hold the crank from turning. So it seems likely that he really did torque it to only 25 ft-lbs and some day soon he'll throw the harmonic balancer through his radiator.

Toyota writes the manual; they know what they're doing. Don't pay any attention to Instructables (heck, don't pay any attention to me!) until you've pretty-much memorized the manual.

jb451

It wasnt meant to be taken word for word, just to give OP a general idea on how things should progress, since everyone's answer is just "read the manual".

jb451

whoops. double post.

Redeyejedi

great writeup and added infos!!


is this a decent kit?
are you guys getting parts individually?

scope103

Note that kit has the water bypass, and the hydraulic tensioner. I don't know what you need (mine did not have the bypass, and did have the hydraulic tensioner). I don't know anything about TBK. I will say that I have had good luck with RockAuto (who has several kits as well as individual parts.)

You SHOULD replace the water pump; there's no good way to test the shaft seal so just do it. You "probably" don't need to replace the upper pulley, tensioner pulley, or the actuator (there is a test procedure for each of these; e.g., if you can feel anything when you turn the pulleys, replace them). But I hate to even say that; for the extra $150 or so you are buying real peace of mind.

jb451

Redeye, X2 on Rock Auto, you can get a lot of OEM quality parts for cheaper than amazon! And i agree with scope, if you're gonna go that far, just replace all of it. If you have to go back in a second time for say the idler, 75% still has to come off to change it out, so keep that in mind.

Also, mine is a 90', and had the water bypass and a spring actuated tensioner. I know sometime between 92 and 93 it switched to a hydraulic tensioner, so be aware of that like scope was saying. The water bypass is pretty easy to see if you have it or not.

Just_ Rollin'

I just bought a whole bunch of parts on ebay, all OEM Toyota. BTW, the OEM Toyota belt should have the markings on it that you need. There is a kit on ebay with all oem parts but its priced about $200 more than you would pay to get them each individually. I spent about 300 for all the timing belt parts and valve cover/plenum gaskets, sparkplugs, air filter, etc. and it was all OEM.

Nestos4runner93

The markings on the pulleys and block should have paint on the notches. Line those up using the crankshaft to be top dead center (TDC). Should be pointing at twelve o'clock. Then I would start the belt from the crankshaft and work counter clockwise all the way up saving the tensioner for last. Make sure you use a vise to compress the tensioner and use a small Allen wrench to hold the tensioner at max compression before placing the belt on.

Just_ Rollin'

If I am using a new hydraulic tensioner are these things important?


I see the FSM is calling for "seal packing" on the valve covers around the cam shaft seals. Anyone have a picture of this? The FSM picture is a bit vague.

Here is a bit of an answer to my own question, posted for reference: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-cover-248752/

scope103

You can't assemble the hydraulic tensioner unless it is retracted. I don't know if "new" tensioners are shipped retracted (with a keeper, that would be the equivalent of the hex wrench suggested by the manual). I doubt it, though.

So, yes, all of that is important whether you are reusing parts or using new.

KHoff

Reviving an old thread because I'm having some issues, and could use some of y'all's expertise.

I'm working on my dads 3vze 3.0 5 speed. This is the third time that I've gone back in there because the timing is off. The last time the TB and WP were done were at a toyota dealership by the previous/original owner ~13 years ago.

I think my problem may occur with the passenger side cam, when I set it TDC it does not per say want to be there, either I have to carefully turn it forward or back from one its resting positions. the cam only wants to be at like the 2,6, and 10 o'clock positions. When I pulled the #1 plug I feel the stroke at the 10 o'clock position. When I began the project and originally pulled the belt, it the passenger cam was at 10 o'clock while the other cam and crank were TDC.

Each of the previous two times I set everything TDC and both times it has ran terrible and when I pull it back down everything is advanced far. You can see this in the picture. I've read so many threads from here, pirate, t4r, and marlin and no one else seems to have this problem.

Should I set the passenger cam at the position it blows air out (10 O'clock) and try that? Let me hear what you guys think.....

EDIT: I should also note that when I take the belt off from the position everything is at in the picture, the pass cam will either return to its 10 or 2 o'clock position and the driver cam goes back to TDC.

Tville yota

Get it in TDC take the distributor cap off. Wait for the rotor button inside to be pointing where the #1 spark plug wire would be its right before the electrical wiring going in to your distributor. Rotate your engine around till this lines up. It's all that matters what manual says. Then make sure your cam marks line up when you remove the timing cover. Marks on cams should be easy to see. Rotor button pointing #1 spark plug this all lines up.

scope103

Don't worry about the distributor; just leave it alone. I think what Tville is worrying about is that the crank turns twice for each one of the cam/distributor, so you can have the crank at TDC with the cam marks pointing straight down. So don't look at the crank; turn the crank until the cam marks point up.

Don't worry about where the cam "rests" with the belt off. Just use a wrench to turn the cam a bit to be sure the mark is up when you line up the belt-teeth. Then, once you've got the tensioner back on, turn the crank two turns to be sure the cam marks are STILL pointing up.

Most timing belts have marks on them to make this job a little simpler. Just remember that if you turn the crank enough times to bring the marks around, they WON'T line up anymore. That's okay; all you want is for the crank to be at TDC when both cams point up.

Andy A

Sorry to revive this thread, but I remember when I first saw the picture that is 2 posts above I thought something was off. Isn't one of the cam sprocket/timing belt sprockets on backwards? Thought the lip on one was supposed to face out and the other to face towards the metal plate. This keeps the timing belt from walking off the sprockets or does it matter?


Cheers
Andy

scope103

Andy A is correct; the LH (Driver's) cam sprocket is supposed to be flange out.
http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...67timingbe.pdf
(Step 7 of installation.)

Follow the manual!

For what it's worth, the two sprockets are otherwise identical, so if you one is damaged (getting pushed too hard into the knock pin, for instance), you can often avoid the damaged aspect by switching the sprockets left to right.