Torsion nut stuck!
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Torsion nut stuck!
Currently installing a ball joint spacer lift and i need to de-crank the bars. This is so the upper a-arm can move up a little, so i can trim the a-arm and fit the spacer in it. Well the lock nut on the top torsion bolt is pretty frozen on there. I sprayed it good with wd40 for like a week and nothing. So what do you all suggest? Take a torch to the nut till its red then try from there? It's an 88' p/u.
#2
Registered User
heh: heat "might" work. Dreading this next week on mine as I am gonna have to most likely crank on mine. I picked up new hardware for it. Just in case you do too.
check this tread out: because there is one major discrpency on one of the few resources for cranking on these torsions and it's probably a $15 typo if you order the wrong parts and take the part numbers on that article to heart.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...+adjuster+bolt
check this tread out: because there is one major discrpency on one of the few resources for cranking on these torsions and it's probably a $15 typo if you order the wrong parts and take the part numbers on that article to heart.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...+adjuster+bolt
#3
Contributing Member
75% of the time, they're going to be so seized up that you're better off getting new bolts and nuts from the dealer before you even start, because the only way they're coming off is in pieces...
been there before...
been there before...
#5
Contributing Member
#6
Registered User
now I am really glad I got that new hardware. I just didn't order new seats. Just the nuts and bolts.
iamsuperbleeder did you get a chance to read that other thread? can you confirm my assumption on ordering qty of those bolts?
iamsuperbleeder did you get a chance to read that other thread? can you confirm my assumption on ordering qty of those bolts?
#7
Contributing Member
I keep mine totally coated with grease, not just the threads, all the surfaces. There is a lot of steel against steel rubbing when you adjust those and getting all the mating surfaces lubed up makes adjusting them much easier and eliminates any galling.
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#8
Registered User
hah yeah and galling is multiplied by 100 here in PA, and if iamsuperbleeder had to break his to get them to move in FL, I can only imagine what I am gonna be facing. lol.
#10
Contributing Member
but that may just depend on the dealer and their parts department
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, tomorrow I should be heating the nut some, and borrow a breaker bar to loosen the torsion. I'll report back to let you all know how it went.
#12
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Currently installing a ball joint spacer lift and i need to de-crank the bars. This is so the upper a-arm can move up a little, so i can trim the a-arm and fit the spacer in it. Well the lock nut on the top torsion bolt is pretty frozen on there. I sprayed it good with wd40 for like a week and nothing. So what do you all suggest? Take a torch to the nut till its red then try from there? It's an 88' p/u.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update. Yep they both broke. Spacers are in now, but i still have to wait until the bolts/nuts arrive. Parts guy said by Tuesday. Damn!! Ordered 2 of each. Bolts, long nut, short nut and that moon seat deal. Anything else needed?
Last edited by Rob_A; 03-17-2011 at 02:17 PM.
#15
Registered User
rob, nope that would be it. I didn't order seats for mine as I am expecting the seats to come loose as they aren't or at least shouldn't e screwed onto the bolts. What did it take to break them?
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Wrench on the nuts with 3ft cheater pipe wedge to the frame, and an impact socket. So once i get the replacement hardware. How do i install it? Is it just as easy as sticking the bolt through the bottom and secure it with the two nut on the top?
#17
Registered User
heh, I have no idea, but it seems like it. Don't forget about the way the seats go in too. Not sure but I think there is two different seats. One on the top and one on the bottom of the torsion bar itself.
#18
Registered User
^ This^
WD40 was designed to remove moisture (Water Displacement - 40th formula)
It was never designed as a lubricant or penetrating oil.
PB Blaster is the stuff.
Ive never used wax but I typically heat stuck bolts and then hit it with PB, which as the metal cools it will draw in the PB.
Do this two times in a row for nasty stuff.
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
^ This^
WD40 was designed to remove moisture (Water Displacement - 40th formula)
It was never designed as a lubricant or penetrating oil.
PB Blaster is the stuff.
Ive never used wax but I typically heat stuck bolts and then hit it with PB, which as the metal cools it will draw in the PB.
Do this two times in a row for nasty stuff.
WD40 was designed to remove moisture (Water Displacement - 40th formula)
It was never designed as a lubricant or penetrating oil.
PB Blaster is the stuff.
Ive never used wax but I typically heat stuck bolts and then hit it with PB, which as the metal cools it will draw in the PB.
Do this two times in a row for nasty stuff.
Last edited by Rob_A; 03-22-2011 at 06:48 PM.