ShakeZulla

Hey guys, names Jared. Working on replacing my head gasket on my '94 22re and I have gotten to the timing sprocket removal. First of all the bolt and the distributor gear came off no problem with cylinder 1 at TDC, however, the sprocket itself is not wanting to budge. I hear a little play in it when I rock it back and forth with my hands but it doesn't want to go. Thought I would see if anyone has any tricks or if I am ok to gently wedge something behind it to help is along. Also I understand that you should take the sprocket off the chain (I already marked a timing mark on the sprocket and chain) but is there a trick to doing this while keeping everything tight and not loosing any timing on the bottom end. I assume there isn't a guard holding the chain on the bottom of the crank sprocket? Thanks for the help peeps and here are some pics...

toyota4x4907

First, is that a double row timing chain?

Second, you need to turn the crank more so the notch/dowel is at "11-12 o'clock" and the dizzy cap then should be pointed more towards the "10 o'clock position. Looks like you have it set to TDC on the number 1 exhaust stroke. You want it on the compression stroke. Both the rockers should be loose when its on the compression stroke.

Taking the sprocket off- Take a hold with both hands, one on each side, and kind of wiggle its back and forth while pulling towards you. A little bit of twisting (as if it were going around while in normal operation) can help, too.

Your sprocket looks aftermarket (also, dual chain?). If it were factory, or similar, you could just zip-tie the chain on to the sprocket through one of the holes in the face. But, once you get the sprocket off, zip-tie or wire the chain to the sprocket using the center hole. You CAN take the chain off, but you might not get it lined up correctly and be a tooth or two off when trying to re-time it. The bottom of the chain will stay on the crank sprocket as long as you keep the chain from falling completely down.

abecedarian

Take a long, hefty, flat screwdriver and put it in from the side, maybe the exhaust / distributor side, so the tip contacts the bottom of the sprocket then, while putting pressure on the screwdriver to push the bottom of the sprocket towards the front, tap on the top of the sprocket with a rubber mallet.

peow130

whack it with a wood or rubber mallet. that is, if you're replacing the tchain and gears like you should be.

ShakeZulla

First... Not a double chain, I can't seem to get my camera to take good photos of the engine.

Yeah thanks guys, actually used the long screw driver. Mostly didn't want to start prying and end up needing a puller or something stupid. As for the new chain and sprocket comment... ok just looked for a "shhh" smile and there is way too many smiles. Anyhow I need it to run for 6 months until I rebuild the whole motor for boost. So here I am...



and this is what I wore cause it was 30 and dropping when I started in my drive way...

abecedarian

Ninja automotive worker?

drew303

you already got it off, but just for future reference, your dizzy was not TDC, Sure the #1 piston is at top, but your on the end of the exhaust stroke, so once u get this baby back together, youre going to need to either put that dizzy back in exactly like it is in the first picture or you'll never get it to fire.

Otherwise get it back together, keep the dizzy out and do a full cycle of the crank to bring that piston back around to TDC on the compression stroke, then u can put the dizzy back in around the 10-11 clock position.

Take a look at this,you can see how your timing chain is in a different position (take not of the notch on the inside of the sprocket in comparison to yours which is at the bottom)



^^^ this motor is at true TDC, #1 is about at the top of compression.

drew303

also, it looks like your driver side timing chain guide is snapped off at the top of the block, you got more work to do IMO

ShakeZulla

Noticed that after I took the valve cover off, hasn't been an issue since it was running fine before I tore her down (minus the oil in coolant res). I am going to leave it for the short 6 months until I rebuild...

Status new gasket on, head on, set to TDC of cylinder 1, next is timing that sob again (been a while since I have worked on a distributor car and I pulled the distributor out without putting any timing marks on it... )

abecedarian

IF the crank is at TDC for #1, and the cam and chain are indexed correctly, all you need to do is put the distributor in the head with the rotor pointing up at 12 o'clock, or perpindicular (at a right angle) to the cam/head/block if you prefer. When the distributor goes in, the rotor should rotate counter-clockwise and end up at about 11 o'clock, and you should have around 50/50 space around the bolt / adjuster that secures the distributor to the head.

Should be mostly okay after that. But you won't really be able to adjust the timing and idle properly until after you get the engine warmed up and the t-stat has opened a few times.

peow130

It's like.. 50 dollars for the new tchain, and gears..
It'll be 2 months before you're back in the motor spending MORE money to do the same thing TWICE.
You'll be pulling the head, the pan, stripping the front of the block, and buying all new gaskets again.
Fix it right, fix it once.

ShakeZulla

Well the truck runs! And quite well I might add... Except for the part where I forgot to hook up the fuel return line. So I will find that tomorrow and run it for a bit then change the oil again. Is there a common place where it would fall? I didn't crawl under and look but I couldn't quite find it from on top. Maybe with some day light tomorrow I will see it. Thanks for the help though guys.