Inferno451

K, so here's the deal- I picked up a couple 4runners a few weeks ago, one running, one a parts truck, an 87' and an 89', respectively. The engine in the 87, which had around 160k on it, had developed a knock, the the PO swapped in the engine from the 89', which had about 250k on it. I had my oil changed at jiffy lube ( I know, i know, it was an experiment and i had a coupon) and those idiots left my filter loose. The oil light apparently doesnt work, and so when i checked my dipstick today it was bone dry, ended up being at least 3 quarts low. It was blowing some white smoke today, that's why i checked it. White smoke all of a sudden makes me think blowby or valve stem seals, something cause by lack of oil, something requiring the engine to come out. This engine, like i said, has lots of miles and has some problems. Stripped out spark plug hole (PO just put in a bigger spark plug ), 4 stipped exhaust manifold holes, and leaks oil from a bad timing chain job. However, it runs well, and idles great. I now am presented with several options. Option 1- if the bottom end is still good, i rebuild the head on the other engine and pop it on, replacing the timing chain cover gasket while i'm in there, problem solved. Option 2- completely rebuild the lower mileage engine and pop it in. Problem even more solved. The only hitches are that i'm a poor college student and every penny counts, that i don't have an engine stand or hoist and don't really feel like buying them just to use once, and that i've never done an engine rebuild or taken an engine out before. I'm very, very mechanically inclined and would love to learn engine rebuilding, but i've heard the 22re lower ends are pretty stout. What would you guys recommend? I'm planning on owning this thing until I die, but all parts have to go away in a month an a half when i leave the state to go back to school, so rebuilding isn't really an option after that. What would be the minimum cost for a rebuild if i did everything but machining myself? I'm seeing engnbldr's kits on ebay for around $300. Please, if you have experience with this, i would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Do it right the first time, you'll be glad you did. In the long run, it'll save you money too. I spent $775 at the machine shop, including the engine kit, as well as polished crank, resurfaced flywheel, bored block, magnaflux, cleaning, and fully balancing the assembly. I didn't have any head work done, as I bought a Street RV head from EB ($536). You could do all that to yours, minus the balancing and the performance head for well under a grand. Do keep in mind, that unexpected expenses will find their way into your pocket book inevitably. For instance, I spent roughly $1800 on my build after buying all the little studs and nuts, coolant, oil, filters, motor mounts, harmonic balancer, and on, and on. Good luck with your project.

Inferno451

Man, that sounds AWESOME and i'd love to do that, but cash is REALLY hard to come by as an intern trying to pay for next semester's tuition, especially not having budgeted to rebuild an engine. Doing everything but the machining myself, what kind of rebuild would i be able to do for around $500 max?

yotarover

if it helps any. im into my rebuild by:

new block- 2xx
machine work- 150
rebuild kit-219
new crank kit-180

need a new head- 448 for eb's street rv head or stock 338 i think.

misc bolts to replace- ?

you have all those extra parts sell'em if you dont need them. 1200 could prob get your engine rebuilt (parts wise if you did it your self and all new parts)

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

Put an ad on Craigslist saying you have $300 and want a running 22r/re.

I'm sure someone will give you money for your rebuildable motors.

That would give you an opportunity to check things like the timing cover, check and fix leaks, and still have some cash to spare. You can rent an engine hoist, I hear they aren't expensive.

brotherinbluejeans

open up the bottom end of the '87 motor and check out the rod bearings. good chance that's the problem (if the PO ran it low on oil) .. if so then you can replace all the rod bearings/ main bearings of the bottom end for like $60 and switch that motor back in.

this way you can start workign on the motor that's OUT of the 4runner and worry about the swap once you have a running piece... 2. you'll be better off using the engine with the lower miles instead of dealing with all the little issues of the high milage motor... save the one with high miles for soemtiem in the future when you have a couple grand laying around to do a high performance build and have the experience from this first motor under your belt.

my2cents.

Inferno451

This forum is awesome. I can't tell you HOW much time i've spend on here researching and just browsing, such great, knowledgeable people. I think i'll put the lower mileage motor on a stand and start cranking away at it. With only 150k on it, what kind of machining am i going to need to have done on it? Obviously i'll just have to look at it when i get it apart, but i'm just trying to get some idea of what it's going to take. For example, reusing pistons, boring/honing at maching shop vs. honing with a power drill, etc. If i rebuild it i have a month to have it rebuilt and IN the truck, max budget probably $600. Does this sound realistic at all? By the way, i'm not even sure the motor i have is blown, if anyone has any advice on this, i'd really appreciate it. Basically what's going on is the engine is high mileage but runs great. Recently replaced cap, rotor, air filter, changed oil, plugs, general maintenance, etc. It blows smoke that looks white in my rear view mirror, but doesnt smell sweet. Smokes especially when hitting the gas after having decelerated. Doesnt smoke at idle and no giant clouds, but enough that cars behind me usually switch lanes. Compression is good, idles and runs great. Coolant level staying right where it is. No mixing of fluids. I disconnected the pcv and crankcase breather hoses from the intake manifold and zip tied rags over them to measure possible blowby. Drove around all day and no oil on rags. Reconnected hoses. Replaced pcv anyway. Coolant not leaking from iac. It started smoking a few days after i ran some seafoam through the crankcase and changed the oil, which the previous owner apparently didnt find very important. I'm thinking intake side valve stem seals. My theory is that there was gunk around the stem seals keeping the seal somewhat closed, and the seafoam and oil change dissolved it. Under high vacuum like you would find during engine braking, it's sucking oil in through the seals, and when i get back on the gas it's burning it all off. Does that sound plausible or am i overcomplicating things and my motor is just shot? This engine has been pretty badly neglected, could valves way out of adjustment or timing way off cause smoke too?

brotherinbluejeans

open it up and pop the caps off the bottom end first. hopefully you'll find the guilty bearing right off. depending on how long it was ran with the knock it could have hurt some other stuff: check the crank for any burrs/scoring (if so then have a machinist turn the crank, about $100), check the rings (wouldn't hurt to replace them) and piston/cylinder. a micrometer would be good or have the machinist check them. be sure to use plastiguage and a good torque-wrench... add a few new seals and possibly a timing chain if it looks worn its a good time to do it.
barring disasters it shouldn't be hard to get that engine up to 90% for a around $200-400 but that extra last 10% will take a full grand.. just depends on what you want.

--of course this is all just surmisings until you open it up and see what's in there.
good luck

Inferno451

That sounds like solid advice. Engine stands are on sale for $30 at harbor freight and i've always wanted to open up an engine anyways. I'll post up what i find. Thanks!